DigitalFusion
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Well, thanks to biff and Cannon, I'm going to take a look at an 07 FX with 4100 on the clock tomorrow morning. Here is what I have done/asked. Can you guys think of any other things I should look at/ask?
I plan to really inspect the pivot arm and the spindle/a-arm bushings and steering play. I have no clue what to look at as far as the motor on the phazer is concerned? Any tips on that, or anything else would be appreciated!
- Called Dealer with VIN to check updates (all done but ball joint, and they said I could bring it in and they would do it)
- exhaust donuts have never been done
- front end bushings have never been done
- track is a stock 1" take off with about 10 miles on it
- shocks are stock takeoffs from a base model
- tunnel has been blocked off
I plan to really inspect the pivot arm and the spindle/a-arm bushings and steering play. I have no clue what to look at as far as the motor on the phazer is concerned? Any tips on that, or anything else would be appreciated!
Cubby
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Make sure it has the fan too. Runners are probably shot on the skis too.
DigitalFusion
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the fan was a service bulletin wasnt it? The dealer said it had all of em done except the ball joints.
DF:
Since you won't be able to look at the exhaust doughnuts without pulling the tank, listen carefully and look for leaks directly under or around the tank. If it has reverse, test it out (engagement can be finicky). look the sled over to make sure it has OE fasteners for the plastics (once looked at an '07 with drywall screws holding the plastic over the headlight because the tabs were broken off). If it looks rough cosmetically, check for signs of rollover (bent steering post, a-arms, dented oil tank, etc.) The '07 I looked at was tweaked in a few places. Also, if the sled looks older than the clock shows - compare the condition of the instrument gauge to the overall condition of the sled. Although I had no way of proving it, the '07 I looked at appeared to have been in a roll-over and the gauge looked new, which made me question the actual mileage as compared to what was indicated by the gauge. I know it's a cynical approach to looking at something when you're hoping for the best and I certainly don't want to discourage you ... just throwing it out there, as my first experience with a used Phazer led me astray and ultimately buying from a dealer.
Since you won't be able to look at the exhaust doughnuts without pulling the tank, listen carefully and look for leaks directly under or around the tank. If it has reverse, test it out (engagement can be finicky). look the sled over to make sure it has OE fasteners for the plastics (once looked at an '07 with drywall screws holding the plastic over the headlight because the tabs were broken off). If it looks rough cosmetically, check for signs of rollover (bent steering post, a-arms, dented oil tank, etc.) The '07 I looked at was tweaked in a few places. Also, if the sled looks older than the clock shows - compare the condition of the instrument gauge to the overall condition of the sled. Although I had no way of proving it, the '07 I looked at appeared to have been in a roll-over and the gauge looked new, which made me question the actual mileage as compared to what was indicated by the gauge. I know it's a cynical approach to looking at something when you're hoping for the best and I certainly don't want to discourage you ... just throwing it out there, as my first experience with a used Phazer led me astray and ultimately buying from a dealer.
Ridndirty
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Is the mileage stored in the odometer, or somewhere else on the sled? I assumed that a new speedo would still show the actual miles on the sled.
yamaha1973
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Ridndirty said:Is the mileage stored in the odometer, or somewhere else on the sled? I assumed that a new speedo would still show the actual miles on the sled.
Its all in the meter, new meter = 0 miles
Cubby
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I don't believe the fan was a service bulletin. I paid for mine myself.
Cubby
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Duplicate
Gone Blue
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Look the front a-arm mounts over really close to be sure the front end has not been tweeked. Look to see if the bolts have slid on the frame mounting tabs and if the tabs themselves seem bent. You can also look at the front shock clearance to either side of the upper a-arms. Check the clearances on both sides to see if they are the same. Also look for cracks in the skid suspension arms. If the sled has reverse, be aware that reverse wont engage if the engine RPMs are over 1,900 if I remember correctly. You have to wait for the sled to idle down. Also you might have read that sometimes reverse wont engage unless you rock the sled back and forth.
G.B.
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DigitalFusion
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lots of great info here guys, thanks and keep em coming!
GB: can u elaborate on the shock clearance? Kinda confused on that one?
GB: can u elaborate on the shock clearance? Kinda confused on that one?
These guys got you covered!What he means by shock clearance is the distance from upper a-arm to shock at its closest point.It should be same on left and right arms.If not it could mean arm is bent or worse subframe but that is highly unlikely.Bent upper arm can usually be bent back easily with a 2x4.
DigitalFusion
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OVR4D said:DF:
Since you won't be able to look at the exhaust doughnuts without pulling the tank, listen carefully and look for leaks directly under or around the tank. If it has reverse, test it out (engagement can be finicky). look the sled over to make sure it has OE fasteners for the plastics (once looked at an '07 with drywall screws holding the plastic over the headlight because the tabs were broken off). If it looks rough cosmetically, check for signs of rollover (bent steering post, a-arms, dented oil tank, etc.) The '07 I looked at was tweaked in a few places. Also, if the sled looks older than the clock shows - compare the condition of the instrument gauge to the overall condition of the sled. Although I had no way of proving it, the '07 I looked at appeared to have been in a roll-over and the gauge looked new, which made me question the actual mileage as compared to what was indicated by the gauge. I know it's a cynical approach to looking at something when you're hoping for the best and I certainly don't want to discourage you ... just throwing it out there, as my first experience with a used Phazer led me astray and ultimately buying from a dealer.
thanks man, this was all great info!
DigitalFusion
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cannondale27 said:These guys got you covered!What he means by shock clearance is the distance from upper a-arm to shock at its closest point.It should be same on left and right arms.If not it could mean arm is bent or worse subframe but that is highly unlikely.Bent upper arm can usually be bent back easily with a 2x4.
ahh, gotcha. wouldnt a bent A arm be obvious tho, or is it something that happens that u cant see visually?
yam429
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Like Gone Blue said check the rear skid for cracks in the W arm not sure if that's the correct term but both center and rear shock are connected to it. I know my brother had issues with this on his 07 FX. The newer models are reinforced better.
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Look for cracking in the front arm of the rear skid. They are notorious for cracking. Also, along the pivot link which connects the two shocks. Not just hte link itself but the axle with the inner idler wheels attached, that whole area is weak.
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