Fx nytro handling

[Robba535]

Hello so i bought a fx nytro rtx 2009 and at the first real ride it darted like crazy , it had yamaha dual keel skies and was very "darty" in corners, my father had the same skies on his apex and bought polaris gripper skies with great result and i did the same, the problem now is its too grippy, i have put down the limiter strap to the third lowest hole, was at the far top when i bought it, and got 65 psi in the front, when i was riding today it was so hard to steer i felt flex in the handebar, have any of you guys any experience with more agressive skies and how to setup the nytro to work with it? i know the handling on the nytros is on the heavier side but this is pretty crazy, have felt abit of play in the balljoints not sure if that can make the steering that heavy, my thought at the moment is to lower the limiter strap even more for less skie pressure then im not too sure what to do.

 

[74Nitro]

If the front ball joints are bad, it can cause poor steering/handling

 

[Robba535]

If the front ball joints are bad, it can cause

If the front ball joints are bad, it can cause poor steering/handling

im not sure if its the snow that was weird or not too, my father could not really tell cause he have eps, is it the over and lower balljoint you replace or is it the steering joint too? Thanks for the reply

 

[74Nitro]

The lower A arm ball joint.

 

[Robba535]

The lower A arm ball joint.

Alright thanks, i have play in upper too, so guess i have to change all 4

 

[1nc 2000]

Lift front end off ground.
Check for play in a arm pivot bushings, ball joints and spindle to ski bushings.
All of these being worn will make the sled act the way you are describing.
Also after replacement of worn parts check toe out of skis.

 

[Robba535]

Lift front end off ground.
Check for play in a arm pivot bushings, ball joints and spindle to ski bushings.
All of these being worn will make the sled act the way you are describing.
Also after replacement of worn parts check toe out of skis.

i will check that, thanks alot!

 

[Sevey]

Alright thanks, i have play in upper too, so guess i have to change all 4

For some reason the nytro is really hard on ball joints. Every 3-4 yrs i had to change all mine to keep the front end tight. The good news is - its relatively easy to do.

As for the handling - that sled works well with a dual keel ski. So keep the Tuners. I had two - 6" carbides - stud boy shapers (which is pretty aggressive) and never found the steering too heavy (I am not a big person). The Tuners dont hunt/dart, they track great and they break up the bar pressure really well. In hard snow they work well, you just had to watch them in loose snow-fluffy or wet.

Let the limiter strap out, slack off the centre shock so the spring is just firm- then two turns (when the weight is off the back end) and slacken the springs on the front a-arm shocks. With the weight off the front, bring them up so the spring is just snug, then 2 more turns. Nytros liked a low front end.

That should get you going. Then work on compression and rebound accordingly.
MS

 

[Robba535]

For some reason the nytro is really hard on ball joints. Every 3-4 yrs i had to change all mine to keep the front end tight. The good news is - its relatively easy to do.

As for the handling - that sled works well with a dual keel ski. So keep the Tuners. I had two - 6" carbides - stud boy shapers (which is pretty aggressive) and never found the steering too heavy (I am not a big person). The Tuners dont hunt/dart, they track great and they break up the bar pressure really well. In hard snow they work well, you just had to watch them in loose snow-fluffy or wet.

Let the limiter strap out, slack off the centre shock so the spring is just firm- then two turns (when the weight is off the back end) and slacken the springs on the front a-arm shocks. With the weight off the front, bring them up so the spring is just snug, then 2 more turns. Nytros liked a low front end.

That should get you going. Then work on compression and rebound accordingly.
MS

with letting the limiter strap out do you mean do put it in the lowest hole possible? slacken the front springs how do i do that on fox floats? thanks for the answer, new to spring adjustment, only had 1 snowmobile before this and i didnt really needed to do any adjustment on it

 

[earthling]

with letting the limiter strap out do you mean do put it in the lowest hole possible? slacken the front springs how do i do that on fox floats? thanks for the answer, new to spring adjustment, only had 1 snowmobile before this and i didnt really needed to do any adjustment on it

He means make it as longer.

 

[Sevey]

with letting the limiter strap out do you mean do put it in the lowest hole possible? slacken the front springs how do i do that on fox floats? thanks for the answer, new to spring adjustment, only had 1 snowmobile before this and i didnt really needed to do any adjustment on it

WIthout seeing it - i cant say exactly what hole to put it on. Its been a number of years since i have worked on a NYtro. With the sled on the ground, there should be slack in the strap, if it is tight - it needs to be loosened (the strap should bow, when on the ground). Keep in mind - the more you tighten that strap, the more weight you are putting on the nose (front skis). Also, every hole you tighten a limiter strap - the centre shock has to be adjusted as well. The Nytro (along with most 4 st) already has a tone of weight over the skis so messing with the strap just amplifies that.

I have never worked with air shocks - i have always run coil overs. So when you loosen springs you are lowering the ride height, placing more weight on the skis - and taking the nervousness out of the front. Cross reference that thinking to pressures - and adjust accordingly. I have to assume its a matter of lower pressures.

Hope that helped
MS

 

[Robba535]

WIthout seeing it - i cant say exactly what hole to put it on. Its been a number of years since i have worked on a NYtro. With the sled on the ground, there should be slack in the strap, if it is tight - it needs to be loosened (the strap should bow, when on the ground). Keep in mind - the more you tighten that strap, the more weight you are putting on the nose (front skis). Also, every hole you tighten a limiter strap - the centre shock has to be adjusted as well. The Nytro (along with most 4 st) already has a tone of weight over the skis so messing with the strap just amplifies that.

I have never worked with air shocks - i have always run coil overs. So when you loosen springs you are lowering the ride height, placing more weight on the skis - and taking the nervousness out of the front. Cross reference that thinking to pressures - and adjust accordingly. I have to assume its a matter of lower pressures.

Hope that helped
MS

Thanks alot, its five holes and i have in the third hole from the bottom, highest most tight and lowest the least, i didnt do anything with the center spring when i lowered the strap so thats probably why im not getting the best result then, so i guess i to harden the center shock to make up for the limit strap ajustment right?

 

[Sevey]

Ideally you want as much of the strap out as possible (I would choose the second hole from lowest (least tight). That way you are getting the most range of movement out of the front of the skid. Every time you pull it up or let it down, the centre shock must be reset. Completely slacken the spring on the centre shock (with the sled lifted by the rear), and bring on the locking colour so the spring is snug (where you can just rattle it a bit by hand) and then 2 turns to make it tight. When doing that - you are setting that shock as loose as its going to get - placing consistent weight on the nose of the sled. You can then begin to fine tune while riding (depending on how much steering pressure you feel). If you dont 'reset', you will be chasing your tail on set-up. (Also - take a file and mark the collar on the shock so you can keep track of revolutions. I never got carried away on locking it too tight, snug was fine - when you mark it - you can tell if its turning while riding and then turn it back if it moves.)

The Nytro liked a loose centre shock. I never had to really tighten it. With the right ski - the ski pressure and steering pressure was broken up and the sled handled positively - no nervousness, no darting.

For reference - everything i have said is to set a sled up for decent trail riding - not clowning around in a field or ditching - where you want more transfer to the back of the sled. I wanted positive bite on the front end to take corners as fast as the sled/and i could handle.

MS

 

[Robba535]

Ideally you want as much of the strap out as possible (I would choose the second hole from lowest (least tight). That way you are getting the most range of movement out of the front of the skid. Every time you pull it up or let it down, the centre shock must be reset. Completely slacken the spring on the centre shock (with the sled lifted by the rear), and bring on the locking colour so the spring is snug (where you can just rattle it a bit by hand) and then 2 turns to make it tight. When doing that - you are setting that shock as loose as its going to get - placing consistent weight on the nose of the sled. You can then begin to fine tune while riding (depending on how much steering pressure you feel). If you dont 'reset', you will be chasing your tail on set-up. (Also - take a file and mark the collar on the shock so you can keep track of revolutions. I never got carried away on locking it too tight, snug was fine - when you mark it - you can tell if its turning while riding and then turn it back if it moves.)

The Nytro liked a loose centre shock. I never had to really tighten it. With the right ski - the ski pressure and steering pressure was broken up and the sled handled positively - no nervousness, no darting.

For reference - everything i have said is to set a sled up for decent trail riding - not clowning around in a field or ditching - where you want more transfer to the back of the sled. I wanted positive bite on the front end to take corners as fast as the sled/and i could handle.

MS

Thanks alot for the help!

 

[GudeMN]

Thanks alot for the help!

The ski you run can effect your ride a bit but I feel on the Nytro it's the ski pressure that dictates handling the most. I have run C&A Razors and SLP Mohawks on my Nytro. I shimmed the ski bumper and use Bergstrom ski savers to help stay out of other keel ruts on the trail. To be honest there was no real difference in handling until I installed a Mountaintech 41+2 a-arm kit on my sled. It changed the machine overnight. The 41 is ski width and the +2 means the spindles have been moved 2 inches forward of the stock position. The forward positon of the spindle is the key. This position removes a significant amount of ski pressure and makes turn downright easy compared to stock. I can steer with one hand now if I wanted....it changed the handling that much.

I loved the idea of the Nytro before my Mountaintech upgrade. But wrestling it all day was annoying and tiresome. It also didn't handle that well off trail which made ditch riding a risk/reward scenario all the time. Anyway, it's pretty awesome now and I plan on picking up another one. If my next one doesn't have the Mountaintech arms that will be the first upgrade it gets.