gear\chain question

jminor1

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Decided to change my driveshaft for precautionary reasons on my 08 rtx and when I took the chaincase apart I noticed a couple things..
-the last guy in there when he changed the track previously did not reinstall the small spring in the reverse gear, I assume that is necessary for proper operation?

- he has geared the sled to 23-38 and left the 68 link chain which now has no adjustment and is very tight, I feel I should change the chain to a 70 does anyone concur or are people still keeping the 68?

- the rtx torsion spring suspension in the sled is rubbing the middle of the track on the shock to the point of wearing through, is there a fix out there?
 
You should go to the 70 link chain for more adjustment.

Ulmer sells a kit for the mono shock suspension called "Track Rub Eliminator". Even though you don't have the mono I think the kit may work for your suspension. Otherwise you could probably make one on your own. It's basically two bearings and a bolt. The bears run on the track instead of your shock housing rubbing against it.

Look under accessories http://www.ulmerracing.com/
 
I have ulmer's track rub eliminator on my '08 rtx. It can be put in by just removing the shock bolt and follow the old bolt in with the new one so the shock mount hole stays in alignment.
 
What are those bearings in the kit? I would prefer to make my own at this point as there is a bearing place 5 mins from me and receiving shipping in Canada is a pain!
 
I can look but there is a bushing pressed into the bearings to reduce the diameter to match the bolt....
 
I'm okay with that my friend has a lathe if you can let me know the bearing number that would be awesome!
 
The bearings are 6203RS, good luck with the project. :sled1:
 
I took 6004 bearings and am getting a bit thicker bushings made thanks for the replies!
 
I did this on my Proaction ck...

Get two 6203 X 5/8 bearings and a 5/8 X 3/8 bushing from your local bearing shop or princess auto. Cut the bushing to the width of the bearings, press them into the bearings and bolt them up with a longer bolt. If memory serves, I used a 3/8 bolt and a jamb nut and ground the bolt head down for clearance. I also used thin stainless washers on either side of the bearings for spacers. I did this 3 years ago with 0 issues. I do replace the bearings every year though
 


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