Engine oil

[Groomerdriver]

The deal here is not really if its syntetic or not... it is:
1- do not go above API SF
2- do not use anything that have anti-friction additives
3- do not use anything that says "Energy Conserving"

I have found some Castrol Syntech 0w30 full syntetic that met all 3 conditions last pre-season, used it all winter (2 fills) and had no problem whatsoever.

Using the recommended Yamalube is always a sure shot.

2 cent in...

I wanted to resurrect this post because I was doing a search on oils as I'm doing the oil change myself for the 1st time. I'm a HUGE Mobil 1 fan, but Mobil 1 has an API "CF" rating, and the Vector owners manual says not to go above API "CD" rating.

I called Mobil 1 tech support and I told the guy about what Yami recommends. He said not to use Mobil 1 because the Mobil 1 has a much higher detergent rating (CF) than what Yami wants. He said that you may not notice it now, but down the road you could.

Good enough reason for me not to use Mobil 1........the company says "don't use our oil".

 

[RX1-er-2005]

AMSOIL 0W-40 specialy made for any ATV or Sled requiring a non FRICTION modified oil, says it right on the can, for Canadian residents you can buy it at any Canadian Tire store for $9.99/L.

 

[Groomerdriver]

AMSOIL 0W-40 specialy made for any ATV or Sled requiring a non FRICTION modified oil, says it right on the can, for Canadian residents you can buy it at any Canadian Tire store for $9.99/L.

I saw that on their website but it also is rated API CF which is too high..higher than what Yami recommends.

 

[RX1-er-2005]

I saw that on their website but it also is rated API CF which is too high..higher than what Yami recommends.[/quote]

If you read on container it states that its safe to use w/Yami,Poo etc...for wet cluthe systems that require NON FRICTION modifier...

I even E-mailed them and got a response that they fully warranty their product that it won't void mfg warranty in any way...

 

[kyzer]

I was thinking about using Amisol 0-40 now I am not so sure...What problems have people had with ther starters, how could this affect the starters, or any other future problems....I talked to some reps of Amisol and they said it is an exellent oil and that I wouldn't have any issues with it, now I know that they are trying to sell a product, but so is Yamaha ...
I coppied this from the Amisol website

Formula 4-Stroke® Power Sports
0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (AFF)
AMSOIL Formula 4-Stroke® Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil (AFF) is specially formulated for four-stroke recreational motors, ATVs and snowmobiles. Reduces wear. Wet clutch compatible. Contains no friction modifiers. Broad viscosity range makes it excellent for use in both hot and cold weather conditions

 

[Oak Hill]

There is no wet clutch for the starter on these sleds. Alot of guys run synthetic on this site with no issues. It is the only way to go. Run faster, cooler and longer with synthetic oils. It also starts quicker and saves fuel. These are high performance engines running high RPM'S and you want the best possible oil.

 

[Groomerdriver]

There is no wet clutch for the starter on these sleds. Alot of guys run synthetic on this site with no issues. It is the only way to go. Run faster, cooler and longer with synthetic oils. It also starts quicker and saves fuel. These are high performance engines running high RPM'S and you want the best possible oil.

Read this - http://www.ttalk.info/Zddp.htm

Sounds like there are certain oils one wants to stay away from. It would seem that the Amsoil 0W-40 product mentioned above would be OK. Mobil 1 would not as well as any Valvoline product I could find. Redline was mentioned (they make Water Wetter) and I've got an e-mail into them asking for their recommendation on a full syn oil for my sled. The Amsoil product is about the same price as the 4S Yamalube.

Sorry Oak, just because "Alot of guys run synthetic on this site with no issues" doesn't mean it's the best thing for your engine. Everything is getting so technical nowadays it's hard to keep up with it all. Heck, even a tech at Mobil 1 (I called) recommended to NOT use their oils in 4S snowmobile motors. I run Mobil 1 in my vehicles and used Mobil 1 grease on verything I own, but I won't use Mobil 1 in my sled because they said not to.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Service manual displays the following warning in the engine oil section:

CAUTION:
Use only 4 stroke engine oil.
Engine oil also lubricates the starter clutch. In order to prevent clutch
slippage, do not use any chemical additives with the oil or use oils of a
higher grade than "CD". In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY
CONSERVING II" or higher.

 

[SharkAttak]

running mobil 1 5w-30 full syn

 

[Oak Hill]

Its a miss print, there is no starter clutch!

 

[BigJeff]

You could get away with running normal Car type oils in these engines. (i wouldn't) The friction additives are important in vehicles with a wet plates clutch system. Yamaha usually puts on there Yamalube bottles whether it contains a anti-friction additive or not. I checked the fiche images on the start system and there is no wet friction plate type clutch in the starting system. Heck bikes don't even use a wet friction plate clutch for the starting system. YES IT IS A WET CLUTCH THAT DOES NEED A LUBE.

I can say I plan on using AMS oil. I have been using it in my Yamaha R1 since the bike reached 6000 miles. It currently has 24,000miles on the engine. The valves need adjusted which is a winter time project but nothing other them that. I cut every other Oil filter apart and I yet to find any metal in the element. And yes i ride my bike like I stole it.

AMS kicks Butt

Jeff

 

[BigJeff]

One more pic while I am at it.

Jeff

 

[Handy]

Actually Jeff there is a starter clutch. But it is not a disc type clutch. I had mine replaced the first season under warrantie. The clutch that Yamaha uses on the RS engine is the same type as the RX & Apex engines. It is called an over running type clutch. The starter motor does not have a drive like your car or truck that moves in & out to engage or disengage. This starter motor stays engaged at all times. When the engine starts the RPM is faster than the starter motor RPM & the clutch slides on the starter motor shaft. Some of the early RX1s had a problem of the clutch not disengaging, therefore burning out the starter motor. They were replaced by Yamaha. All you have to do is talk to Yamaha service technicians and they will relate a few early horror stories.

 

[twomorestrokes]

http://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/ ... news_id=45

 

[BigJeff]

Actually Jeff there is a starter clutch. But it is not a disc type clutch. I had mine replaced the first season under warrantie. The clutch that Yamaha uses on the RS engine is the same type as the RX & Apex engines. It is called an over running type clutch. The starter motor does not have a drive like your car or truck that moves in & out to engage or disengage. This starter motor stays engaged at all times. When the engine starts the RPM is faster than the starter motor RPM & the clutch slides on the starter motor shaft. Some of the early RX1s had a problem of the clutch not disengaging, therefore burning out the starter motor. They were replaced by Yamaha. All you have to do is talk to Yamaha service technicians and they will relate a few early horror stories.

Yeah I know that I trying to make the point that a wet friction plate system was not being used. After rereading it I fixed it up to better make my point. The system is a sprag type clutch system that uses a bunch of parts that are important to have friction additives but not as important as if you were using friction plates.

You could still get away with using Automotive type oils with a sprag type clutch system. BUT I WOULD NOT..

That is what I get for repleying to post after being at work all night. Brain only works half butt that late at night.


Thanks

Jeff