Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
hahaha, sorry but that's too funny.
Are you serious? That is pretty flawed actually. FYI a venture lite did the same thing here Saturday and it has nothing to do with the ski's. Anyone who really rides powder and boondocks will have this issue if it is cold enough outside. It is a design flaw, plain and simple.
Are you serious? That is pretty flawed actually. FYI a venture lite did the same thing here Saturday and it has nothing to do with the ski's. Anyone who really rides powder and boondocks will have this issue if it is cold enough outside. It is a design flaw, plain and simple.
Mtn-Track
Extreme
Just a thought....
IF the connector is in the wire harness for a fan, AND the temp sensor in there, then why not connect it to a section of heat tape around the inside face of the cowl. When the engine starts to get hot, the "fan" will kick the heat tape on and keep the ice from bridging across the radiator.
If you're not afraid to cut and splice, here's how to make a low voltage heat tape:
Buy a conventional FLAT heat tape.
For 12V, measure 1/10 of its length from the thermostat end and CUT. For 24V, use 1/5 of its length.
Strip the cut end and connect the two inner wires together using the barrel of a crimp terminal. Be careful, the wires are thin and delicate. Protect the end with silicone sealant and/or tape.
You now have a low voltage tape. It will draw the same wattage PER FOOT as the original. The thermostat (if present) will work, but the neon indicator light won't. The remaining tape may be cut into more low voltage tapes by splicing lamp cord to one end, and tying the other end together (using crimp connectors). Add an external thermostat* because heat tape thermostats sometimes turn on as high as 50?. One line voltage thermostat can switch several tapes on and off.
Just a thought.
IF the connector is in the wire harness for a fan, AND the temp sensor in there, then why not connect it to a section of heat tape around the inside face of the cowl. When the engine starts to get hot, the "fan" will kick the heat tape on and keep the ice from bridging across the radiator.
If you're not afraid to cut and splice, here's how to make a low voltage heat tape:
Buy a conventional FLAT heat tape.
For 12V, measure 1/10 of its length from the thermostat end and CUT. For 24V, use 1/5 of its length.
Strip the cut end and connect the two inner wires together using the barrel of a crimp terminal. Be careful, the wires are thin and delicate. Protect the end with silicone sealant and/or tape.
You now have a low voltage tape. It will draw the same wattage PER FOOT as the original. The thermostat (if present) will work, but the neon indicator light won't. The remaining tape may be cut into more low voltage tapes by splicing lamp cord to one end, and tying the other end together (using crimp connectors). Add an external thermostat* because heat tape thermostats sometimes turn on as high as 50?. One line voltage thermostat can switch several tapes on and off.
Just a thought.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
pre-filter will work well, i'll get some of that, as far as ski's go, i had my sled in the shop for 5 min. and took the ski's off and re-placed them, yamaha ski's are to narrow, went with slp, better flotation
What Yamaha needs to do is come up with a platic radiator guard that will pop in and out, if you need to clean snowbuildup off of it, and it will also protect the radiator. I can't figure out how to post a picture, but if you look at a Yamaha Banshee Quad the radiator is in the front of the machine, and they have a plastic guard over it, even aftermarket with metal grating behind it. I guarantee a quad radiator will go thru more abuse than a snowmobile. Aluminum or metal grating up against the radiator will do nothing. Just my opinion.
Mars
Pro
I say block the hole....
YZFR6.... no snow cooled exhaust (duh)
R1 ... same
YZ250F keep in mind 3-5" off the head pipe GLOWS red on these... again no snow.
450F... same.
pattern developing here? I think so.
I always thought the HOTTER you got the exhaust, better it would flow... (hence why some race cars use header wrap, and other types of mat'ls to keep the heat in the pipes, not in the snow.)
YZFR6.... no snow cooled exhaust (duh)
R1 ... same
YZ250F keep in mind 3-5" off the head pipe GLOWS red on these... again no snow.
450F... same.
pattern developing here? I think so.
I always thought the HOTTER you got the exhaust, better it would flow... (hence why some race cars use header wrap, and other types of mat'ls to keep the heat in the pipes, not in the snow.)
Phazed-Coug
Expert
Yeah guys, don't be a fool, you can make your own guard like that from HOME DEPOT, its called Gutter Guard, car "tuners" have been using the stuff for years to make grills.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Mars said:
Agree with you and also if it were so that the stock exhaust needed snow to cool down itself and the engine like some says how the Fxxx can mc-xpress put a turbocharger under the seat and close the hole in tunnel completely. If that turbo dont start a fire under your #*$&@ I really dont think the stock axhaust will do so either without snow cooling it down. I belive that the guys on mc-x know what they are doing.
Attachments
BV1
Expert
Topper said:
I do agree that I think the narrow ski's contribute to the Snow Splash. They really sink in, in the pow, unless your standing right at the back. I think putting some widers skis on will, help, but not entirely resolve the issue.
Im in the process of doing all 3, wider skis, radiator gaurd (even if just keeps out the rocks, or some some angry tree branch), and some hole covering.
I did have alot more snow on the Phazer then my buddies AC had on his, so I just want to reduce that a little bit.
-Steve
phazerfly
Extreme
I agree a protector over the rad is needed, just in case something unexpected finds its way in there. This overheating issue though is being blown way out of line, it's really not that big of a deal, mine's only done it a few times running hard breaking trail in stubble fields, and the hole in the tunnel doesn't really cover you with alot of snow. Just pick up the new sled and enjoy it, it will be good. No matter what brand there are always some nit picky things, so just have fun. IMO :ORC
Mtn-Track
Extreme
OK, so a couple of the posts above don't exactly have it right on the exhaust gas temp deal (except Mars). Hot air is less dense than cold air. Wrapping the exhaust or ceramic coating your sled pipes helps to keep the heat in the pipe, thus keeping the gas density low. Same volume moving through the pipe, just less back pressure in the system when it is kept hotter. It also means cooler engine compartment temps if you can keep the heat inside the pipe. IMHO
BV1
Expert
Mtn-Track said:
This is what I have been taught / learned dealing with the automotive industry.
However, maybe in this case, the pipe simply can't handle the heat? Or something will simply get burned? That exhaust gets stupid hot.
-Steve
ptrudel
Pro
yeah it does, i'm sure if you ran it at night, and pulled the seat, the pipe would be glowing red for sure
Mtn-Track
Extreme
I think that was what the Yami mechanic was getting at. The exhaust gets stupid hot from this engine, and is partially surrounded by aluminum and plastic. That's why he said it needs to be cooled by the snow coming up from the tunnel. Not a performance issue, but an overall heat issue.
BV1
Expert
Well, I'd keep the hole if I could get my hands on some of those custom side cover s
-Steve
-Steve
those covers that i made in the pictures is pretty simple,anybody can do that.just get some thin aluminum and a jig saw and your set.you can shape them anyway you want
