muskrat
Pro
HELP!
Here is the story.
I was grass dragging my RX-1 TWO Septembers ago and hooked it to a cool down cart between runs. I saw a large air bubble go into engine and heard a concerning noise, like a cracking noise, when we turned the pump on. The next run, she blew anti-freeze out the overflow. Thought I may have cracked something. I had the head looked at and the gasket replaced. The gasket was definately blown. The head looked fine according to the shop that did the work. Also, at this time I added a front mount turbo. The head gasket leaked oil at idle because it was not made correctly. Cometic sent me a new one and it is still in the box. (Ya I should have listened and stack two Yamaha gaskets.) I had the shop put a stock Yamaha gasket in and proceeded to clutch my sled. I did several full throttle launches and took the sled to about 120 mph. Everything seemed fine until the engine heated up and I started blowing anti-freeze at full throttle again. If I let the sled sit a day I could do maybe one full throttle run and not blow anti freeze. Once the engine heated up it started blowing at full throttle again. I was a few miles from home and by the time I got home I was low on fluid. Max temp I saw was about 185. I thought the head must be warped or cracked so I, (I have time this year) I took the head off. The gasket appeared to be ok, not noticably blown like the first one. Oh ya, when I checked the torque on the head bolts they were less than 50 and one stud was not bottomed out in the block. ( It could have loosened when I loosened that head nut.) That particular head bolt did not pop lose like the rest. The head was sent to a shop and it is flat, square, and pressure tested. They can't find a thing wrong with the head.
What to do now.
I am looking for opinions of what you all think. Should I tear the bottom half apart and have that pressure tested. I have NO coolant in the oil. Had a little oil in the coolant system but I think that was contaminated when the shop pulled the head off. Also, had flacks of copper coat in the coolant? I hate to put L C pistons in and spend more money and time to find I have the same problem. I am VERY frustrated.
Could the head be looseneing somehow during the heat cycle? I remember a post where someone had to re-torque their head after replacing the gasket. This sucks not knowing what is wrong and not being able to ride.
Anyone have a COMPLETE procedure for installing head gasket and cams? How do I keep the cams from moving when I tighten the chain?
Sorry about the long post, I wanted to get the info out there and see what you all think.
Thanks for any ideas and Happy Holidays to everyone!
Muskrat
Here is the story.
I was grass dragging my RX-1 TWO Septembers ago and hooked it to a cool down cart between runs. I saw a large air bubble go into engine and heard a concerning noise, like a cracking noise, when we turned the pump on. The next run, she blew anti-freeze out the overflow. Thought I may have cracked something. I had the head looked at and the gasket replaced. The gasket was definately blown. The head looked fine according to the shop that did the work. Also, at this time I added a front mount turbo. The head gasket leaked oil at idle because it was not made correctly. Cometic sent me a new one and it is still in the box. (Ya I should have listened and stack two Yamaha gaskets.) I had the shop put a stock Yamaha gasket in and proceeded to clutch my sled. I did several full throttle launches and took the sled to about 120 mph. Everything seemed fine until the engine heated up and I started blowing anti-freeze at full throttle again. If I let the sled sit a day I could do maybe one full throttle run and not blow anti freeze. Once the engine heated up it started blowing at full throttle again. I was a few miles from home and by the time I got home I was low on fluid. Max temp I saw was about 185. I thought the head must be warped or cracked so I, (I have time this year) I took the head off. The gasket appeared to be ok, not noticably blown like the first one. Oh ya, when I checked the torque on the head bolts they were less than 50 and one stud was not bottomed out in the block. ( It could have loosened when I loosened that head nut.) That particular head bolt did not pop lose like the rest. The head was sent to a shop and it is flat, square, and pressure tested. They can't find a thing wrong with the head.
What to do now.
I am looking for opinions of what you all think. Should I tear the bottom half apart and have that pressure tested. I have NO coolant in the oil. Had a little oil in the coolant system but I think that was contaminated when the shop pulled the head off. Also, had flacks of copper coat in the coolant? I hate to put L C pistons in and spend more money and time to find I have the same problem. I am VERY frustrated.
Could the head be looseneing somehow during the heat cycle? I remember a post where someone had to re-torque their head after replacing the gasket. This sucks not knowing what is wrong and not being able to ride.
Anyone have a COMPLETE procedure for installing head gasket and cams? How do I keep the cams from moving when I tighten the chain?
Sorry about the long post, I wanted to get the info out there and see what you all think.
Thanks for any ideas and Happy Holidays to everyone!
Muskrat
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
Sounds like you didn't get all the air out of the system after the repair, air pockets cause serious hot spots and boil the Antifreeze.
I use a Vacuum system to fill the cooling system, Snap On sells them.
It sucks all the air out of the system before filling.
Hope this helps
I use a Vacuum system to fill the cooling system, Snap On sells them.
It sucks all the air out of the system before filling.
Hope this helps
peteracing
Expert
How much boost are you running?, and, you should install
heavy duty studs, BIG difference
...
heavy duty studs, BIG difference
...muskrat
Pro
Gasket
Thanks for the replys.
Ted, I like that idea A LOT. I will be getting one of those from Snap on. I wondered if the system was bled correctly when I was getting different temp reading with my laser temp gauge throughout the system. I do get weird readings on the O2 gauge when it starts blowing anti freeze which is why I thought it may be getting into the cylinders too. As the engine warms up the meter starts jumping around, like one cylinder is leaning. Frustrating.
Peteracing,
I am only running 8 and 10 and I bought and installed heavy duty studs from Simon. I can't get a hold of him to find out what the torque procedure is for these heavy duty bolts. A shop did the initial install. I know the final is 50-55 , seems low to me. I really need to know what the exact procedure is, like the initial torque spec. Any intermediate? I don't even know who made the studs. Oh well, maybe Jeff will call me back someday. I am about ready to sell this thing but it is so fast, what a rush.
Thanks again and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
Thanks for the replys.
Ted, I like that idea A LOT. I will be getting one of those from Snap on. I wondered if the system was bled correctly when I was getting different temp reading with my laser temp gauge throughout the system. I do get weird readings on the O2 gauge when it starts blowing anti freeze which is why I thought it may be getting into the cylinders too. As the engine warms up the meter starts jumping around, like one cylinder is leaning. Frustrating.
Peteracing,
I am only running 8 and 10 and I bought and installed heavy duty studs from Simon. I can't get a hold of him to find out what the torque procedure is for these heavy duty bolts. A shop did the initial install. I know the final is 50-55 , seems low to me. I really need to know what the exact procedure is, like the initial torque spec. Any intermediate? I don't even know who made the studs. Oh well, maybe Jeff will call me back someday. I am about ready to sell this thing but it is so fast, what a rush.
Thanks again and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
Ted Jannetty said:
That was what i was going to say! Mac sells one two they work ok. I would rasie the rear of the sled off the grond. Take that bleed screw out. Fill tank and let back of sled down real slow. When you have all coolant coming out. Put bolt in and fill tank.
Skydog
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
At 50 55 lbs. you may have pulled the threads out of the block.
10 mm studs should be torqued around 40 lbs.
10 mm studs should be torqued around 40 lbs.
