Rx-1MtnRider
Newbie
Hey Guys,
I know here we go with another clutching string. I need some help. I have an 03 RX-1 Mountain with very low miles (lets just say less than 300). I am already turning right at to just over 11,000 rpm. This is on flat ground. I ride anywhere from sea level to 4000 ft. Most of our riding is the hills, we have no groomed trails or anything. Any help you guys can give to me would be welcomed. The only thing I have done to her is put in the green holtzman springs. Everything else is bone stock.
Thanks for the input
I know here we go with another clutching string. I need some help. I have an 03 RX-1 Mountain with very low miles (lets just say less than 300). I am already turning right at to just over 11,000 rpm. This is on flat ground. I ride anywhere from sea level to 4000 ft. Most of our riding is the hills, we have no groomed trails or anything. Any help you guys can give to me would be welcomed. The only thing I have done to her is put in the green holtzman springs. Everything else is bone stock.
Thanks for the input
Buckeye
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 1,430
- Location
- Lakes Region, NH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2018 Sidewinder LE XTX 137" 50th Aniversary
Over rev
You can add more weight to the weights or use a lower rate primary spring. Either fix is cheap. Most springs are less than $20 and rivits are less. I'm not sure what rivits are in the Mtn setup, but I would try 4.5 grams in the tip. I know the Mtn. comes with the org-sil-org spring which is very strong you could drop to a grn-sil-grn spring to lower your rpm's. You could do a combo of both weights and spring to get your r's down. Remember, your rpm's will be lower in the snow, than on a flat surface.
You can add more weight to the weights or use a lower rate primary spring. Either fix is cheap. Most springs are less than $20 and rivits are less. I'm not sure what rivits are in the Mtn setup, but I would try 4.5 grams in the tip. I know the Mtn. comes with the org-sil-org spring which is very strong you could drop to a grn-sil-grn spring to lower your rpm's. You could do a combo of both weights and spring to get your r's down. Remember, your rpm's will be lower in the snow, than on a flat surface.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
over rev
yamaha makes a flat lander kit that should work for you. it,s 6 rivets and a 23 tooth top gear and it works well. hope this helps
yamaha makes a flat lander kit that should work for you. it,s 6 rivets and a 23 tooth top gear and it works well. hope this helps
Your dealer clearly did not set the sled up for your altitude.
Yammie specs for 2,000-4,500ft is a 23 tooth top gear, 13.3 steel rivet in outer hole, and 13.3 steel w/hole in the inner hole.
Yammie specs for 2,000-4,500ft is a 23 tooth top gear, 13.3 steel rivet in outer hole, and 13.3 steel w/hole in the inner hole.
Re: Over rev
Is there any advantage to running a lighter spring with lighter weights vs heavier spring with heavier weights? Thanks in advance.
Buckeye said:
Is there any advantage to running a lighter spring with lighter weights vs heavier spring with heavier weights? Thanks in advance.
My RX-1 Works
Veteran
Yamaha gearing and clutching specs
Lets face a few grim facts about Yamaha Mountain snowmobiles,they do not ride them like a normal rider would. A good example of this fact is the float bowl issue. They were not testing these machines in deep snow on big hills. The fact that so many people are trying to make the RX-1 work better tells me that Yamaha did not do their job completely. Because of this fact I think that Yamaha's clutching and gearing specs are not ideal. I would like to talk about gearing for a moment because Yamaha is recommending a 23T gear. First if this sled is to be used as a mountain machine then gearing should be a consideration. The R1 motor is not that powerful, it produces less than 90ft/lbs of torque at maximum power. The Arctic Cat 900 produces 110ft/lbs of torque! I do not understand why anyone would want to make the machine less powerful by gearing it taller. I have changed the gearing to 19/43 , with 7 tooth drivers to give the machine the most mechanical advantage possible. This set up reduces the top speed to 75mph or 120 kph at a 1:1 clutch ratio. This gearing does give me the most hillclimb speed the machine is capable of. Because the sled is not capable of a 75mph hillclimb speed I think that the sled is not geared too low. With a good set up and a turbo I think that 75mph is going to be possible.Meanwhile my sled has the track speed of the 800-900cc machines but not the track or weight of them. The turbo kit is going to have to wait a little longer.
Lets face a few grim facts about Yamaha Mountain snowmobiles,they do not ride them like a normal rider would. A good example of this fact is the float bowl issue. They were not testing these machines in deep snow on big hills. The fact that so many people are trying to make the RX-1 work better tells me that Yamaha did not do their job completely. Because of this fact I think that Yamaha's clutching and gearing specs are not ideal. I would like to talk about gearing for a moment because Yamaha is recommending a 23T gear. First if this sled is to be used as a mountain machine then gearing should be a consideration. The R1 motor is not that powerful, it produces less than 90ft/lbs of torque at maximum power. The Arctic Cat 900 produces 110ft/lbs of torque! I do not understand why anyone would want to make the machine less powerful by gearing it taller. I have changed the gearing to 19/43 , with 7 tooth drivers to give the machine the most mechanical advantage possible. This set up reduces the top speed to 75mph or 120 kph at a 1:1 clutch ratio. This gearing does give me the most hillclimb speed the machine is capable of. Because the sled is not capable of a 75mph hillclimb speed I think that the sled is not geared too low. With a good set up and a turbo I think that 75mph is going to be possible.Meanwhile my sled has the track speed of the 800-900cc machines but not the track or weight of them. The turbo kit is going to have to wait a little longer.
tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
i've ride 3500 km with the 23T and, on most condition is ok, just ok, but when you get 3 and more feet of snow, the sled is'nt working good, hard to lauch and no way you can slow down in a hill and restart without making a giant trench, and $!%/?1 a'm stuck :wink: .
Saturday i put the 21T, and the sled start much better in deep and run with much ease. But i'm like rx1_mtnrider, my sled is reving past 11000rpm. and it's seem to not backshift properly, and the gas mileage is horrible. 75 km with a tank in powder riding, previously i can see a 115 -120km with an tank in just powder riding. Also the acceleration is more like quick and steady, with my 23T, the acceleration was more arm stretching, and i think the sled accelerated faster. i always ride under 3000 feets.
In deep snow, with my 23 T it's seem to have a hole in acceleration at the launch, like whannn whon whannn :wink: you see the hole.
i need descent trail riding capability and excellent powder and hill climbing.
Saturday i put the 21T, and the sled start much better in deep and run with much ease. But i'm like rx1_mtnrider, my sled is reving past 11000rpm. and it's seem to not backshift properly, and the gas mileage is horrible. 75 km with a tank in powder riding, previously i can see a 115 -120km with an tank in just powder riding. Also the acceleration is more like quick and steady, with my 23T, the acceleration was more arm stretching, and i think the sled accelerated faster. i always ride under 3000 feets.
In deep snow, with my 23 T it's seem to have a hole in acceleration at the launch, like whannn whon whannn :wink: you see the hole.
i need descent trail riding capability and excellent powder and hill climbing.
tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
by the fact i know nothing about clutch, i have read your post, and dont understand very well. I would really appreciate if someone can tell me how they work, and why they need weight and spring. It's will help me much to understand, and to know what i must do.
Because, today, i really think that my sled didnt perform great in mountain (mountain we climb here are like the one on pic).
I think she really need more pushing from the start. I feel that there something slipping when i hit the throttle hard, not at the launch, but 1 or 2 sec after.
thanks for help
Because, today, i really think that my sled didnt perform great in mountain (mountain we climb here are like the one on pic).
I think she really need more pushing from the start. I feel that there something slipping when i hit the throttle hard, not at the launch, but 1 or 2 sec after.
thanks for help
My RX-1 Works
Veteran
Tundra , I enjoyed looking at the pictures. The 21 tooth does work better in the deep snow. Your engine is now reving too much ,this isn't from the gear change. I told you about my clutching set up, have you made any changes? I highly recommend the change to my clutch specs, for the clutch to work properly three changes are required.
The weights,primary spring, and clutch rollers.
In a primary clutch when the clutch weight is increased the clutch force is increased.
If a softer spring is used the force on the clutch is increased.
If a smaller clutch roller is used the force on the clutch is increased.
To load the engine harder, or reduce RPM increase primary clutch forces.
Tundra I would like to help you, I do know clutches ,and I could help you fine tune. Just set it ,and then forget it.
The weights,primary spring, and clutch rollers.
In a primary clutch when the clutch weight is increased the clutch force is increased.
If a softer spring is used the force on the clutch is increased.
If a smaller clutch roller is used the force on the clutch is increased.
To load the engine harder, or reduce RPM increase primary clutch forces.
Tundra I would like to help you, I do know clutches ,and I could help you fine tune. Just set it ,and then forget it.
