natedawgedog
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wanting to get some new handlebars, the xtx's stock bars are not cutting it for me anymore (plus they are bent a little bit from last years ruckus) for the guys that have put on aftermarket bars in the mountain section what do you prefer and why? I am possibly going to clean up the bars also and relocate some of the switches to other places on the sled.
right now I have a 2.5" rox riser with the stock xtx handlebars. Im 6'2 and could possibly go down .5" to 1" in the total height, there are sometimes riding where I think they are just a lil'bit too high.
right now I have a 2.5" rox riser with the stock xtx handlebars. Im 6'2 and could possibly go down .5" to 1" in the total height, there are sometimes riding where I think they are just a lil'bit too high.
Off Trail Mike
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Nate:
I'm 6 feet and run a 6" riser on my MTX and the same 2.5 ROX riser on the XTX. In both cases I run the OFT relocator as well so it really depends on what you want.
I can say this, when I am powder riding, 6" is about the minimum I would go. I ride standing up, and to get the leverage, I wouldn't go much shorter than 6. On the XTX, I would agree, if you are a solid trail rider the ROX has a bit of the "ape hanger" feel, but certianly not that annoying so it's a good comprimise for a trial rider that occasionally rips it up in the powder
To me, if you run one sled, then some sort of adjustable length riser might be worth a try. Running an XTX tho, you will need to extend cables to give you the flexiblity to easily adjust length.
On the subject of cleaning off your bars...it is definitely worth the effort. I hate cluttered bars, so I run the CR racing throttle, Arctic Cat brake (which includes the headlight hi/lo on the brake lever) and a pro tether. Heater controls are now down above my gas cap, and kill switch and park brake are gone. LIghter and simpler, and don't miss anything.
If you are hunting bars, lots to choose from. I run CR racing steering post, RSI riser and CR flat bars with hooks, but there are so many choices, pretty much anything will work.
OTM
I'm 6 feet and run a 6" riser on my MTX and the same 2.5 ROX riser on the XTX. In both cases I run the OFT relocator as well so it really depends on what you want.
I can say this, when I am powder riding, 6" is about the minimum I would go. I ride standing up, and to get the leverage, I wouldn't go much shorter than 6. On the XTX, I would agree, if you are a solid trail rider the ROX has a bit of the "ape hanger" feel, but certianly not that annoying so it's a good comprimise for a trial rider that occasionally rips it up in the powder
To me, if you run one sled, then some sort of adjustable length riser might be worth a try. Running an XTX tho, you will need to extend cables to give you the flexiblity to easily adjust length.
On the subject of cleaning off your bars...it is definitely worth the effort. I hate cluttered bars, so I run the CR racing throttle, Arctic Cat brake (which includes the headlight hi/lo on the brake lever) and a pro tether. Heater controls are now down above my gas cap, and kill switch and park brake are gone. LIghter and simpler, and don't miss anything.
If you are hunting bars, lots to choose from. I run CR racing steering post, RSI riser and CR flat bars with hooks, but there are so many choices, pretty much anything will work.
OTM
HighSpeedLowDrag
Pro
I use Renthal 1 1/8" aluminum fatbars with internal Polyheater cartridges, heat shrink tubing for insulation under RSI heat tape heaters with shrink tube over the wire end for protection. RSI hook and grip on the left and Pro Taper aluminum twist throttle tube with a 40mm cam on the right using a throttle housing and cables from a Honda dirt bike.
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APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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I have the Pro bars from a POO RMK on my apex mtx and like them a lot. They can take a good hit and live.lol 

natedawgedog
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thanks for the replies guys. being 6'2" and ape-like arms (6'5" wingspan) I have a lot of leverage to pull it on its sides, even with the 42" wide stock front end. Ill be putting on cr racing's +3-37" before the snow flies this year so I imagine its going to be even easier to throw around, thus kinda wanting to go with the same height, maybe an inch shorter.
Apex, are the pro bars the same profile as the nytro's? I haven't really looked into using the pro's pro-taper bars.
highspeed, interesting setup you have there, ive been riding snowmobiles for way to long to be switching to a moto-style throttle now. but on another note, how do you like the thicker bars and the poly-heaters?
I think I've been doing to much reading on the subject and just don't know what to choose now, so many variables... bar-height, thickness, degree's of rake, width, aluminum, cro-mo, Ti, c-f... and more this is why I am looking for more peoples input. and thanks for the suggestions so far fellas!
Apex, are the pro bars the same profile as the nytro's? I haven't really looked into using the pro's pro-taper bars.
highspeed, interesting setup you have there, ive been riding snowmobiles for way to long to be switching to a moto-style throttle now. but on another note, how do you like the thicker bars and the poly-heaters?
I think I've been doing to much reading on the subject and just don't know what to choose now, so many variables... bar-height, thickness, degree's of rake, width, aluminum, cro-mo, Ti, c-f... and more this is why I am looking for more peoples input. and thanks for the suggestions so far fellas!
APEX 06
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natedawgedog said:thanks for the replies guys. being 6'2" and ape-like arms (6'5" wingspan) I have a lot of leverage to pull it on its sides, even with the 42" wide stock front end. Ill be putting on cr racing's +3-37" before the snow flies this year so I imagine its going to be even easier to throw around, thus kinda wanting to go with the same height, maybe an inch shorter.
Apex, are the pro bars the same profile as the nytro's? I haven't really looked into using the pro's pro-taper bars.
highspeed, interesting setup you have there, ive been riding snowmobiles for way to long to be switching to a moto-style throttle now. but on another note, how do you like the thicker bars and the poly-heaters?
I think I've been doing to much reading on the subject and just don't know what to choose now, so many variables... bar-height, thickness, degree's of rake, width, aluminum, cro-mo, Ti, c-f... and more this is why I am looking for more peoples input. and thanks for the suggestions so far fellas!
They are and they are not the same profile.lol I still use a snowmobile throttle I had to have a throttle block CNC (good Friends) because I did like the moto-style throttle. With the thicker bars I only notice when I come off of a buddy's sled, they till me they like it better then there bars and with a set of Klim gloves it seems all the same to me. If I have to replace my XTX bars I will do it the same way.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Do you use the stock " plastic flipper " on the CR throttle block ?
Off Trail Mike said:Nate:
I'm 6 feet and run a 6" riser on my MTX and the same 2.5 ROX riser on the XTX. In both cases I run the OFT relocator as well so it really depends on what you want.
I can say this, when I am powder riding, 6" is about the minimum I would go. I ride standing up, and to get the leverage, I wouldn't go much shorter than 6. On the XTX, I would agree, if you are a solid trail rider the ROX has a bit of the "ape hanger" feel, but certianly not that annoying so it's a good comprimise for a trial rider that occasionally rips it up in the powder
To me, if you run one sled, then some sort of adjustable length riser might be worth a try. Running an XTX tho, you will need to extend cables to give you the flexiblity to easily adjust length.
On the subject of cleaning off your bars...it is definitely worth the effort. I hate cluttered bars, so I run the CR racing throttle, Arctic Cat brake (which includes the headlight hi/lo on the brake lever) and a pro tether. Heater controls are now down above my gas cap, and kill switch and park brake are gone. LIghter and simpler, and don't miss anything.
If you are hunting bars, lots to choose from. I run CR racing steering post, RSI riser and CR flat bars with hooks, but there are so many choices, pretty much anything will work.
OTM
Off Trail Mike
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SD....Yes is the answer
I did it to preserve the thumb heater from the Nytro which is a good setup IMHO.
If you go that way, replace the circlip that holds the pivot pin. Had that flipper come off when turning out of a climb....snow....sky...snow...sky....repeat until you stop!
In my opinion, it is single use, and should be replaced, no matter how gentle you are at removing it. It is not because of the CR Throttle, I'd change the circlip for any situation where you remove the throttle lever pivot pin. I also drilled a hole at the end of the pivot pin (below the circlip) for insurance.
Here's the setup. You can also see the CNC machined wiring channel for the grip heater wire (detailed thinking there Chad!)
OTM


And the cockpit.......

I did it to preserve the thumb heater from the Nytro which is a good setup IMHO.
If you go that way, replace the circlip that holds the pivot pin. Had that flipper come off when turning out of a climb....snow....sky...snow...sky....repeat until you stop!
In my opinion, it is single use, and should be replaced, no matter how gentle you are at removing it. It is not because of the CR Throttle, I'd change the circlip for any situation where you remove the throttle lever pivot pin. I also drilled a hole at the end of the pivot pin (below the circlip) for insurance.
Here's the setup. You can also see the CNC machined wiring channel for the grip heater wire (detailed thinking there Chad!)
OTM


And the cockpit.......

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