Got one (07 Attak GT) & General Questions

[JG231-]

After looking for a month or so online I finally found a sled I thought was worth buying, I 07 Attak with 3300 miles and one owner. I paid $3000 usd for it

I drove 550 miles round trip to Pontiac Mi on 4 hours of sleep to pick it up. It was miserable driving that tired after I got back north of Bay City but I got it done safely ..... Has a New battery, Updated track, LOTS of studs, New 6 in carbides. Sled is in overall great shape, One seat seam loose on the back about 1cm long and a slight bend in the rear bumper from where his wife used it to stop one day lol.. Other then that I'd give this sled a 9/10 as far as condition. Holy SH!T is this beast heavy, I've read all over about them being big and girthy but really had no idea they were just that heavy ....

Only potential issues I saw were it did have a little exhaust noise under the tank when it's first started up and when I lift up on the rear of it, it will lift about an inch before its at its limit of movement.....

My questions are , Where is a good place to get exhaust doughnuts? I'm going to replace them just to know they were done.

OEM doughnuts or copper ones? I've seen people on both sides of the fence as far as yes or now towards copper ones....

Is the movement of the shock normal or does it require service? It has good suspension travel and no evidence of any oil or anything making it past the seals

I've read something about using different plugs in the machine, Should I just stick with stock?

I took two pics last night And will take a few more of it sometime today . Any opinions, comments or insight is appreciated. Thank You, Joshua

 

[steiner]

Congrats on the find. Love my 07 Attak.
Exhaust donuts. You pick. I have had both OEM and copper. Running the copper ones now for the last 10years with no issues. Also have the SS y pipes rather than the stock titanium.
As for the shock. I would have it serviced. Mine are serviced yearly. As far as the travel, check the transfer rod setting and the spring size (rate). A higher spring rate won't travel up very much when unloaded.

 

[JG231-]

Congrats on the find. Love my 07 Attak.
Exhaust donuts. You pick. I have had both OEM and copper. Running the copper ones now for the last 10years with no issues. Also have the SS y pipes rather than the stock titanium.
As for the shock. I would have it serviced. Mine are serviced yearly. As far as the travel, check the transfer rod setting and the spring size (rate). A higher spring rate won't travel up very much when unloaded.

Thank You,

So I decided to confirm my suspicions , The doughnuts are trash, two of the bolts in the clamps aren't coming out, But we have means of removal. I have one more to do. After seeing the trash material the oem ones are made out of I think I'll go copper, I see lots of these on ebay for 20 and 30 dollars a kit. Are these cheap kits good to use?

Should I remove the manifolds from the head and replace the gasket behind them too? The bolts look fairly rusted and I really dont know how I'd remove a broken bolt besides removing the engine ( dont wanna do this) but on the other side if I had issues right now I could fix them before snow fly's and I wouldn't have to worry about down time this winter....

 

[Stubbs]

If the flex pipes are not cracked don’t mess with them, just replace the donuts. Are the flanges in the y-pipes still good?

The FAQ section at the very top of this Apex section will be your friend, almost all of the common questions/concerns you may have are in there.

 

[JG231-]

If the flex pipes are not cracked don’t mess with them, just replace the donuts. Are the flanges in the y-pipes still good?

The FAQ section at the very top of this Apex section will be your friend, almost all of the common questions/concerns you may have are in there.

Too late, there all out, I decided it was worth the risk, 20% of the threads were rusty inside the flex tubes bolt holes , had I waited another year they might have actually broke. I'll find the thread and pitch and pick up some stainless steel bolts and a tap to chase them out and i'll make sure it never happens again.

pertaining to the y pipes , I'm not sure yet, currently reading what rivets need to be punched to get them out, the 5 mm allen bolts you can access are rusted and i wont be able to remove them to slide the pipes back to gain clearance to remove the flex tubes yet so plan b it is lol

I did have enough clearance between the flex tubes and the exhaust port to poke an inspection cam into all of them, Light surface rust on the stems indicated exactly what the original owner said, it sat in an enclosed trailer for a few years idle but other than that the ports look good, I'm rather impressed with the lack of major casting lines.

oh and when I pulled the tank shroud and saw the fuel line and pump power wires, a mouse decided to take the insulation from the negative cable and frayed the hell out of the copper, It totally would have failed this winter so glad I did this .

As for the FAQ section, I've been reading it alot and none of what I've read so far really answered any of my current posted questions.

I'm just wanting this thing to be ready to go as much as it can be so I can spend lots of time riding and no time wrenching lol, Thanks for the reply

 

[Macheater]

While you're in there, it would be worthwhile to inspect the steering linkage bushings and rod ends. The bushings get dry and increase steering effort and can squeak which is annoying. And the steering rod ends can get sloppy as well.

 

[CaptCaper]

I never drill out rivets to take the pipes out or in on 3 Attaks I owned. I dropped the track/suspenion down and left the from bolt in. Simple that way. I used heat from Home Depot Map/Oxygen kit to loosen bolts. New and bolts were used for next time ease of removal.

 

[JG231-]

I never drill out rivets to take the pipes out or in on 3 Attaks I owned. I dropped the track/suspenion down and left the from bolt in. Simple that way. I used heat from Home Depot Map/Oxygen kit to loosen bolts. New and bolts were used for next time ease of removal.

This was long done, I ended up replacing all the hardware and rivets with stainless, They had to be drilled, there was no other way.... ended up getting it back together and got about 400 miles before i cracked a titanium pipe, Someone told me not to use copper gaskets otherwise it'd happen...... It did lol.....I have two stainless pipes getting here on friday and bought a new air riveter to just replace the bolts I used for the rivets I drilled and hopefully wont have to touch the exhaust for many thousands of miles

 

[RobX-1]

IMO, that is the difference between using OEM exhaust gaskets vs copper gaskets. If running the titanium headers, it's best to stick with OEM gaskets but if running SS headers, cooper gaskets are the way to go.

 

[JG231-]

IMO, that is the difference between using OEM exhaust gaskets vs copper gaskets. If running the titanium headers, it's best to stick with OEM gaskets but if running SS headers, cooper gaskets are the way to go.

Yeah, I asked about copper vs stock gaskets on the FB Apex group and one person said it would happen, others openly disagreed with his opinion..... I went with the majority opinion and the one guy who said it would happen was right lol. Steel headers will be here Friday, one new from port yamaha (thanks buddy) and one used off of a 2010 apex in Quebec that I got for 100 usd shipped

 

[CaptCaper]

This was long done, I ended up replacing all the hardware and rivets with stainless, They had to be drilled, there was no other way.... ended up getting it back together and got about 400 miles before i cracked a titanium pipe, Someone told me not to use copper gaskets otherwise it'd happen...... It did lol.....I have two stainless pipes getting here on friday and bought a new air riveter to just replace the bolts I used for the rivets I drilled and hopefully wont have to touch the exhaust for many thousands of miles

My Ti pipe cracked with OEM's so don't fret. Too bad you didn't catch the fact you have to use SS pipe no mater what donuts. Best way to go. I put on 9500 miles on my first Attak, 12000 miles on 2nd 5000 on third until I got into 2016 vector xtx. Never had problems with oem rivets for exhust. And never drilled them out. I guess if you do that you don't have to drop the rear of the skid to get the pipes out. And did donut changes on all 3 machines as well as my wifes 2011 vector ltx that went 1100 before trading in on a 2013 vector ltx for her.