• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Flex Pipe/Header heat shield insulation

M

mrc3

Veteran
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
29
Location
Twin Cities, MN.
Hello. Pulled off the exhaust to check the clamps and donuts and noticed that the coating on the underside of the heat shield cover is gone (parts of it laying below). Given the location (right under the gas tank), I investigated the cost of replacement. ~$100 ouch. Is there an aftermarket heat shield material that will withstand the conditions in there or am I stuck with ordering a new replacement part.

I am looking at the following:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13500-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2A
or
http://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-300002-Universal-Downpipe/dp/B002UPJYJG8

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

I have been using stuff from an aircraft supply store with great luck http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=heat+barrier&x=0&y=0

But to be honest have not had to replace the specific piece you have.... so couldn't tell ya. There are hundreds of products on that site, just find what works for you. Or... buy the yammi stuff. I dont know what the Yammi insulation is rated to in *F, but it is obviously not enough because many people find it burnt out.
 
It doesn't burn up, it just comes unglued from the aluminum shield.

That aircraft stuff looks good but I wouldn't trust any adhesive to withstand the heat and moisture. I would use one of those adhesive backed materials and add some rivets and washers to hold it in place.
 
good idea about the rivets. My insulation was completely intact so didnt have to look for an alternative.

I fully blocked off my tunnel, then cut the heat shields at the sides to let the heat vent out from under the gas tank. Been working awesome and minimal icing. I added some of that aircraft 2000f adhesive shielding to the underside of the gas tank just to put my mind at ease. Also used it in kids 120 sled that had bellypan melting from exhaust pipe heat and it worked 100%.

But yeah moisture will get in there for sure.
 
I have replaced mine 3 times. Last time what I did is sandwich the insulation in between piece of the old shield. There is a post. It has held up very well. I agree it falls off and I dont trust any substitute there. Will look for the post.
 
I think the current part has more clips holding the insulation in place than the original on my 07.
 
Maybe but in 13 it didn't. Here is what I did back then.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/phazer-refresh.122246/
image.jpeg
 
I used a high heat blanket similar material to the fire blankets that welders use. It sits between the heat shield and the fuel tank. Also used header wrap along the entire exhaust system. I also did replace underneath the heat shield, can't remember if it was the adhesive style or not. I would also recommend replacing the flex joints, I had a hole in one of mine and actually caused a fire. Got lucky with just a few melted wires. Here is a pic of the replacement headers
IMG_0156.JPG
 
cannondale27 said:
Maybe but in 13 it didn't. Here is what I did back then.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/phazer-refresh.122246/
View attachment 111514
Click to expand...
Cannondale27, when I built ditch cricket, I bought the new upper shield which comes with the insulation for $100ish. I cut the old one to fit inside of the new one so that the entire shield is lined with aluminum completely sandwiching the insulation so it can't go anywhere. I also added a couple rivets to hold it all together tightly. Was kind of a pain to get the cut right, but with a little trimming it all went together well. I didn't take a picture, but when I take it of to check on it later this season, I will take a picture.
 
Well I ended up getting this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029KC2A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I cut it with heavy duty scissors to slide under the retaining clips on all 4 sides and managed to work it into place after removing the film from the adhesive backing.

Installed it and ran the sled for about 20 minutes with varying degrees of throttle. Seems to be holding up thus far.

I'll report back if I have any issues with it through the season.

Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top