nitrocircus
Newbie
Just wondering what wires to hook a heated shield up to on a 03 RX1?? Thanks
megasunomi
Extreme
NONE.......HOOK IT IN DIRECTLY TO YOUR BATTERY AND PUT A 15 AMP FUSE INLINE...SAVE YOURSELF ANY HASSLES WITH HAND WARMER ISSUES LIKE MANY OF US HAVE HAD .
leaddog
Expert
Exactly what he said! 
Rx1 cowboy
Expert
when you say direct to the battery do you mean the battery or the regulated power down by the cdi box in the nose. i bought the skidoo kit nad dont have experience in heated sheilds as i had always ran modular helmets previously
megasunomi
Extreme
SHIELD
THE REGULAR HEATED SHIELD ON MOST HELMETS RUNS ON A CONSTANT 12V SOURCE. BY HOOKING IT DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY YOU ARE ASURED TO HAVE JUST THAT. IF YOU START TAPPING INTO DIFFERANT WIRES IN THE STEERING COLUMN OR CDI OR WHAT EVER ELSE HAS A 12V SOURCE YOU ARE CREATING A STRAIN ON THE OUTPUT CIRCUIT OF THE CDI BOX TO WHAT EVER CIRCUIT YOU ARE TAPPING...SUCH AS YOUR HAND WARMER 12V INPUT,OR HEAD LIGHT HI/LO SWITCH. ONCE YOU TAP INTO THIS IT WILL MOST LIKELY SHORT OUT THE CDI OUTPUT TO THAT PARTICULAR ITEM AND MOST LIKELY DRW TOO MUCH CURRENT FROM THE CDI AND CIRCUIT AND BLOW FUSES.
I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT MANY PEOPLE ARE TAPPING INTO THE POSITIVE 12V WIRE FOR THE HAND WARMERS AND SOON AFTER HAVING PROBLEMS WITH HAND WARMERS AND WARNING LIGHTS. MY SLED HAD THIS PROBLEM BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL OWNER DID EXACTLY WHAT I JUST SAID NOT TOO DO. I NOW HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY HAND WARMERS AND WARNING LIGHTS ON AND CAN'T FOR THE LIFE OF ME FIGURE OUT WHAT IS BAD.....I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING POSSIBLE ASIDE FROM TAKING IT TO THE DEALER TO LOOK AT IT. I HAVE SINCE REMOVED THE HEATED SHIELD WIRE THAT WAS TAPPED INTO THE HAND WARMERS AND RAN IT DIRECT AS IT SHOULD BE. THIS WAY YOU ARE NOT GOING TO SHORT OUT A CIRCUIT DUE TO OVER DRWING IT AND DAMAGING A CDI.
THE REGULAR HEATED SHIELD ON MOST HELMETS RUNS ON A CONSTANT 12V SOURCE. BY HOOKING IT DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY YOU ARE ASURED TO HAVE JUST THAT. IF YOU START TAPPING INTO DIFFERANT WIRES IN THE STEERING COLUMN OR CDI OR WHAT EVER ELSE HAS A 12V SOURCE YOU ARE CREATING A STRAIN ON THE OUTPUT CIRCUIT OF THE CDI BOX TO WHAT EVER CIRCUIT YOU ARE TAPPING...SUCH AS YOUR HAND WARMER 12V INPUT,OR HEAD LIGHT HI/LO SWITCH. ONCE YOU TAP INTO THIS IT WILL MOST LIKELY SHORT OUT THE CDI OUTPUT TO THAT PARTICULAR ITEM AND MOST LIKELY DRW TOO MUCH CURRENT FROM THE CDI AND CIRCUIT AND BLOW FUSES.
I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT MANY PEOPLE ARE TAPPING INTO THE POSITIVE 12V WIRE FOR THE HAND WARMERS AND SOON AFTER HAVING PROBLEMS WITH HAND WARMERS AND WARNING LIGHTS. MY SLED HAD THIS PROBLEM BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL OWNER DID EXACTLY WHAT I JUST SAID NOT TOO DO. I NOW HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY HAND WARMERS AND WARNING LIGHTS ON AND CAN'T FOR THE LIFE OF ME FIGURE OUT WHAT IS BAD.....I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING POSSIBLE ASIDE FROM TAKING IT TO THE DEALER TO LOOK AT IT. I HAVE SINCE REMOVED THE HEATED SHIELD WIRE THAT WAS TAPPED INTO THE HAND WARMERS AND RAN IT DIRECT AS IT SHOULD BE. THIS WAY YOU ARE NOT GOING TO SHORT OUT A CIRCUIT DUE TO OVER DRWING IT AND DAMAGING A CDI.
madforR1s
Veteran
I hooked mine into the tail light lead under the right side cover. I fused the line with a 3 amp fuse ( the visor manufacturer claims 1.3 amp draw max). I didn't like the idea of hooking the heater outlet directly to the battery and having it 'live' all the time, and this way if I blow a fuse on the trail, I only lose my tail-light. time will tell if this was a good idea or not. 
MadforR1s... am with you all the way.
How much stories of melted visors when left on the sled and the guy in the camp...
The rear tail light circuit is a 10amp circuit where plenty of power is available for this application. In addition to that, 3 amp protection as MadforR1 is required because this circuit goes out to an outside connector. (the heatshield)
With 10 amps circuit, there is plenty of time for the soldered joint to melt (with such small wire/connector) before the fuse.
Also, only appropriate terminal blocks/connectors and design require tapping directly to the battery.
As for the voltage, don't worry, there will be 13 volts and not more, since the whole system is regulated(and filtered for instance) by the battery. With batteryless system, then still, the only rule is to keep downstream of the rectifier and regulator (usually in one single module). There are more than 13 volt peak there but also it goes real low so the RMS (DC equivalent) is still around 12/13 volts. Before the rectifier/regulator then you basically get the magneto output which is pure AC where volts goes from 6 to 18 volts (RMS equivalent) depending of RPM; this spot was perfect for older inefficient heatshield where faster you'd get, more power got to the heating element. Since its an heating element it does not care of AC or DC. The problem with tapping to the magneto is that if things are not done carefully then... a magneto job is a big one.
When circuits are controlled by solid state means, like the hand grips are in the RX1 (time duration by the CDI) it is most likely that modifications to it like adding charge will end up to problems.... not recommended.
There is a good switched 15 amps circuit that goes to the ignition switch as well if the tail/stop light cable is too far for you.
How much stories of melted visors when left on the sled and the guy in the camp...
The rear tail light circuit is a 10amp circuit where plenty of power is available for this application. In addition to that, 3 amp protection as MadforR1 is required because this circuit goes out to an outside connector. (the heatshield)
With 10 amps circuit, there is plenty of time for the soldered joint to melt (with such small wire/connector) before the fuse.
Also, only appropriate terminal blocks/connectors and design require tapping directly to the battery.
As for the voltage, don't worry, there will be 13 volts and not more, since the whole system is regulated(and filtered for instance) by the battery. With batteryless system, then still, the only rule is to keep downstream of the rectifier and regulator (usually in one single module). There are more than 13 volt peak there but also it goes real low so the RMS (DC equivalent) is still around 12/13 volts. Before the rectifier/regulator then you basically get the magneto output which is pure AC where volts goes from 6 to 18 volts (RMS equivalent) depending of RPM; this spot was perfect for older inefficient heatshield where faster you'd get, more power got to the heating element. Since its an heating element it does not care of AC or DC. The problem with tapping to the magneto is that if things are not done carefully then... a magneto job is a big one.
When circuits are controlled by solid state means, like the hand grips are in the RX1 (time duration by the CDI) it is most likely that modifications to it like adding charge will end up to problems.... not recommended.
There is a good switched 15 amps circuit that goes to the ignition switch as well if the tail/stop light cable is too far for you.
