MarkRTX
Expert
Blew original belt last weekend and replaced with newest version on the yamaha belt. Now my revs are to high. Even on short runs it starts at 10500 and quickly climbs past 11000. I recently changed to the white spring wrapped at 60. Should I put the silver back in at 90 that came with the cluch kit from Woodys performance? In my testing the white outperfomed the silver but now by buddy has same exact setup with sliver spring, Its overreving and doesn't perform as well. Any ideas or should i let the belt breakin more Has over 500 miles on it and cleaned the clutchs and broke in the belt easy after blowing the original belt. I'm new to cluching so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Mark
Your rpm,s going higher are 100% due to going to the white secondary spring. You should not do any wide open throttle long runs on a new belt for at least 20-30 miles. Try the stock pink secondary spring in both sleds at 60 wrap.
MarkRTX
Expert
I only rode the sled easy for the first 80 or so miles with the new belt. I also cleaned the belt to get the residue off. I knew the white spring raised my rpms when I first changed it but I guess with the new belt it raises it even more. I guess I'll have to back to testing. Now isn't the pink set at 70 for the factory setting?? Should I start at 60 and then 70? And what about the silver? I've read that is the same spring used in the Ulmers kit but I may be wrong 
My primary is stock except the OD so I may be geting the Ulmer kit sometime. My mods are 23 top, 3 Degree timing key OD primary, and silver spring I've heard some say the OD and timing key actually make it slower than stock but don't know for sure Any ideas or help? Thanks Mark
My primary is stock except the OD so I may be geting the Ulmer kit sometime. My mods are 23 top, 3 Degree timing key OD primary, and silver spring I've heard some say the OD and timing key actually make it slower than stock but don't know for sure Any ideas or help? Thanks MarkAPEX GT MAINE
Veteran
woodys did your clutchs if you run the silver set it at 90.if you run pink set it at 80.white at 60. but if you put pink or white you need to put 8mm or 5/16 lockwashers under helix or it will coil bind because your clutch have been cut for overdrive. and make sure your clutch are clean take the belt and soak it and hot water and soap and let dry fora day. try that and good luck. 
APEX GT MAINE
Veteran
pink should be at 70 not 80
MarkRTX
Expert
Thanks for the info. Before I blew the belt it went great with the white spring 10700 to 10800 but now it hits 11100 to 11200 which is way to high. Do you have Woodys kit? I talked with Keith and told him I did some testing and before the belt blew the white out performed the silver spring. Woody suggested I may want to try a 47/41 helix with my setup. What will placing the 5/16 washer do with these springs will the rpms come down? Thanks for all and any help this site rocks with all the helpful information. Also what color springs does the Ulmer kit come with and are they Yamaha springs? Thabks Mark OH ya I did wash the new belt and cleaned my clutchs before installing the new belt I do it to all my belts. Thanks again
APEX GT MAINE
Veteran
MarkRTX
Expert
So will adding the washers with both the white and pink change the overall rpms?? I pretty new to cluthing so I have only messed with the seondary springs
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Ulmer's stage II uses Stock Pink Seconday set at 70 degrees on the shorty RX.
MarkRTX
Expert
UPDATE changed spring back to silver set at 90 which came with the clutch/power-up kit. With new belt it still revs past 11000 rpms and I can feel the sled suddenly stop pulling probably hitting the rev limiter. So what may be the problem? I now have around 600 or so miles on the new Yamaha belt and at idle it squeels alittle so I need to take the washers out to adjust belt deflection will this cause it to rev higher? Also when I put the silver in I noticed I had to take apart the secondary sheaves and move the posts or the helix would not align up with the posts where I marked them with marker??? Also yesterday I saw 108gps on plowed road but like I said before it was like I hit a wall when it reved past 11000. My previous best was 115gps with white spring and original Yamaha belt Any ideas?? I may try the pink next at 70. Thanks Mark
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
At 11,000 RPM you are most likely hitting the rev Limit.
Lets back up to the basics to make sure we got these covered. Are you twisting the helix counter-clockwise to put it on? It should be twisted clockwise. Are you sure you are IDing the correct Secondary Spring hole numbering in the sheave? There are numbers on the sheave up inside the reinforcements fairly close to the spring’s holes. But they are not right at the holes. Unless the clutch is clean, you'll never see them.
The statement you made about having to reposition the secondary throws me a bit. Before you disassemble the Secondary, you match mark the two sheaves and helix. Then when you reassemble them you line up the marks on the sheaves. The mark on the helix will move around. But, the two sheaves should always be lined up, once the helix is on. If they do not line up, you lost your balance, which May cause some vibration. To see if you are out of whack here, are the balance holes that the Factory drilled lined up across from each other? They should be.
If you have a little belt squeal at idle, you know the belt is NOT too loose and slipping. However, at this point, you should adjust the belt height as it is still squealing with 600 miles on the belt. Take out one of the thin washers. (There are two thicknesses of washers. I'll assume you have one thick and one thin, because that is what I have to have in there to get the squeal.) If you have only one washer in there, take it out. If it is a thick one, you may want to consider eventually getting a set of thin ones to put in there.
As you increase the Secondary Spring's tension/degrees twist, you are going to get more RPMs. Decrease = less RPMs. Try setting the Secondary Spring that came with your kit down 10 degrees to see if you can see the RPM reduction of about 200 RPMs. Then, if you are still hitting 11,000, then you should be looking at the Primary's weights.
Actually, you want the Rs adjusted to run at 10,200 - 10,500 at hookup and then creep up a few hundred Rs at top end, say 10,700. If you have adjustable weights, I would say you need to add some weight close to the Pin to lower your Rs at hookup. If you do that, it will also have some effect to lower the Top end RPMs.
Lets back up to the basics to make sure we got these covered. Are you twisting the helix counter-clockwise to put it on? It should be twisted clockwise. Are you sure you are IDing the correct Secondary Spring hole numbering in the sheave? There are numbers on the sheave up inside the reinforcements fairly close to the spring’s holes. But they are not right at the holes. Unless the clutch is clean, you'll never see them.
The statement you made about having to reposition the secondary throws me a bit. Before you disassemble the Secondary, you match mark the two sheaves and helix. Then when you reassemble them you line up the marks on the sheaves. The mark on the helix will move around. But, the two sheaves should always be lined up, once the helix is on. If they do not line up, you lost your balance, which May cause some vibration. To see if you are out of whack here, are the balance holes that the Factory drilled lined up across from each other? They should be.
If you have a little belt squeal at idle, you know the belt is NOT too loose and slipping. However, at this point, you should adjust the belt height as it is still squealing with 600 miles on the belt. Take out one of the thin washers. (There are two thicknesses of washers. I'll assume you have one thick and one thin, because that is what I have to have in there to get the squeal.) If you have only one washer in there, take it out. If it is a thick one, you may want to consider eventually getting a set of thin ones to put in there.
As you increase the Secondary Spring's tension/degrees twist, you are going to get more RPMs. Decrease = less RPMs. Try setting the Secondary Spring that came with your kit down 10 degrees to see if you can see the RPM reduction of about 200 RPMs. Then, if you are still hitting 11,000, then you should be looking at the Primary's weights.
Actually, you want the Rs adjusted to run at 10,200 - 10,500 at hookup and then creep up a few hundred Rs at top end, say 10,700. If you have adjustable weights, I would say you need to add some weight close to the Pin to lower your Rs at hookup. If you do that, it will also have some effect to lower the Top end RPMs.
MarkRTX
Expert
What do the factory balance holes look like? Are they the holes on the outside of each sheave I think if I remember one has like 5 to 7 holes and the other has less I may be way off here. As you can tell I'm new the clutching. I thoght that you had to line the helix up to the same post everytime so thats where I probably screwed up. If I put the original spring I had in when I first made the mark on the post and helix I'll be back to new I HOPE. And yes I twisted the helix clockwise Thanks in advance for all your help. Thanks Mark
