stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had some previous posts here about a clunk on the mono skid of my 06 attack during full extenssion. Many said that the shock needed rebuilding. I did that and the clunk is still there. At least I ruled out the shock. It is realy bad on the beaten trails with wash board bumps and the bumps don't even have to be that bad. I looked at the skid when I was going over them slowly. What is happening is when the front of the skid hits the crest of the bump it is compressing and making slack in the limit strap and when the skid gets to being half way over the crest of the bump the front of the skid drops down and hits the end of the limit strap and makes a hard bang. When the sled is just sitting there with no weight on it there is slack in the limit strap. Is this supposed to be this way. I adjusted the limit strap to the tightest hole and there is still slack. I bought this sled rolled last year and fixed it up. The transfer rod was bent so I installed a used one. I don't know if it is adjusted properly. Could this have anything to do with it. If so how do I adjust it properly.
What could be wrong? I am at my witts end with this. This is not as bad as the poor guy that just blew two motor but it is stiil frustrating non the less.
PLEASE HELP!!!
What could be wrong? I am at my witts end with this. This is not as bad as the poor guy that just blew two motor but it is stiil frustrating non the less.
PLEASE HELP!!!
blue er
Expert
the 06 monos clunked like a bitch untill the dealer installed an o-ring in them, try taking your transfer rod apart and install a o-ring in it
stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
So you are saying it is the transfer rod not the limit strap. where do I install the O ring?
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
transfer rod..... they clunk and bang and carry on under the sled... mine is removed... but by personal choice. Wheely monster without it!
actionjack
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Learn to ignore the clump. It only happens on washboards at slow speed like when you are closing in on a hotel or bar.
YammyRX1
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actionjack said:
X2- this was my first weekend with a new (to me) mono skid and coming out of the hotel it clunked like crazy on the washboard bumps going slow. As soon as you get any speed it goes away. I'll have to try the o-ring trick but that can wait for end of season.
stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yep, it was the transfer rod. I just removed it and took it for a spin. No noise. And like sherlock29 said WHEELY MONSTER. You should have seen the looks I was getting doing wheelys at 40mph. I am going to try the O ring trick since I have it out or maybe some soft rubber washers. I thought I read some where that they put grease inside also. I would think that the grease would just push out the seals. I will have to put it back in as it is my wifes sled and she won't like that. It sure is fun though
YammyRX1
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Take some pictures and let us know what's involved.
stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
will do
actionjack
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I'm gonna have to try that for grins.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
stomper said:
Stomper, just curious if you noticed any ride difference over the bumps, did it feel smoother/softer?
I am jst trying to figure out if adjusting the T-rod makes for a smoother/harder ride or is it strictly for transfer?
stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
Irv, I can't realy answer your question because I never adjusted the transfer rod. I took it out.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
stomper said:
So you never noticed any ride difference with it in or out, or did you not do enough miles to even notice?
Thanks
stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
Well I installed some rubber washers that I made and the clunk is completly gone. On the bumps where it was absolutly brutal, the clunk no longer exists. I am very happy. I used 1/4" linotex rubber. It is a soft rubber that is used where a resistance to abraision is needed. It is used to rubberline the pumps, impellers and piping in the mill at the hard rock mine that I work at.
Here is what I did.
I placed the body of the transfer rod in the vise using a cloth to protect the aluminum from any scratches. I the loosened the jam nut that holds the rod end into the body. I then unscrewed it and took it apart.
On the end of the rod that is in the body there is a large piston type bolt head that requires a large allan wrench to loosen. I didn't have one so I took an old trick that I learned from my old pipefitting days. A pipe wrench and a folded up cloth (to stop marking up the piston).
Here you can see the internal parts of the transfer rod. Those washers are hard plastic. No wonder this thing clunks so bad, its metal on hard plastic every time it cycles.
I had a hollow punch set but it only went up to 1" and I needed a 1.25" one, so I compromised. I used a c clamp and a peice of 1.25" tube and clamped it to the bench top and cut around the tube with a utility knife. For the inside hole of the I just used the hollow punch.
I made two of them. One for inside the bottom of the body and one for the the rod. In the picture I have already instaled the one in the body. I probably could have left the plastic washers off but I put them back on. I greased it up, put it back together and installed it back into the skid.
Here is a picture of the rubber and the hollow punch set.
Here is what I did.
I placed the body of the transfer rod in the vise using a cloth to protect the aluminum from any scratches. I the loosened the jam nut that holds the rod end into the body. I then unscrewed it and took it apart.
On the end of the rod that is in the body there is a large piston type bolt head that requires a large allan wrench to loosen. I didn't have one so I took an old trick that I learned from my old pipefitting days. A pipe wrench and a folded up cloth (to stop marking up the piston).
Here you can see the internal parts of the transfer rod. Those washers are hard plastic. No wonder this thing clunks so bad, its metal on hard plastic every time it cycles.
I had a hollow punch set but it only went up to 1" and I needed a 1.25" one, so I compromised. I used a c clamp and a peice of 1.25" tube and clamped it to the bench top and cut around the tube with a utility knife. For the inside hole of the I just used the hollow punch.
I made two of them. One for inside the bottom of the body and one for the the rod. In the picture I have already instaled the one in the body. I probably could have left the plastic washers off but I put them back on. I greased it up, put it back together and installed it back into the skid.
Here is a picture of the rubber and the hollow punch set.
stomper
TY 4 Stroke Master
Irv said:
Oh sorry I misundertood you. Yeah huge difference. I only had to go 2 feet to notice the difference (skis in the air, he ha). The suspenssion was way softer, almost too soft, but the steering diminished greatly. Due to the fact that once on the gas the skis were in the air, ALL THE TIME. It was ALOT of fun but not practical for the riding that I do.
