Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I just got back from my first ride with the new Camo Extreme 162 x 16 x 2.5 with 20/42 gearing, new jackshaft , speedometer, and chaincase bearings, back to 15mm rollers, Boos high rise seat and my new Wild Child rider forward. The snow sucked for the most part but hey, at least I got to ride.
First off and the best news is I didn't feel or notice much if any vibration with the new track. That was enough to make me very happy. The new track hooks up very hard and allows a guy to pull off some tremendous wheelies! This report is based on very limited snow and even more limited riding time.
I liked the clutching I guess, I am now using 15mm rollers in place of the 14.5mm rollers to give my clutch weights a bit more effect. I'm still using my O/S/O primary spring with the heavy hitters darn near empty now. I think I have a 3/8" steel bolt in the middle hole and a 3/4" Allen bolt in the heel. I was pulling 10,500 to 10,700 at 4,500 to 5,500 feet with a turn or two left on the Shockwave adjustbale helix mated to silver Yamaha secondary spring. The sled pulls hard and felt good if not a bit slower than I remember. The new gearing seems perhaps a bit restricting to top end speeds in the light snow but hey, I guess 2 1/2" paddle tracks aren't really made for speed, right?
Unfortunatley, the rider forward so far is the most disappointing aspect of the changes I made this last summer. Maybe it's my pivoting bar riser mounted on top of the Wildchild post but man turning the bars feels really weird. It feels like I'm trying to turn a large deers head while hanging on to it's antlers. I plan to try a plain old 2" riser alone next. The steering felt much better last season with the pivoting riser and the stock handle bar than this setup.
Also, it seems like the skis don't turn nearly as sharp with the new Wildchild setup. I think my 97 Powerstroke extended cab has a tighter turning radius than my sled with this kit. Maybe the new plate added to the kit to eliminate oversteer is to blame? I'll certainly be looking for a way to make the sled turn sharper.
The Boss highrise seat worked fine. I really don't have a rave review of it nor do I have anything bad to say about it. I bought it as a seat and it works just fine. It's soft on the behind yet firm.
Now if it would just snow (and not rain on top of it this time) we'd be in great shape!
Frosty
First off and the best news is I didn't feel or notice much if any vibration with the new track. That was enough to make me very happy. The new track hooks up very hard and allows a guy to pull off some tremendous wheelies! This report is based on very limited snow and even more limited riding time.
I liked the clutching I guess, I am now using 15mm rollers in place of the 14.5mm rollers to give my clutch weights a bit more effect. I'm still using my O/S/O primary spring with the heavy hitters darn near empty now. I think I have a 3/8" steel bolt in the middle hole and a 3/4" Allen bolt in the heel. I was pulling 10,500 to 10,700 at 4,500 to 5,500 feet with a turn or two left on the Shockwave adjustbale helix mated to silver Yamaha secondary spring. The sled pulls hard and felt good if not a bit slower than I remember. The new gearing seems perhaps a bit restricting to top end speeds in the light snow but hey, I guess 2 1/2" paddle tracks aren't really made for speed, right?
Unfortunatley, the rider forward so far is the most disappointing aspect of the changes I made this last summer. Maybe it's my pivoting bar riser mounted on top of the Wildchild post but man turning the bars feels really weird. It feels like I'm trying to turn a large deers head while hanging on to it's antlers. I plan to try a plain old 2" riser alone next. The steering felt much better last season with the pivoting riser and the stock handle bar than this setup.
Also, it seems like the skis don't turn nearly as sharp with the new Wildchild setup. I think my 97 Powerstroke extended cab has a tighter turning radius than my sled with this kit. Maybe the new plate added to the kit to eliminate oversteer is to blame? I'll certainly be looking for a way to make the sled turn sharper.
The Boss highrise seat worked fine. I really don't have a rave review of it nor do I have anything bad to say about it. I bought it as a seat and it works just fine. It's soft on the behind yet firm.
Now if it would just snow (and not rain on top of it this time) we'd be in great shape!
Frosty
tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Good news Frosty
For the rider forward, you will learn to like it. I'm sure, feel weird the first couple of ride.
My sled is'nt finish yet, but my goal is to ride it next week, but i'm still waiting for my 19 tooths gears.
Limited top speed ?
80 mph ?
How does feel the acceleration ? And track speed ?
Here we have so much snow and the sled is still in the garage. Can wait to give you my impression
For the rider forward, you will learn to like it. I'm sure, feel weird the first couple of ride.
My sled is'nt finish yet, but my goal is to ride it next week, but i'm still waiting for my 19 tooths gears.
Limited top speed ?
80 mph ?
How does feel the acceleration ? And track speed ?
Here we have so much snow and the sled is still in the garage. Can wait to give you my impression
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Tundra, I wish we had that much snow! It snow 50+" in the mountains and then the temperatures warmed and the snow turned to rain and the snow started melting away. I guess the good news is, where there still is snow, there is one heck of a base.
I think the rider forward will be ok. The goofy feeling I'm dealing with when turning is more than likely due to my bars being pulled back a bit for the more or less trail riding I was forced to do yesterday. When they are tipped back the handlebars bars aren't pivoting over the center of the steering post and it just feels weird.
I'm sure the turning radius issue can be overcome too but, it may take some experimenting. Maybe filing the bar stop arch shaped plate on the steering post a little bit at a time will yield the results I'm looking for?
Speed? Heck I don't know how fast I went. Yeah, probably 80 something. I was much more focused on the tach in my handlebar pad where it should be, which was swinging just beyond 10,500 everytime I pinned the throttle. Man I love this motor!
Once again I am absolutlely impressed with how well the ECP filter kit and the single pipe work. The midrange has never felt stronger and the carbueration felt smooth from idle to WOT. The ECP burble upon letting off the throttle seems to be completlely gone as well.
Frosty
I think the rider forward will be ok. The goofy feeling I'm dealing with when turning is more than likely due to my bars being pulled back a bit for the more or less trail riding I was forced to do yesterday. When they are tipped back the handlebars bars aren't pivoting over the center of the steering post and it just feels weird.
I'm sure the turning radius issue can be overcome too but, it may take some experimenting. Maybe filing the bar stop arch shaped plate on the steering post a little bit at a time will yield the results I'm looking for?
Speed? Heck I don't know how fast I went. Yeah, probably 80 something. I was much more focused on the tach in my handlebar pad where it should be, which was swinging just beyond 10,500 everytime I pinned the throttle. Man I love this motor!
Once again I am absolutlely impressed with how well the ECP filter kit and the single pipe work. The midrange has never felt stronger and the carbueration felt smooth from idle to WOT. The ECP burble upon letting off the throttle seems to be completlely gone as well.
Frosty
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Jonny Rocket
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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I sure hope I am not doing the wrong thing here. I am just finishing up the rider forward 2nd to all the great reviews. I am thinking/hoping even if the trail manners are not the best, the off trail manners will more than make up for it.
on that note I am a little concerned about the turning radius. Maybe if you grind the piece that hits the stop plate it will help???? Just a thought. I might have to look at this before putting it all back together.
J.
on that note I am a little concerned about the turning radius. Maybe if you grind the piece that hits the stop plate it will help???? Just a thought. I might have to look at this before putting it all back together.
J.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I was hoping for more but we'll figure it out J.
I'm sure the many folks who raved about the benefits of the mod can't be wrong.
Frosty
I'm sure the many folks who raved about the benefits of the mod can't be wrong.
Frosty
freelheeler
Pro
lee
glad to hear you got your sled out i've been liking the rider forward more and more. although it seems like the bars are a bit bent? i put on apex bars and a 6" risers and like the height for off trail.
later
glad to hear you got your sled out i've been liking the rider forward more and more. although it seems like the bars are a bit bent? i put on apex bars and a 6" risers and like the height for off trail.
later
powder muncher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The bars definitely like to be over the stem to feel right.
I had to mess around with the steering stop also and after a few different approaches came up with this--------fasten the stopper plate with counter sunk or very shallow head bolts so the stop on the stem can get past them ------than weld a (roughly 1/4 thick and just wide enough to clear the bolts) piece of steel in the centre of the plate---- use a dremel grinder to make a notch for the stop plate to go into .
Grind it as deep as you need for the desired turning radius.
This works perfect for me. turning radius is as good or better than stock and the stop is solid-----not that flimsy I hope it wont slide past the bolts set up.
I tried a picture but there is so much stuff right there it does not show well.
I had to mess around with the steering stop also and after a few different approaches came up with this--------fasten the stopper plate with counter sunk or very shallow head bolts so the stop on the stem can get past them ------than weld a (roughly 1/4 thick and just wide enough to clear the bolts) piece of steel in the centre of the plate---- use a dremel grinder to make a notch for the stop plate to go into .
Grind it as deep as you need for the desired turning radius.
This works perfect for me. turning radius is as good or better than stock and the stop is solid-----not that flimsy I hope it wont slide past the bolts set up.
I tried a picture but there is so much stuff right there it does not show well.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks for the info guys. I can't decide if I should order a 2", 3" or a 6" riser now. Although, now I have some ideas for the steering stop fix too.
Thanks guys
Frosty
Thanks guys
Frosty
Jonny Rocket
TY 4 Stroke Guru
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
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powder muncher said:
AaronBND
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Lee, good to hear your first ride went good! You are gonna love that track on the bottomless days. Hope it doesn't trench to bad with the low gearing? You might need to drop engagement in the primary a little. Give the rider forward a chance, you will learn to love it in the powder standing up! Where are the pictures? We only have like 26" up here on Bachelor! Pathetic start to the "great year" we are gonna have huh?
Aaron
Aaron
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
It's nice to hear from you Aaron!
I'm sure I'll get the rider forward figured out.
Now my question is:
What is the best handle bar setup with the rider forward mod?
I'm still using the stock handle bars but, I can sure see where a flat wider bar with a tall riser would be great. I have been asked by the guy that owns Avid products (Robby) "how in world can you ride the RX-1 with those narrow stock handlebars"? I guess I just don't know any better?
I'd entertain getting aluminum motocross bars and a tall riser (maybe someone has an extra set laying around?
What do you guys like best?
Frosty
I'm sure I'll get the rider forward figured out.
Now my question is:
What is the best handle bar setup with the rider forward mod?
I'm still using the stock handle bars but, I can sure see where a flat wider bar with a tall riser would be great. I have been asked by the guy that owns Avid products (Robby) "how in world can you ride the RX-1 with those narrow stock handlebars"? I guess I just don't know any better?
I'd entertain getting aluminum motocross bars and a tall riser (maybe someone has an extra set laying around?
What do you guys like best?
Frosty
doo_man
Expert
Frosty when mine was installed I used a 6" riser (from another yamaha sled, can't remember which one) and Apex Mtn bars and it was the perfect height!
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks Dooman!
The Apex Mountain bar solution almost sounds too easy!
Does anyone know how much wider they are than the 03 RX-1M bars?
The riser you are talking about is probably a Vector Mountain or a Apex Mountain riser?
I have read about guys using Fly bars and other motocross style bars too.
Thanks
Frosty
The Apex Mountain bar solution almost sounds too easy!
Does anyone know how much wider they are than the 03 RX-1M bars?
The riser you are talking about is probably a Vector Mountain or a Apex Mountain riser?
I have read about guys using Fly bars and other motocross style bars too.
Thanks
Frosty
I just have the stock riser block that comes on the Vector. 6" I think. They are like Ape hangars but I love them. Kind of hard to ride when you rsitting down though. Had enough snow to really ride today and I love the rider forward set up. Completely changed the ergos of the sled. Just shift your weight and it tips over. It is awesome. Highly recomended.
rx-hi
Pro
How much slop are you guys having with the rider forward? I seem to have about 1/2" twist in linkage.This is not in the wildchild steering colum but rather in the stock linkage. I cant seem to find a way to take it out. I also hooked my sway bar back up but I do not think that I like it. Who rides rider forward with sway bar unhooked?
