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has anyone ran 0w-20 synthetic


per mobil one and amsoil..
for example, the additive package is stronger...anti rust for longer durations between use...

it's not wet clutch that's obviously not the issue....it's the wet starter?....the chief yamah service rep said they've seen failures with synthetics on this...
 
If there were, there would be reports of it here. There have been NO failures of this type. That service rep was just panicky regarding the label that says to avoid energy-conserving-II, which was just copied from the bike manual since it is, for the most part, the same engine, but with a wet clutch.
 
sj said:
please tell me your opinions
my opinion is that a 0w-20 will not give you the protection you need at a highger engine temp. when running. the oil will break down quicker and will not protect to the degree that you need, basically the oil will become to thin. the 0w part of that is great! it will give you good cold cranking ability, basically the oil will still flow in a negative 40 temp. i would look for something with a broader viscosity range! at least a 0w-30 or 0w-40
of course i am kind of partial but Amsoil makes a great 0w-40 specially formulated for 4 stroke motors!
 
I just spoke to allen ulmer ....he gave his seal of approval for 20 weight ...in fact he has run 0 weight !!!..
 
I dunno....20 sounds scary to me. I'm running the 0-40 in my supercharged sled. We'll see how it works out for me. I'll have a birds eye view when I pull the head later in the season to add more boost.

-1CS
 
Then run it sj looks like your sold on it. I myself think the benefit does not warrant the risk if it does not protect like it should. If its synthetic though I doubt you would see problems. I am sticking with the Amsoil 0w-40 full synthetic 4 stroke oil engineered for this application.
 
I'm not really...just seeking opinions....rockerdan (machzed) also has endorsed 0w-20 or 5w-20
 
The power loss from a 40 as compared to a 20 weight would be so minimal on a dry sump system such as this I doubt it could be picked up on a dyno.
 
this is something i have posted in the past

hope fully this can help you understand the grading system for oil. after reading maybe it will help you decide!
:jump:

Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:25 pm Post subject:

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hopefully this can desrcibe viscosity!.......
the society of automotive engineers(SAE) have established 12 different viscosity grades. vicosity grades will determine the oils dynamic viscosity and kinematic viscosity.
the dynamic viscosity is the first # you see usually followed by a W , which , yes , you can associate that # with winter to help you think of how it performs in cold weather.the SAE has determined 6 grades of "winter" formulas beginning with 0W and working up to 25W in 5 point incriments. what they are measureing with this is the lubricants ability to pump 60,000centipointe units with no yield stress at certain temps. for ex.
0W = 60,000 cP @-40*C
5W = 60,000 cP @-35*C
10W = 60,000 cP @ -30*C and so on till 25Wwhich is 60,000 cP@-15
basically the smaller the # the better protection for colder temps.

the next # measures the lubricants ability to pour or its kinemetric viscosity, which is measured by the time it takes an oil to pour out of a container. the temp. is always consistant at 100*C (212*F)
this is #ered from 20 -60 in 10 pt incriments and is measured using sabolt universal second(sus) for ex.
sae20@100*c will empty in min.5.6sus and a max. of9.3sus
30 = 9.3sus - 12.5sus
40 = 12.5sus- 16.3sus
60 = 21.9sus - 26.1sus
in other words the oil will empty out of the container just by pouring in 5.6 seconds (roughly) to 9.3 seconds
remember you do not want your oil viscosity to thin in hot temps. because you will lose you ability to lubricate and protect your engine.

a good ex is this. a truck driver leaves florida with a load of oranges heading for minnesota, in fla. he runs SAE 30 oil because of the ambient temp. in fla. when he (or she) get to min. the driver finds the SAE 30 is to viscious or thick to handle the sub zero temps and is having a hard time starting the vehicle. after changing oil to an SAE 15W the starting problem is solved and he can continue on. when he gets back to fla. he finds the SAE 15W is to thin due to the high temps. in fla. therefore the lubricant can not protect the engine like it should.
thus they have made multi viscosity oils. the point is not that a certain oil is thicker or thinner because under different circumstances they will all flow the same it just depends on the temp. of the product.
hnow many times have we been in the north woods and the temp. has been -30* one day and 30* the next? i've seen it! make sure you choose an oil that is best for your climate and has a broad viscosity range to cover those sudden changes in weather!
basically the ultimate protection for any motor would be a 0W-60 but the viscosity range of that oil is nearly impossible to achieve
i run amsoil 0W-40 four stroke in mine and i love it!
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