Engine oil

[AKrider]

Back when I bought a 2001 Kawasaki Mojave four wheeler I found the owner's manual had not been updated to 2001 specs. Because the quad originally came out as an early release 1986 model and had no updates throughout its production, they kept the same antiquated oil rating in the manual. I don't recall what it was off the top of my head but it was API SD or something and we are now into API SG, I believe.

Anyway my point is, oils will continue to progress and I'd really be surprised if Yamaha did not recommend the latest, most advanced type of oil.

 

[Oak Hill]

We could debate the oil topic until the end of time. Synthectic oils are the only way to go today with modern high reving engines and higher temps. As far as a 4 stroke synthectic vs a regular automotive synthectic, I believe is snake oil advertising. I run Mobil 1 in every thing I own (Truck, snowblower, lawn mowers and my sleds) and no issues. Its a tough market out there selling oils and product these days and every one wants you to buy thier products because they are the best. Bottom line is this, you cannot go wrong running any snythectic oil out on the market today, it is far supoerior than any Dino oil products for todays high rpm engines that run very hot compared to the old iron of years past. Just my 2 cents!

 

[MadMax]

All this oil talk cracks me up....................... I went to a snow show.. Bought a case of 12 liters yammie lube.. 0-30w semi-syn. Paid $4700 for it... It will last 4 years of riding... And it runs great in my sled.. And no second guessing about if yammie will fix it if it breaks down from a oil related problem. :ORC MM.

 

[mbw919]

Bought a case of 12 liters yammie lube.. 0-30w semi-syn. Paid $4700 for it

At $391.67 per liter, it's only slightly more expensive that Klotz!

 

[MadMax]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm..My finger mustu zigged when it should have zagged. Try $47.00.. Try $3.91 per liter.............MM.

 

[kyzer]

At that price I would buy Yammie lube too, but where i am I pay almost $9 a litre, so for another doller more I will go with Amisol..........

 

[PAMikeC]

Guys,

Actually a letter to Yamaha would be smart on this SD vs SF issue. Oils are very different and there are a lot of tradeoffs. For instance a 0W-40 has tons of additives, which although allow a 0 weight to act like a 40 weight , but it can produce a build up of other residues. Now to check if Yamalube is really only SD and then I would be convinced because it would be easier for them to have an oil packaged with a higher (SF) rating since that is what cars are using and is hence likely cheaper to produce.

Although I'm sold on synthetics mostly from an oil change interval point of view there is a lot about oils that can make a significant difference.

Here is another case in point. The new '07 Diesels require a CJ-4 plus rating where as the '06 require a CI-4 plus due to changes in the EGR . Here is the funny thing though--- find me a synthetic that has a greater then 5W rating. You can't and that means there is another tradeoff.

Hope I didn't ramble too much but just had to try and give some heads up on oils.

Mike C

 

[gsxr]

YAMAHA says " do not use synthetic oil , because of the friction modifiers will allow the starter clutch to slip "

I am an Amsoil dist , called the tech line 715 392 7101 and ( call if you want )

amsoil ow40 has no friction modifiers , we have used it since 2003 rx1 days , up til today in 2007 apex's " no problems "

I don't know if the other synthetics have that additive or not !!

 

[JohnWI]

Just after rationalizing the full Syn oil scenario for my JetSki, now I see that one link for the Yami site where it kind of makes sense about the lower rated oils. I kept thinking the engineers blundered when they recommend the older oils as there's no clutch in a JetSki. But I can see their point if it's about the starters.

Still like the Amsoil, though!