Handlebar alignment

[Yamahammer485]

Im glad everyone else hear has mentioned the steering coincidence, my bars always seemed to be turned to the right, just a little bit, when going in a straight line. I thought I was going crazy, and just imagining it, like as if the bar pad was actually off center or something and making it seem like the steering is off, but it really is the bars being turned to far right.

Now I know how to adjust them and im sure im not just imagining things now.

 

[Superman]

I've noticed My bars are slightly off to the right on My 06' Attak.

 

[welterracer]

I think they do this for a reason... Not sure what.. but there must be a reason..

Mine too is off.. Drives me nuts... But the thought of adjusting those hard to get at tie rod end nuts makes me forget about it..

 

[06RTXRider]

Mine was off as well, dealer adjusted last year for free and has been great ever since except for the worn bushings in the a-arms.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Interesting. My Attak's bars were straight as an arrow from the dealer.

I did change toe for my Slydogs....bit of a PITA to reach the inside lock nuts there, especially on the right side. Left side I could squeeze my arm and a wrench in there by just loosening the headlight and air box. But to reach the right side I had to tear it all the way down to the battery tray just like doing an oil change...

I REALLY miss simple flip open hoods for these types of simple adjustments. Servicing this thing generally sucks, thank God it doesn't seem to need too much.

The inside tie rod end jam nuts can be reached from the outside. It is not necessary to reach them from under the hood. Simply pull out the lower leading edge of the rubber boot surrounding the tie rod on each side of the bulkhead. Then turn the skis full left and right. The jam nut will extend out enough to reach from the outside. Much easier than trying to get to them from under the hood. Toe angle and slight corrections ragarding handle bar alighnment are done with these tie rods.

If you desire to change the handle bar position without affecting ski toe angle at all, you'll find another tie rod horizontally positioned quite high...Above the jackshaft. Adjustments can be made by removing the secondary and using SHORT wrenches or "Crows Feet".

 

[craze1cars]

The inside tie rod end jam nuts can be reached from the outside. It is not necessary to reach them from under the hood. Simply pull out the lower leading edge of the rubber boot surrounding the tie rod on each side of the bulkhead. Then turn the skis full left and right. The jam nut will extend out enough to reach from the outside. Much easier than trying to get to them from under the hood. Toe angle and slight corrections ragarding handle bar alighnment are done with these tie rods.

Thank you! I'm obviously still learning all the ins and outs of efficiently servicing these things. I actually stared at that boot for some time before disassembling mine wondering if I could get through there somehow...never occurred to me to give it a full turn left or right before peeling it back. Dumba**!!!

Oh well...the extra practice session of pulling the battery box just makes me that much more familiar with oil filter change tear-down procedures. I appreciate the tip and will definitely go that route if I ever need to tweak my toe or alignment again.

I love this site for eureka moments such as this...

 

[schmeg]

Thanks Doug! This info is just what I needed. My alignment seems fine, I'll go the upper tie rod route. Yes, this is a great site.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Thanks Doug! This info is just what I needed. My alignment seems fine, I'll go the upper tie rod route. Yes, this is a great site.

You're welcome! It is easy to get at one of the jam nuts (Located just behind the brake rotor), the other will require some patience.

 

[NHAPEXGT]

hey have you guys seen play in the steering bars. I have some play in the bars. I can move them left and right without the ski's moving.

 

[KnappAttack]

You don't need to adjust the steering on the Apex/Attak. All you need to do is take off the steering pad and loosen the four bolts that hold the bars and riser, and push the bars in the direction they need to go. There is a great deal of movement to be had in the bolt holes in the riser. Very quick and easy, try it. That is why they are off in the first place as the bars are installed by the dealers. Mike Knapp#17

 

[Sparky18]

Adjust from the riser, thats interesting! My bars have been adjusted by the dealer twice and they still are off to the right. It is weird though because if you measure them stem to stern they are dead on.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Adjust from the riser, thats interesting! My bars have been adjusted by the dealer twice and they still are off to the right. It is weird though because if you measure them stem to stern they are dead on.

I have not tried to adjust the bar position at the riser (Yet) I'm going to give it a try if there is a next time though. My first Attak this season was off (You guessed it) to the right and my second Attak is right on - straight ahead.

Sparky18,

I would suggest you try (If you have not already done this) setting your ski alignment relative to the track. You do this by using a long straight 2x4 (10' long or so) or similar item, place it on the floor along either side of the track and extend it up between the skis. Set your alignment by measuring to your straight edge individually for each ski. You will find that opon using this method of aligning to the track, that this will reveal if the handle bars are off center. Set your handle bar position (Last step of the alignment) with the straight egde still in place along the track making sure the skis remain in the straight ahead position. I bet you end up with straight bars when you take it for a test drive!

Second tip: Set your alignment after any changes to the front ride height. and set the toe angle with your weight on the sled (Have a friend of about your same weight sit on the seat while aligning the skis) It is a minor thing, but the toe angle changes slighlty as the front suspension travels. Aligning it (Loaded) will produce the most accurate results.

 

[schmeg]

How bout just using the 5/8th pipe through the spindle trick?

 

[Soldier'spapa]

How bout just using the 5/8th pipe through the spindle trick?

Using this method can provide for accurate enough toe angle settings but will not take into account the track position.

 

[sinjin]

quote="Sparky18"] It is a minor thing, but the toe angle changes slighlty as the front suspension travels. Aligning it (Loaded) will produce the most accurate results.[/quote]

I have found that the toe angle can change by a couple of centimeters from when the front is in the air to when you lower it back down on the floor. Always changed to more toe out when loaded