DeerHuntr
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Just wondering what you guys do to your machine get ready for the winter. I have never taken a four stroke sled out of storage before so just wondering. When I stored it I treated the gas with Sea Foam and stored with a full tank of gas. I guess I will probably pump as much gas out of thae tank as i can and top her off with fresh, check all my bogie wheels for bearing failure, new carbides, check hyfax, change oil and ride it. Just wondering what you guys do.
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I do everything when it put it away for the spring. But inbetween seasons do the following
-Change oil
-Check/change hyfax
-Grease all the zerks
-stabilizer to gas, then new gas for the season
-I take a look at the clutch to see how dirty it is.
-check the belt for wear
-Add more goodies!
I'm probably forgetting much more
-Change oil
-Check/change hyfax
-Grease all the zerks
-stabilizer to gas, then new gas for the season
-I take a look at the clutch to see how dirty it is.
-check the belt for wear
-Add more goodies!
I'm probably forgetting much more
rhoag
Expert
All above plus:
- Change chain case oil
- adjust chain
- Use a needle on a grease gun and grease stock yami wheels if you have them.
- clean battery terminals and dielectric grease them
- Depending on miles inspect track (studs,clips, rips etc...) and adjust if needed.
- I use my manometer and check fuel injection synchronization
- test antifreeze (drain some and replace with water wetter or engine ice)
- Check all lights
- start and listen for exhaust leaks (AKA donuts)
- Change chain case oil
- adjust chain
- Use a needle on a grease gun and grease stock yami wheels if you have them.
- clean battery terminals and dielectric grease them
- Depending on miles inspect track (studs,clips, rips etc...) and adjust if needed.
- I use my manometer and check fuel injection synchronization
- test antifreeze (drain some and replace with water wetter or engine ice)
- Check all lights
- start and listen for exhaust leaks (AKA donuts)
2008FxNytro
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How often you guys changin chain case oil? I checked mine a couple times and it was really clean. guess i didnt see need to put new clean oil in if it was still nice and clean...
Snowman07
Expert
Change my gear oil once before the season starts.
Change both chaincase lube as well as motor oil before each season begins. . . .as stated above don't forget to grab a grease gun and hit all the lube points/zerks. . . .fresh lube and oil is probably the easiest thing to do with the greatest overall impact to the longevity of your machine.
thetruck454
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
rhoag said:
What do you mean, do you take the wheels off and shove grease inside them? Can you even grease the bearings?
DaveRX1
Expert
use the grease injection needle, carefully push the needle thru the rubber seal (needle must pass thru the seal between the inner race and the metal ring inside the seal) this takes practice. I grease all my idlers, jack shaft and drive shaft bearings this way. Works great.
viento79
Veteran
Gents, I hope your changing your oil at the end of the last season. Oil exposed to combustion cycle develops an elevated Acid Number. The oil becomes more acidic so it's not a good idea to used oil in the chaincase.
2008FxNytro
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i havent changed my chaincase oil yet....6k on my 08
skoalring11
Pro
2008FxNytro said:
are you proud of that?
2008FxNytro
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was simply stating it. have not had any problems. ive checked it and its still nice and clean. ill prob do it before the snow flies this year.
Would agree that "dirty" oil be it water, dirt, metal shavings, etc. is certainly one component with the other being viscosity breakdown. . . .therefore the inability for oil to stay "adhered" to the engines metal surfaces when the engine itself is not running and provide a layer of protection.
Over time and use the oil just begins to simply loose it's ability to do this - so when the engine get's shut off it all just runs down into the pan.
Then when the engine get's started back up again the oil needs to work it's way back up to the components it couldn't adhere itself too. This time delay causes portions of the engine to run without proper lubrication.
Which is of course never a good thing if you can avoid it.
At this point oil or lube is often also "thinned out" so that when it does finally get between those metal surfaces it no longer creates the barrier it was designed to serve. Leading to yet more wear and tear on the engines components.
The way I look at it - you spend $9+K on the sled and often more when taking into account addtional components or modifications. So spending $50 a season on fresh lube and oil is the cheapest insurance availible.
Over time and use the oil just begins to simply loose it's ability to do this - so when the engine get's shut off it all just runs down into the pan.
Then when the engine get's started back up again the oil needs to work it's way back up to the components it couldn't adhere itself too. This time delay causes portions of the engine to run without proper lubrication.
Which is of course never a good thing if you can avoid it.
At this point oil or lube is often also "thinned out" so that when it does finally get between those metal surfaces it no longer creates the barrier it was designed to serve. Leading to yet more wear and tear on the engines components.
The way I look at it - you spend $9+K on the sled and often more when taking into account addtional components or modifications. So spending $50 a season on fresh lube and oil is the cheapest insurance availible.
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2008FxNytro
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I agree. I change my engine oil at least once a year, and i am changing chaincase this year. I just didnt see it being too critical after one season with the oil being nice and clean but thats just my opinion.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
anybody ever use ER or Energy Release in their chaincase oil? I believe it is just an extra additive for oil.
