SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2003
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- Carlisle, NY .
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
First off, both sleds came with the taper so the collar gets tapped in and locked from the outside. I don't really care what the book says, this is the only logical way..how do you set the taper from the inside hitting outward? The exhaust is in the way. Plus, the secondary can keep the collar from sliding out, should it unlock itself. It is a 2 degree taper and anything less than 6 degrees is considered locking. But you must drive it in with a punch to lock it. I made a new one, and after lightly tapping it in, it was difficult to remove.
In any case, I made a .590" offset tool, and ground one of the shims so I have exactly a .590 offset. Then after seating the pulley against the shims, I put the aluminum spacer inside, and measured with a depth mic, how many shims on the outside, but made the stack .001" less than the reading. You do not want the bolt to tighten the secondary against the bearing...this is a radial load ball bearing, and will not tolerate any side loads. But you do want the secondary just touching, as to keep the collar from moving. Both sleds now have .001" (or less
) clearance or play on the secondary. We will see how this works over time, but the .590 offset looks very good, as running with the rear suspended, the belt looks absolutely perfect in the center of the pulleys, through the entire speed range.
With a secondary really tight against the inner race/collar, there is tremedous side load on those balls...possible ruining the bearing, but at the least, creating a lot of heat.
Remeber, there is no shoulder to support the bearing inner race like there is on the other end...the upper sprocket nut (65 ft.lbs) holds the sprocket and bearing against a shoulder on the jackshaft.
In any case, I made a .590" offset tool, and ground one of the shims so I have exactly a .590 offset. Then after seating the pulley against the shims, I put the aluminum spacer inside, and measured with a depth mic, how many shims on the outside, but made the stack .001" less than the reading. You do not want the bolt to tighten the secondary against the bearing...this is a radial load ball bearing, and will not tolerate any side loads. But you do want the secondary just touching, as to keep the collar from moving. Both sleds now have .001" (or less
) clearance or play on the secondary. We will see how this works over time, but the .590 offset looks very good, as running with the rear suspended, the belt looks absolutely perfect in the center of the pulleys, through the entire speed range.With a secondary really tight against the inner race/collar, there is tremedous side load on those balls...possible ruining the bearing, but at the least, creating a lot of heat.
Remeber, there is no shoulder to support the bearing inner race like there is on the other end...the upper sprocket nut (65 ft.lbs) holds the sprocket and bearing against a shoulder on the jackshaft.
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Good report. I never thought about the race not being butted to something on the back side. I'm going to do the best I can to copy it, even though I don't have the tools that you have. I don't think it would hurt to have a little more slop than .001. I'll shim it so I can just feel a little float.
This will be intersting over time. I have run 2700 miles with a Locked secondary and have inspected the bearing several times and it still looks great. I run an external belt deflection adjuster so you have no choice, it has to be locked. My dealer is now Locking every secondary on every RX1 they sell. All the failures they have seen have been when there is factory float. Since they started locking them down, no failures. I do think its very important that if you are going to do this, make sure you do it right. I like Sumps approach. If you have the tools, this would seem to be the most logical fix as you are leaving that tiny .001 gap. Thanks for the post sump...BBY
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
bearing
the real cure is to get the 04 sleve and nut or make your own. then it wil not back out ever 8)
the real cure is to get the 04 sleve and nut or make your own. then it wil not back out ever 8)
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2003
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- Carlisle, NY .
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
Black John, I have the updates on order, but won't change to them unless needed.
Also, I wanted to keep everything stock, so I just added shims, but a far easier way would be to just remove some material off the end of the aluminum spacer, but leaving the thin steel shim. If the bolt needs to be shortened, it's pretty easy. Shim the inside to .590, measure the drop from the aluminum (with spacer), cut the aluminum, file or belt sand to size, and you're done. To Blue's point, the bearings are pretty stout, and the side load may not hurt them in the short run, but I think it's better to have minimal side pressure on them...
Also, I wanted to keep everything stock, so I just added shims, but a far easier way would be to just remove some material off the end of the aluminum spacer, but leaving the thin steel shim. If the bolt needs to be shortened, it's pretty easy. Shim the inside to .590, measure the drop from the aluminum (with spacer), cut the aluminum, file or belt sand to size, and you're done. To Blue's point, the bearings are pretty stout, and the side load may not hurt them in the short run, but I think it's better to have minimal side pressure on them...
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
jack shaft
its esey to put it in from the inside first put thr sleve on the shaft moveing it forward enuf to put the bearing over the sleve the drive it in place and you are done. if the clutch hits this sleve it will come lose. i have the 04 set up in my hand as i type and its mutch improved same bearing differnt sleve with a large lock nut and a washer with grove cut in it and the sleve is notched to have a holding tool instaled in i. to put the same set back in place is to flirt with desaster
its esey to put it in from the inside first put thr sleve on the shaft moveing it forward enuf to put the bearing over the sleve the drive it in place and you are done. if the clutch hits this sleve it will come lose. i have the 04 set up in my hand as i type and its mutch improved same bearing differnt sleve with a large lock nut and a washer with grove cut in it and the sleve is notched to have a holding tool instaled in i. to put the same set back in place is to flirt with desaster
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
kack shaft bearing
if yamaha up dated why would you not whant to the 04 is up dated and i have good info that the 05 is total differnt and that the parts are not interchangeable. now the bearing that i run is a 6206 that i can get at any bearing shop for 9-10 dollers not a 52.00 bearing that i have to wait 3 months for. i got my sleve from my shop floor. even if i had to by a new polaries jack shaft bearing for 15.00 and cut it apart it would be faster and cost far less. 10.00+15.00=25.00. 52.00+46+50.00 +15.00=163.00+ a 3 month wait :evil: and being told that ther is no problem with this set up by some one on the phone at yamaha that realy pissed me off pr is not some thing that they a good at i would be esay to keep it stock if parts were avlable and you did not want to ride.
if yamaha up dated why would you not whant to the 04 is up dated and i have good info that the 05 is total differnt and that the parts are not interchangeable. now the bearing that i run is a 6206 that i can get at any bearing shop for 9-10 dollers not a 52.00 bearing that i have to wait 3 months for. i got my sleve from my shop floor. even if i had to by a new polaries jack shaft bearing for 15.00 and cut it apart it would be faster and cost far less. 10.00+15.00=25.00. 52.00+46+50.00 +15.00=163.00+ a 3 month wait :evil: and being told that ther is no problem with this set up by some one on the phone at yamaha that realy pissed me off pr is not some thing that they a good at i would be esay to keep it stock if parts were avlable and you did not want to ride.
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