Hey,
I do not have a fish scale...I will see how cheap they are and maybe pick one up. So the hissing and clunking will remain even after I get the secondary dialed in? I put the stock primary spring back in with the EPI secondary spring in to see what would happen and it acts the same and still has the hissing and clunking. Frank.
I do not have a fish scale...I will see how cheap they are and maybe pick one up. So the hissing and clunking will remain even after I get the secondary dialed in? I put the stock primary spring back in with the EPI secondary spring in to see what would happen and it acts the same and still has the hissing and clunking. Frank.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
You have to twist the helix clockwise to set spring tension BEFORE you put it on to the splines on the shaft.
xc_phazer137
Expert
Really? Thats wierd. Cuz the secondary clutch always has tention on it. Or not? Maybe I should call Glen and ask him. I will do that. I now the tighter the spring is the slower your sled will be and if you wind that sucker up to tight your motor will over rev and you will have no top end.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
No thats not wierd at all. Thats the right and only way to do it. If you put the helix on the splines, then twist and "lock" it up, you have not set any spring tension at all.
If you have the secondary on your sled just take off the belt, place one hand on the upper part on the sliding (inner) sheave and the other on the lower part then push it and turn it clockwise on the same time. If you have it right you should need to use some force to do this. If you can "push" the sliding sheave from you only using two fingers and dont "feel" any spring tension you have it wrong.
If you have the secondary on your sled just take off the belt, place one hand on the upper part on the sliding (inner) sheave and the other on the lower part then push it and turn it clockwise on the same time. If you have it right you should need to use some force to do this. If you can "push" the sliding sheave from you only using two fingers and dont "feel" any spring tension you have it wrong.
xc_phazer137
Expert
Yes that can happen I know this. Almost need 2 peep's if you dont have a clamp tool. That sounds like his problem. ALL tho I get alot more noise with the kit v/s stock clutching
xc_phazer137,Please fill in your profile location it's required by all members.Thank You
xc_phazer137
Expert
GOT IT SORRY ABOUT THAT.
Guys,
So I have to rotate the helix counterclockwise BEFORE I slide it over the splines???? I was sliding it over then splines then twisting...If thats the case, it is for sure my problem!!! Frank.
So I have to rotate the helix counterclockwise BEFORE I slide it over the splines???? I was sliding it over then splines then twisting...If thats the case, it is for sure my problem!!! Frank.
FXMAN
Extreme
I am having the same problem's . I bought the goodwin kit ( weight's, drive sring, new helix) and am having no top end, I hit the rev limiter at about 65mph MAX which is only 1/2 - 3/4 throttle. 
I pulled the secondary clutch slid the new helix over the splines in B-1 twisted till i got it past the next button, no better, i have pretty much given up and am ready to take it to a dealer and let them deal with it. 
I pulled the secondary clutch slid the new helix over the splines in B-1 twisted till i got it past the next button, no better, i have pretty much given up and am ready to take it to a dealer and let them deal with it.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
TRUTH said:
No. You rotate the helix clockwise with a little distance from the splines with your right hand holding the sheave "counterclockwise" with your left hand. When it is possisioned over the plastic (NOT down on the first "easy to pull down on plastic"), you need to use some force on the twist, push it down on the splines and hold it there until you have it locked before you let go of it. Hope you understand what I meen. Sorry for bad english...
To all who have had this problem, rotate the helix about 1/4 turn BEFORE you slide it over the shaft. It will help if you have another set of hands there to hold the sheaves. I got mine back together last night and that was the problem. I need to further tune it (I think) but the problem is gone.
The primary still has a bit of a "clunk" to it upon engagement and on decel. Is that normal with the EPI kit? It has the noise with both the EPI primary spring and the stock primary spring. Frank
The primary still has a bit of a "clunk" to it upon engagement and on decel. Is that normal with the EPI kit? It has the noise with both the EPI primary spring and the stock primary spring. Frank
