Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What gears are guys running? I'm thinking of gearing down 1 tooth on the top gear on my 03 shorty. Is anyone doing this and what results are you getting? Whats the stock gears and what is being run??? 
Skydog
TY 4 Stroke God
Run stock!
Skydog P.S. Turk has done the testing on this!
Skydog P.S. Turk has done the testing on this!
Turk
Tech Advisor
Yeppers....I did some side by side testing drag racing against my buds. I changed gearing from 24/38 to 24/40. The bottom gear is easy to change & a cheapie Polaris hyvo bolts right in. I lost acceleration & top speed when I changed gearing & fuel consumption while trail riding went down too. I know there will be individuals that will disagree but my side by side race testing & trail riding experience was that gearing down was a negative on my 03 RX-1 before turboization.
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks to both of you. I am looking for a little mors acceleration. I am running the ECP kit and Matts clutching. I am still trying to get the primary right. I rev out at about 10,4. Should be around 10,2?????? 
MOTOWN SPEEDFREEK
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ive got 2 sleds ,both with reverse.1 has 23/38, the other has 22/38. both very quick, like 23/38, leaves good and dont lose top end.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
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10400 marginally more power than 10200.
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I think I might try the 23 top gear and see what happens. So I should and try for to clutch for 10,3 to 10,5. If I change the top gear I shouldnt have to change the chain as it's only one tooth. Does this sound correct??
Turk
Tech Advisor
The RX-1,s in my area were faster at under 10,200 rpm then at 10,300 plus. Proved this by racing against same sleds the same day with same conditions with clutching running from 9600-10,500 rpm.Musta got a bad batch of RX-1,s.
I found the same thing Turk, my sled got slower when I clutched to run 10,5. Kept throwing weight at it and just kept getting faster.
Black 1000
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Excellent. This is a great site and all the input is awsome. Thanks to all the guys who take the time to respond and I will try everything as I love to make things go faster.
Skydog
TY 4 Stroke God
Black 1000 over the many years of sleding i have found Turk to be about right every time! This is one guy i realy trust.
Skydog
Skydog
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
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There is more to it than just RPM. If you simply don't have enough weight, then the clutch is probably slipping, so adding more weight will improve the efficiency, and thus the speed. Adding the weight AND tightening the secondary might get the rpms back up AND improve speed.
L.B. You just raised a question that I have been wondering about for some time. If the weight is not heavy enough, won't the RPM increase to produce the required force? In other words why would the clutch slip instead of increase RPMs? I have noticed that the engine side of my primary gets pretty warm. So, maybe its slipping! :shock:
Highmiler
Expert
Gearing
Black 1000, Ive had a few RX-1's over the years and have tried all kinds of clutch kits, including the Dalton, Heavy hitters from Simon Cpr, and Heelclickers. Which kit is the best is a topic that we could all argue about till the cows come home. In my opinion all kits work well in certain conditions. The reason these kits work better is because they all use a lighter weight, which allows the sled to spool up quicker, therfore accelerating faster. However there is a price to be paid for these gains that are aquired. The lighter weights hinder gas mileage, they give the front clutch less squeezing force thereby allowing the belt to slip, turning your clutch sheaves black and only allotting you 1500 miles out of a belt. Lastly,I ride on open lakes, rivers, railbeds, and groomed fire roads
where you cruise at speeds over a 100mph for hours on end. Most of my racing, my buddies and I only grab it at 85-90 mph and then we race for miles at wide open throttle.
Having gotten off of an xcr 800 and fleecing everything in site and then getting on this Yamaha, as much as I love the sled, boys I gutta tell you, as far as racing, I was sucking pond water. So I found this site and started reading. (I only started posting a few weeks ago, but have been reading for years.) It is here that I found information on all the clutch kits listed above. These kits are great for racing 1000 feet, but I don't ride 1000 feet at a time, I ride miles on end. All of these light weights, don't have the tip mass of the stock weights, therefore on my topend binges, I was getting better results with stock weights. So I decided the only way to get any speed out of this RX-1 is figure out a way to get the stock weights to work. I noticed that even in the best conditions, the belt would never even come close to shifting out. So I geared down to a 24/40. My sled was faster take off, midrange, topend. This went against averything I learned while clutching Polaris's. The belt still wouldn't reach the top so I geared down again to 23/40. My sled was faster takeoff, midrange, and topend. As a matter of fact in ideal conditions I hit 137 on speedo with
these gears. Getting greedy I geared down again to 22/40. There I lost everywhere and went back the best ratio of 23/40. I tried a couple of aftermarket kits with these gears, and as Turk stated yes I did lose topend.
On another note, sometime ago I read a post on this site by a gentleman by the name of Blackjohn. If I recall correctly, his findings were pretty much the same as mine except that he was running a RX-1 mountain spring in the front clutch, and 5/16 lock washers beween his helix and clutch.(This lets the clutch shift out farther like an overdrive.) Although, I never saw any gains in my testing with the 5/16 washers, the RX-1 mountain front spring is the cats meow. I don't know how to find old posts, but maybe someone here can find it. Furthermore maybe Mr. Blackjohn himself can enlighten us some more.
Let it be known that these are only the results of MY findings. (Lazybastard please go easy on me
)
Black 1000, Ive had a few RX-1's over the years and have tried all kinds of clutch kits, including the Dalton, Heavy hitters from Simon Cpr, and Heelclickers. Which kit is the best is a topic that we could all argue about till the cows come home. In my opinion all kits work well in certain conditions. The reason these kits work better is because they all use a lighter weight, which allows the sled to spool up quicker, therfore accelerating faster. However there is a price to be paid for these gains that are aquired. The lighter weights hinder gas mileage, they give the front clutch less squeezing force thereby allowing the belt to slip, turning your clutch sheaves black and only allotting you 1500 miles out of a belt. Lastly,I ride on open lakes, rivers, railbeds, and groomed fire roads
where you cruise at speeds over a 100mph for hours on end. Most of my racing, my buddies and I only grab it at 85-90 mph and then we race for miles at wide open throttle.
Having gotten off of an xcr 800 and fleecing everything in site and then getting on this Yamaha, as much as I love the sled, boys I gutta tell you, as far as racing, I was sucking pond water. So I found this site and started reading. (I only started posting a few weeks ago, but have been reading for years.) It is here that I found information on all the clutch kits listed above. These kits are great for racing 1000 feet, but I don't ride 1000 feet at a time, I ride miles on end. All of these light weights, don't have the tip mass of the stock weights, therefore on my topend binges, I was getting better results with stock weights. So I decided the only way to get any speed out of this RX-1 is figure out a way to get the stock weights to work. I noticed that even in the best conditions, the belt would never even come close to shifting out. So I geared down to a 24/40. My sled was faster take off, midrange, topend. This went against averything I learned while clutching Polaris's. The belt still wouldn't reach the top so I geared down again to 23/40. My sled was faster takeoff, midrange, and topend. As a matter of fact in ideal conditions I hit 137 on speedo with
these gears. Getting greedy I geared down again to 22/40. There I lost everywhere and went back the best ratio of 23/40. I tried a couple of aftermarket kits with these gears, and as Turk stated yes I did lose topend.
On another note, sometime ago I read a post on this site by a gentleman by the name of Blackjohn. If I recall correctly, his findings were pretty much the same as mine except that he was running a RX-1 mountain spring in the front clutch, and 5/16 lock washers beween his helix and clutch.(This lets the clutch shift out farther like an overdrive.) Although, I never saw any gains in my testing with the 5/16 washers, the RX-1 mountain front spring is the cats meow. I don't know how to find old posts, but maybe someone here can find it. Furthermore maybe Mr. Blackjohn himself can enlighten us some more.
Let it be known that these are only the results of MY findings. (Lazybastard please go easy on me
) black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
clutching
i have found that the stk gearing worked the best for me (24x38)and that the higner i ran the rpm the faster it ran 1st i clutched to 10200 i ran 112 mph on the radar then one night out on the lake on my way home i held it to the pin for about 5 miles and at the end on the dream meter was 140 mph at 10500 and still climeing so i the next day installed my 10500 set up and i pulled 119.2 on the radar. this was with all dalton parts. and with this set up i could out run mach Z,s on top end and trade win,s in drag raceing as well. with the stk 03 track no studs. then i found that i could run the stk arms with the o/p/o primary spring with three 5/16 washers under the studs that hold the helx in place to allow the secondary open more and let the primary close all the way thus letting the belt run a little higher in the primary to get more speed and better exelleration from the stk set up. allso i have a comet pro 4 that i run some times for long rides 2-300 mile days i set it up to run a full 1000 rpm lower than on other rx 1 that in the goup that we ride with and we both got the same milage to the penny at the pump go figure. the o/p/o spring and 5/16 washers is a cheap clutch set up that works well
i have found that the stk gearing worked the best for me (24x38)and that the higner i ran the rpm the faster it ran 1st i clutched to 10200 i ran 112 mph on the radar then one night out on the lake on my way home i held it to the pin for about 5 miles and at the end on the dream meter was 140 mph at 10500 and still climeing so i the next day installed my 10500 set up and i pulled 119.2 on the radar. this was with all dalton parts. and with this set up i could out run mach Z,s on top end and trade win,s in drag raceing as well. with the stk 03 track no studs. then i found that i could run the stk arms with the o/p/o primary spring with three 5/16 washers under the studs that hold the helx in place to allow the secondary open more and let the primary close all the way thus letting the belt run a little higher in the primary to get more speed and better exelleration from the stk set up. allso i have a comet pro 4 that i run some times for long rides 2-300 mile days i set it up to run a full 1000 rpm lower than on other rx 1 that in the goup that we ride with and we both got the same milage to the penny at the pump go figure. the o/p/o spring and 5/16 washers is a cheap clutch set up that works well
