I used an adapter this past weekend and my shield frosted up unlike any other time on previous sleds. Temps were very cold, could it be than my shield does not get full voltage at all times, like the hand warmers that come and go with RPMs. Will it's performance improve if coming directly off the battery leads, fused of course?
Thanks
Thanks
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2004
- Messages
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- 64
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- Clinton, Wi.
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- Snowmobile
- '11 Apex XTX, '09 Venture GT, '06 Attak, 08 Nytro Hybrid
That's the way mine is setup Joe. Dealer in tomahwk did it for me. Haven't had a chance to use it though 
4phsyco
Newbie
You should be OK with the power outlet. Make sure you are getting current all the way through your wire to your shield. If the connecting cord is older it can break internaly. You also may have blown a fuse for the power outlet. Some have had to install a one size larger fuse.
Shivesy
Expert
If you hook it to the battery with a fuse like you said then that's going to be direct power. Battery directly to the shield is as good as it gets IMO.
Thewhitedogg
Extreme
I have the yammi connector that plugs into the accessory outlet. It has a green light to indicate if it is plugged in properly. I replaced the stock 3 amp fuse with a 10 amp because the stock fuse would blow. I have a new HJC and have never had a fogging/freezing issue reguardless of temp or sled rpm. Check to make sure you have power all the way to the helmet. On my old helmet, the face sheild just stopped working.
hypertxer
Expert
i blew mine but are they the small fuses or the large car fuses
Thewhitedogg
Extreme
I bought new ones at Walmart. there were 2 sizes to choose from and luckily I took my blown one with me. It was the smaller of the two. I think they were called "mini"
Thanks for the thoughs, My adapter has an indicator light and my helmet is a scorpion with the indicator at the helmet. The shield is all most new.
Mikecam
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I take a continuity tester to my shield if I think it isn't working. To the cord too. If it doesn't pass, time for a new one.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Typically, the adapter pulls out of the socket and you do not realize that the connection is really only intermittent. I was watching the red LED on mine blinking at me last week. Actually, there are two different sized adapter plugs and sockets out there. Ask any RV guy. If you get the wrong combination, the connection is so loose, the shield is only intermittently powered.
Also, the RCA plugs are famous for not making good connections in high vibration/movement environments. If you really want to check the circuit, connect the cable to the shield and measure the continuity at the far end of the cable for zero ohms while wiggling the RCA connector at the shield. To fix a loose RCA connector, you may want to consider adding a thin coating of solder on the tip of the center conductor.
I have to say here a very thin coating of soldier on the plug, because if you guys are willing to put 10 amp fuses in that circuit, someone has to be bringing up the fact that there are limits. A 10 amp fuse basically eliminates the circuit's protection. There are different sized wires in that harness. They put small fuses on small wires. Small wires fry quickly. Also, as they begin to heat, the voltage changes and current goes up. A little melted snow in the socket, and now you got a real load on that poor little under-protected wire. Of course, the odds against that are with us. Right?
I would go directly to the battery or at the very least the Battery Jumper Cables, and put in a fuse (on the B+ only) as close to the source as possible. A 5 amp fuse typically works, unless you are having some problem, for which you need the fuse.
Also, the RCA plugs are famous for not making good connections in high vibration/movement environments. If you really want to check the circuit, connect the cable to the shield and measure the continuity at the far end of the cable for zero ohms while wiggling the RCA connector at the shield. To fix a loose RCA connector, you may want to consider adding a thin coating of solder on the tip of the center conductor.
I have to say here a very thin coating of soldier on the plug, because if you guys are willing to put 10 amp fuses in that circuit, someone has to be bringing up the fact that there are limits. A 10 amp fuse basically eliminates the circuit's protection. There are different sized wires in that harness. They put small fuses on small wires. Small wires fry quickly. Also, as they begin to heat, the voltage changes and current goes up. A little melted snow in the socket, and now you got a real load on that poor little under-protected wire. Of course, the odds against that are with us. Right?
I would go directly to the battery or at the very least the Battery Jumper Cables, and put in a fuse (on the B+ only) as close to the source as possible. A 5 amp fuse typically works, unless you are having some problem, for which you need the fuse.
Mikecam
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I used my GPS plugged into the acc. jack and I would try to leave the light on to keep the unit warm , 2 or 3 miles and she would lose connection for a second and the light turns off. Very annoying so I went to the battery.
