Extending the life of ball bearings

RX1Jim

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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The life of all of the "sealed" ball bearings can be gretly extended with a little maintenance. I put the word sealed in quotes since the seals actually do only a fair job in keeping out contaminants. Water works its way past the seals and stays in the bearing. Most of the damage is done to the bearings in the off-season as the water and warmer temps allow the balls and races to rust. I remove all of the sealed ball bearings at the end of the season, pop off the seals and clean out the old grease and crud and relube them with a water resistant synthetic grease. Since I have to trailer my sleds 6 hours to my sledding home base, I perform this service on the drive axle bearing (speedo drive side) after every trip. It only takes 30 min. and I find a samll amount of water in the bearing every time. Rust and corrosion due to water is the major cause of bearing failure. I installed 4 stainless steel bearings in the rear skid frame as an experiment to see if they will last longer. They are a bit expensive, I'm about to remove and inspect them.
 
Keep us posted on the STAINLESS bearings if they held up any better and if the $$$ is worth it or not.

Every fall I pull out my rear skid and STRIP-IT!

Meaning, all idlers are inspected and get new bearings $3.00 ea +/-, new set of hyfax/slides, check all bushings, inspect rails and arms for any cracks or bends and give a fresh coat of paint, get the oil in my shock changed and re-charged...all that for about $200.00 and a couple of hours in the garage wrenching with the boys and getting CRANKED up for the coming season! :drink:
 
you guys need to check this out... http://www.vxb.com/

excellent service and same as dealer bearings... I have had excellent luck with these.. I buy them in a pack.
 
Guys I am not sure what bearing to buy from a site like that. I have alway just gone to the dealer. I have had 7+thousand miles from my original ( do pop the seal and relube) but was going to replace this year.

What bearing part number or size do we need to order for Apex drive shaft?

Thanks
 
the drive shaft is not available there as it is tapered. Correct? I should have specified, sorry. I get all my wheel bearings from these guys.. they are a fraction of the cost. search the site or call them as they are very familiar with the yami's and 6205 etc bearings.
 
the drive shaft bearing is not tapered, the jackshaft bearing has the tapered bore. re packing the expensive bearings is a good practice, but i just replace the skid bearings yearly and not worry about them during the riding season.
 
you guys need to check this out... http://www.vxb.com/

excellent service and same as dealer bearings... I have had excellent luck with these.. I buy them in a pack.

I have to disagree with you on this website. I bought a bunch of bearings from this site. One set of bearings were fine and are working great. Another set of a different size were totally wrong. I called them and they said I was wrong. I had the old bearing and thier NEW bearing in my hand. They were the same part number but a different size. The NEW bearing didn't even need to be pressed into the wheel. They were totally loose. I called and asked for a return. They gave me an RMA and I returned. Six monthes later I called and they said that they got them back and they said that the bearing was within specs. They said that I could take them back or get a refund. I asked for the refund. Again a couple monthes and nothing. I called AGAIN and talked to the same person and they said that the refund was on the way. Ya right, I got 1/4 of the price I paid and they wouldn't refund anything more. Now they won't even accept my calls. I am done with them.......
 
i have seen 2 bearings marked 6205 that are different. one is metric with a 25mm bore, the other is standard wth a 1 inch bore (25.4mm).
 
dexter said:
you guys need to check this out... http://www.vxb.com/

excellent service and same as dealer bearings... I have had excellent luck with these.. I buy them in a pack.

If you are talking about using the ceramics, they are not typically considered for high impact applications. They are O.K. for motors that run for long periods. Also, at -50 degrees, they are even more fragile.

I would think stainless steel bearings would have a tendency to Gaul in extreme cold conditions.

It pays to re-lube the bearings. Especially right after the season ends, to get the water out. I have some of the OEM bearings that I have re-lubed which have lasted longer than two replacements on other similiar wheels.
 
I have never run the ceramic.. just regular ones.. I repack them like mentioned and they last a few seasons usually.
 


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