SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Looked for one everywhere...finally found one at NAPA. Also found this artcile online...(I am a bit of an EXPERT when it comes to finding stuff online :? )
http://www.cycoactive.com/mc/trail_tips/tip_bearing.html
http://www.cycoactive.com/mc/trail_tips/tip_bearing.html
kmer
Expert
RX Wonder,
Can I nominate you for the forum's "official finder of online gems"? :lol:
Can I nominate you for the forum's "official finder of online gems"? :lol:
Bob Miller
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2003
- Messages
- 1,322
- Location
- New Milford CT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Present Sled: 2011 Yamaha Apex 128
Good job RX Wonder Very good information 8)
kmer
Expert
The driveaxle bearing (pto side) is NTN UB205
The royaldistributing part no is 04-156-030R ... it's CDN$20.
http://www.royaldistributing.com/servle ... e=130.html
The royaldistributing part no is 04-156-030R ... it's CDN$20.
http://www.royaldistributing.com/servle ... e=130.html
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
RX you are a wonder. Thanks.
rx1mtn
Expert
I have to say THANK YOU to you guys about this thread. I got my sled out yesterday and in doing my preseason check I decided to check front driveshaft bearing. It was JUNK, all the other bearingings seem just fine. I'll grease them, but what is the deal with the left drive axle bearing? Is water getting in from washing the sled? I'll get a new bearing and every time I do a preride check I'll lube that 1 for sure.
Snorover
Expert
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2003
- Messages
- 366
- Age
- 87
- Location
- Kittery/Fayette,Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Viper
Checked my drive shaft bearing and jack shaft bearing today and they both were ok, I just added some grease using the hollow needle.
Thanks RX1 Yooper for the info on the hollow needle, sure makes greasing the bearings easy.
Next will be the bearings in the wheels.
Thanks RX1 Yooper for the info on the hollow needle, sure makes greasing the bearings easy.
Next will be the bearings in the wheels.
I checked the bearings today. They were a bit dry, but in good shape. I greesed them using the needle greeser.
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Guys...Kmer and I have discussed these bearings quite extensively on MSN so I decided to ask my dealer (I am not too comfortable with doing this ) about changing it for me. First of all the drive axle bearing (under the speedo sensor) is only rated for about 2000 miles. It's not a huge job as I thought to change as I am only paying about $100 for both the bearing AND the labour.
Also found an interesting tidbit for those of us who are on our second year with these machines....the rear idlers wheels (very back of the skid) are prone to failure if you ride high miles and are "one piece" which means that each wheel/bearing to replace is about $100 each :shock: . If mine are dead he replaces all the RX1's with SRX wheels as you can replace the bearings in the SRX wheels and it is much cheaper going forward.
He also told me that about 70% of his machines came back with "hairline" cracks in the A-Arm (front piece in the rear skid). If that thing lets go it will cost a ton of $$$ as it potentially takes out your track, shock, drive axle and more..he is just going to weld mine up to re-inforce it for me to prevent this from happening.
Also found an interesting tidbit for those of us who are on our second year with these machines....the rear idlers wheels (very back of the skid) are prone to failure if you ride high miles and are "one piece" which means that each wheel/bearing to replace is about $100 each :shock: . If mine are dead he replaces all the RX1's with SRX wheels as you can replace the bearings in the SRX wheels and it is much cheaper going forward.
He also told me that about 70% of his machines came back with "hairline" cracks in the A-Arm (front piece in the rear skid). If that thing lets go it will cost a ton of $$$ as it potentially takes out your track, shock, drive axle and more..he is just going to weld mine up to re-inforce it for me to prevent this from happening.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
ha ha
cat skid cat skid
ha ha
just kidding ....
as for wheels at the fare back buy srx wheels and get ti over with
or buy the after maket wheels like any color you want.
as for the bearing on the clutch side you should change it every year..
the bearing is only 22$ and its takes about 20 mins to change it ther eis only 1 bearing.. the other is in the chain case ... it dont need to be changed as much
cat skid cat skid
ha ha
just kidding ....
as for wheels at the fare back buy srx wheels and get ti over with
or buy the after maket wheels like any color you want.
as for the bearing on the clutch side you should change it every year..
the bearing is only 22$ and its takes about 20 mins to change it ther eis only 1 bearing.. the other is in the chain case ... it dont need to be changed as much
Bob Miller
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2003
- Messages
- 1,322
- Location
- New Milford CT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Present Sled: 2011 Yamaha Apex 128
That doesn't sound like the Yamaha quality that I'm use to :roll: I just sold my 1999 Yamaha 700 Deluxe with 8300 miles on it, and I never had any bearing failures on it
So now I have a brand new 04 Warrior and Yamaha is using cheaper components What's up with that?
So now I have a brand new 04 Warrior and Yamaha is using cheaper components What's up with that?
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