Header torque spec

[gucciboy]

I am in the process of installing a powderlites GT25 kit and was looking for info on header bolt torque. I dont know about you guys but my fat fingers made the install a pain in the #*$&@ & only the 2 outside bolts are accessable with a torque wrench (socket). What are people doing for the other bolts?

Also, my header (used) had some hi-temp red silicone on the flange. Is this necessary or just to hold the gasket on until you get the bolts started?

 

[snowy1]

I found it much easier to put the header on with the head removed, then you can tighten all the bolts real good, I installed stainless studs in and used 12 point stainless nuts, and tightened them as tight as I could with out stripping anything, been on with no problems over a year now, when I took the motor apart to replace rings this summer I left the header on, I just used the stock gasket dry seems to work good if everything is tight, another thing I did is had the flange machined most of them seem to be warped alittle, that helped as well.

 

[Rx1M5]

I just finished that part of the install too and you're right what a PITA. I can see why guys don't want to be swithching headers all that often. I got the torque wrench on 3 of the eight bolts. The others I just guesstimated by feel. Hopefully it's all good. I gusseted the crap out of header and ceramic coated it in hopes that it will last at least this season. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[gucciboy]

I was hoping to keep the head on. Rather not have to tear it down just to put the header on. Thanks for the info.

 

[Travis Moore]

I'd just snug it up if it were me, and maybe check the tightness after a few heat cycles. Always worked for me on exhaust parts.