Headlight Project advice

[wot-75]

Ok gang,

I need some advice here, even "hey that's a really bad idea because of this or that" is welcome here.

I'm going to install a Skinz Headlight delete kit and replace my headlights with 2 Rigid LED light bars.

The main light will be a 10" dual row flood/hyperspot combo and the secondary will be a 6" single row amber.

The intent is to use the 10 as the primary and then to be able to switch it off when meeting oncoming traffic on the trail. The 6 would then either be switched on or remain on when oncoming traffic is approaching.

The 10 will be mounted up high near where the headlights would normally be while the 6 will most likely get mounted to the Skinz front bumper.

My main question is wiring. I have a 480cca lithium battery if that matters but my big question is whether I should wire these directly to the battery, to the accessory power, or to the existing headlight wires.

I'm skeptical as to whether the battery will be able to keep up with the draw as the stator (to my knowledge) doesnt charge it much when running however the accessory plug has full juice so long as the machine is running. If that's the case maybe I should hook the 6 up to the battery and the 10 to the accessory plug and see how that works.

I'm open to advice here.

10" combo:
http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/17831
Specifications:

• Watts: 78
• Amp Draw: 5.65
• LED's: 24
• Raw Lumens: 6888
• Lux @ 10m: 2040
• Beam Distance: 903 m
• Peak Beam Intensity: 204000 cd

6" Amber:
http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/90612
Specifications:

• Watts: 23.5
• Amp Draw: 1.7
• LED's: 6
• Raw Lumens: 2250
• Lux @ 10m: 97
• Beam Distance: 197 m
• Peak Beam Intensity: 9700 cd

Yes, I like to be different!

 

[tator]

whats the amp draw on the stock bulbs? no matter where you hook to get power you need to be able to charge more than the total load of everything on the sled (lights, gauges, fuel pump, ext.) otherwise you will be draining down the battery. i have been changing my tractors to LEDs for 2 reasons. brighter and less amp draw.

 

[yamahaguy]

Ok gang,

I need some advice here, even "hey that's a really bad idea because of this or that" is welcome here.

I'm going to install a Skinz Headlight delete kit and replace my headlights with 2 Rigid LED light bars.

The main light will be a 10" dual row flood/hyperspot combo and the secondary will be a 6" single row amber.

The intent is to use the 10 as the primary and then to be able to switch it off when meeting oncoming traffic on the trail. The 6 would then either be switched on or remain on when oncoming traffic is approaching.

The 10 will be mounted up high near where the headlights would normally be while the 6 will most likely get mounted to the Skinz front bumper.

My main question is wiring. I have a 480cca lithium battery if that matters but my big question is whether I should wire these directly to the battery, to the accessory power, or to the existing headlight wires.

I'm skeptical as to whether the battery will be able to keep up with the draw as the stator (to my knowledge) doesnt charge it much when running however the accessory plug has full juice so long as the machine is running. If that's the case maybe I should hook the 6 up to the battery and the 10 to the accessory plug and see how that works.

I'm open to advice here.

10" combo:
http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/17831
Specifications:

• Watts: 78
• Amp Draw: 5.65
• LED's: 24
• Raw Lumens: 6888
• Lux @ 10m: 2040
• Beam Distance: 903 m
• Peak Beam Intensity: 204000 cd

6" Amber:
http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/90612
Specifications:

• Watts: 23.5
• Amp Draw: 1.7
• LED's: 6
• Raw Lumens: 2250
• Lux @ 10m: 97
• Beam Distance: 197 m
• Peak Beam Intensity: 9700 cd

Yes, I like to be different!

 

[wot-75]

? Yamahaguys.. did you mean to post some advice?

 

[yamahaguy]

I would wire them directly to the headlight wiring so your high/low beam switch can be used. The OEM headlight draws 9.3 amps on low beam and 10.6 amps on high beam so you dont have to worry about you LED lights because they draw a lot less current. So don't worry about the battery charging, if anything your helping because your removing load from the electrical system.

We just removed the OEM bulbs and installed LED bulbs to the SE , They seam a lot brighter. I am sure your LED light bar would be even brighter yet.

 

[yamahaguy]

? Yamahaguys.. did you mean to post some advice?

It replied blank the first time? not sure why?

 

[wot-75]

I would wire them directly to the headlight wiring so your high/low beam switch can be used. The OEM headlight draws 9.3 amps on low beam and 10.6 amps on high beam so you dont have to worry about you LED lights because they draw a lot less current. So don't worry about the battery charging, if anything your helping it charge because your removing load from the charging system.

We just removed the OEM bulbs and installed LED bulbs to the SE , They seam a lot brighter. I am sure your LED light bar would be even brighter yet.

That's the feedback I was looking for. I am relocating all the controls from the bars to the console shroud near the fuel cap... I wonder if being able to have both lights on would provide any advantage in snow dust conditions (amber is better for that) and I'm sure I'm going to get some feedback from the main 10" light in those conditions but maybe the amber will cancel out some of that.. I'll probably have to use a tinted lens in my goggle with this setup!

I'll post some pics and (eventually) some video once done.

 

[yamahaguy]

Look forward to seeing some pictures. The best way to handle the snow dust problem is to just pass your buddy haha

 

[tapex_07]

We just removed the OEM bulbs and installed LED bulbs to the SE , They seam a lot brighter. I am sure your LED light bar would be even brighter yet.

What LED lights did you use? From where?

 

[wot-75]

What LED lights did you use? From where?

The two lights I've chosen are in the links in the first post. I got them direct from Rigid