- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,348
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
Here is a post I had put up before that was tied in with some general photos and our 136" kit. This time I will make the post only about a gear or track swap! (Tom maybe you wanna put this in the tech section?)
Time to disassemble the chaincase!
First removing the plastic panels!
Little tabs hold the plastic into place. I use a small flat blade screw driver to pop them up and remove them!
Need a 10mm socket to remove these (on bottom/underside portion of panel).
Lower little tab lock under the running board.
Time to disassemble the chaincase!
First removing the plastic panels!
Little tabs hold the plastic into place. I use a small flat blade screw driver to pop them up and remove them!
Need a 10mm socket to remove these (on bottom/underside portion of panel).
Lower little tab lock under the running board.
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,348
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
More disassembly pics!
Draining the chaincase oil (use 12mm socket).
Snap Ring & Washer that must be removed for brake disc removal.
Bolts to remove parking brake (use 4mm allen wrench).
Parking Brake removed!
Bolts to remove brake assembly (use 12mm wrench).
Brake assembly removed!
Brake disc removed!
Now we have to remove the spacer behind the brake disc and also a torx set screw to remove the thicker spacer.
Bolt holding reverse idler pulley (10mm socket).
Bolt holding chain tensioner (10mm socket).
Nut to unhook the reverse linkage (10mm socket).
Bolts to remove chaincase cover (12mm socket 5 bolts total).
Also behind the collar we removed on the upper shaft is a small o-ring!
Chaincase cover removed!
Lower bolt holding lower gear on (14mm socket).
Upper shaft showing spacer & washer against top gear.
Showing lower spacer that is behind the gear.
Showing upper spacer & washer that is behind the top gear.
Rear suspension bolts to remove (14mm socket & wrench).
Suspension ready to slide out!
Draining the chaincase oil (use 12mm socket).
Snap Ring & Washer that must be removed for brake disc removal.
Bolts to remove parking brake (use 4mm allen wrench).
Parking Brake removed!
Bolts to remove brake assembly (use 12mm wrench).
Brake assembly removed!
Brake disc removed!
Now we have to remove the spacer behind the brake disc and also a torx set screw to remove the thicker spacer.
Bolt holding reverse idler pulley (10mm socket).
Bolt holding chain tensioner (10mm socket).
Nut to unhook the reverse linkage (10mm socket).
Bolts to remove chaincase cover (12mm socket 5 bolts total).
Also behind the collar we removed on the upper shaft is a small o-ring!
Chaincase cover removed!
Lower bolt holding lower gear on (14mm socket).
Upper shaft showing spacer & washer against top gear.
Showing lower spacer that is behind the gear.
Showing upper spacer & washer that is behind the top gear.
Rear suspension bolts to remove (14mm socket & wrench).
Suspension ready to slide out!
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,348
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
More pictures!
Bolts to remove on secondary side so we can slide the driveshaft out! (12mm socket & 14mm socket).
Bearing carrier/assembly to be removed in chaincase to allow the driveshaft to slide out!
A little prying might be needed to get the bearing out (didn't take much).
Driveshaft slide out (notice I did not have to remove secondary side bearing).
Bulkhead shots after driveshaft has been removed!
Bolts to remove on secondary side so we can slide the driveshaft out! (12mm socket & 14mm socket).
Bearing carrier/assembly to be removed in chaincase to allow the driveshaft to slide out!
A little prying might be needed to get the bearing out (didn't take much).
Driveshaft slide out (notice I did not have to remove secondary side bearing).
Bulkhead shots after driveshaft has been removed!
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,348
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
Putting chaincase back together!
I will write out order in which spacers, etc go so no one gets confused (sorry didn't take a picture of this).
Top shaft: spacer, washer, gear, washer, spacer
Reverse Idler shaft: washer, inside gear, outside gear, washer
***Make sure spring is in between the inside & outside gear***
Bottom Shaft: Spacer, gear
This is for reverse models!
Shift fork inside chaincase cover must go into the slot in the reverse gear. This is kinda tricky because you can not see if it slides in, you can only "feel" it slide into correct placement. It should slide nice and easy when correct!
From there you can reassemble the chaincase and put the front plastic back on. If you have to put the rear skid back in you will need to unhook the torsion springs usually to get the rear mounting points to line up!
I will write out order in which spacers, etc go so no one gets confused (sorry didn't take a picture of this).
Top shaft: spacer, washer, gear, washer, spacer
Reverse Idler shaft: washer, inside gear, outside gear, washer
***Make sure spring is in between the inside & outside gear***
Bottom Shaft: Spacer, gear
This is for reverse models!
Shift fork inside chaincase cover must go into the slot in the reverse gear. This is kinda tricky because you can not see if it slides in, you can only "feel" it slide into correct placement. It should slide nice and easy when correct!
From there you can reassemble the chaincase and put the front plastic back on. If you have to put the rear skid back in you will need to unhook the torsion springs usually to get the rear mounting points to line up!
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
Wow, that's a great help for me, thanks! I am planning on doing a track change on my Vector. Nice pics, thanks.
Is the reverse gear assembly and linkage basically the same design despite the different sleds?
Is the reverse gear assembly and linkage basically the same design despite the different sleds?
NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks for the picts.. It should make it easier for me gear change once you send me my stage II clutch kit.
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
Can someone PLEASE explain what position the the shift fork should be in when assembling the reverse mechanism ? I'm only getting partial operation, seems to be pushing the case cover out when I try to operate the reverse lever, so I must be doing something wrong here...
BTW, this is my first solo track swap, so take it easy on me, ok :exc:
BTW, this is my first solo track swap, so take it easy on me, ok :exc:
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,348
- Location
- Menno, SD
- Website
- www.ulmerracing.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
- LOCATION
- Menno, SD
- WEBSITE
- www.ulmerracing.com
You must have the cover tight before trying to use reverse. The lever should be in the "up" position and come down over the top of the slot in the reverse gear.
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
Srxspec said:You must have the cover tight before trying to use reverse. The lever should be in the "up" position and come down over the top of the slot in the reverse gear.
So should I leave the fork in the "up" position the entire time while I reattach the case cover ? I figure I have to slide the cover on and lower the fork onto the channel in the reverse gear simultaneously, but like you said, you can't see what's happening inside there. Also, there is a spacer and another washer/spacer for the bottom gear(s), one being behind the first gear, and the other being behind the collar on the spline that fits onto the shaft, correct ? So if I have that right, should the thicker spacer sit behind the gear against the bearing (small collar facing in), or should it sit on the spline, AND, if so, in what direction should the thicker spacer face (small collar in or out) ? I apologize for all the questions and confusion on my part, (I've probably confused you now as well) but I'm missing a great day of riding and it's been a frustrating situation thus far...
08NitroRTX
VIP Member
It's alrght NyTrO! As soon as you get that track on the snow It'll be well worth all the hassle!!!
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
08NitroRTX said:It's alrght NyTrO! As soon as you get that track on the snow It'll be well worth all the hassle!!!
OHHH YEAHHH, the ol butt dyno will be reading an extra 20 ponies I'm sure !
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
PERSISTENCE overpowers once again ! I finally got it, did the same thing all over again as I did before, except it works this time ! Install brake assembly, reinstall suspension and I'm ready to rock !
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
For those doing the track change themselves, IF you run into problems getting the reverse shift fork lined up in the channel on the reverse gear, try moving the upper shaft back and forth a bit as Allan stated to align the gears, this will make it easier for the fork to find it's home and allow the reverse lever to fully operate. Another thing is to hold the reverse linkage just above the position where it lines up to be reassembled on the bolt while applying the case cover, and about half way on with the cover, lower the linkage slowly and it should fall into place on the reverse gear channel along with the case cover sliding on smoothly. Just thought I'd add my 2c
08NitroRTX
VIP Member
YOU now have ventured where few have yet to have gone!
But there will many to follow! lol!
But there will many to follow! lol!
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
08NitroRTX said:YOU now have ventured where few have yet to have gone!
But there will many to follow! lol!
Not to mention this was the first time I changed a track pretty much on my own
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