Hot Primary

steiner

steiner

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Had my primary cut for overdrive last month. Checked the offset with materials I had available. It was bang on 15mm.
Went for a 30 mile easy run to break in the belt. When I got back I checked the clutches. Secondary was warm as it should have been. The moving sheave of the primary was the same temp and the fixed sheave was quite a bit hotter.
Do I need to offset the secondary some more??
 
Believe it or not this is normal ... the fixed sheave on the primary I have found always seems to be and stay warmer than the other sheaves as it is attached directly and close to the engine and not able to dissipate the heat as fast as the others.Mine has always been like this and have never had any issues. Not smoking hot but warmer than the others.
 
With sufficient air moving under the hood, you should be able to get the clutches to feel like warm, if not cool to the touch. I have my two stroke yammi's with pipes working efficiently enough to have the clutches cool to the touch. I'd play with the off set, see what that gets you.
 
snoprokidf6 said:
With sufficient air moving under the hood, you should be able to get the clutches to feel like warm, if not cool to the touch. I have my two stroke yammi's with pipes working efficiently enough to have the clutches cool to the touch. I'd play with the off set, see what that gets you.
Click to expand...
His offset is correct???
 
Yesterday's run was a very tame run. No full throttle runs. Was told to be gentle to break in the belt for 20 miles or so to shape it with the new angle on the sheaves.
After the run I parked the sled, wheeled it into my garage, hung up my gear and then walked over to it and checked the clutches.
Everything was cool/warm except for the fixed sheave. I could only press against for a few seconds. Quite warm.
With the break in completed from yesterday, today I went for a good 10 mile rip. After a good full throttle run I stopped , shut down and checked the clutches. They were warmish. Not at all hot. Easy to keep my hands on. All 4 surfaces were the same.
I guess the fixed sheave gets hot from the engine while sitting for long periods of time.

Now on today's ride I noticed that my rpms are not right. When hitting the throttle it jumps to 10500 and then slowly drops to 10000 and only showing 110 on the dream-o-meter.
Conditions were not ideal but were not all that bad on the packed trail. Wondering where I should be taking some weight out. mid or base. Removing tip weight may make me bounce off the limiter.
I have an Ulmer kit. Not sure of the make of the weights but they are the type that have three spots that I secure washers into.
 
steiner said:
Yesterday's run was a very tame run. No full throttle runs. Was told to be gentle to break in the belt for 20 miles or so to shape it with the new angle on the sheaves.
After the run I parked the sled, wheeled it into my garage, hung up my gear and then walked over to it and checked the clutches.
Everything was cool/warm except for the fixed sheave. I could only press against for a few seconds. Quite warm.
With the break in completed from yesterday, today I went for a good 10 mile rip. After a good full throttle run I stopped , shut down and checked the clutches. They were warmish. Not at all hot. Easy to keep my hands on. All 4 surfaces were the same.
I guess the fixed sheave gets hot from the engine while sitting for long periods of time.

Now on today's ride I noticed that my rpms are not right. When hitting the throttle it jumps to 10500 and then slowly drops to 10000 and only showing 110 on the dream-o-meter.
Conditions were not ideal but were not all that bad on the packed trail. Wondering where I should be taking some weight out. mid or base. Removing tip weight may make me bounce off the limiter.
I have an Ulmer kit. Not sure of the make of the weights but they are the type that have three spots that I secure washers into.
Click to expand...
Just call Ulmer, he can help you dial it in.
 
I would but feel bad about using up his time since I have not purchased the kit from him. I picked up the kit slightly used from another member.
Allen confirmed that the kit one of his and gave me a initial start point via emails during the off season.
Right now the base is loaded, mid is empty and the tip has 2 thin washers. Setup was bang on last season but now with the clutches cut I guess some tweeking is needed.
Now I would like to know where to subtract/add weight to hit 10500 and then climb to 10800. I know enough about clutching to be dangerous to myself. Meaning I could be going backwards instead of forwards with the setup
 
i would write down on paper where u started, and what your changing , from hole to hole and scale the weights to each change and your results also wrote down so u dont go backwards or forget where u started a gram or 2 is the difference!!
 
also when ur done would like to know results to see if clutch is worth shaving , how much more top end u got??!!have thought about it for acoupleyears but havent pulled the trig!
 
I would start by removing one washer (1 gram) from the tip, and see where that takes you. With the cut clutches and stock hp you may end up pulling both washers (2 grams) out of the tips.
 
I will try to help..... You say the the heel is "loaded",loaded with what? steel washers or the tungsten weight that comes with kit? I would check and confirm. Both clutches need to be removed and taken apart with springs removed to check for smooth operation and issues that could cause binding of any kind. Check that all clutch parts are in good condition( spider rollers, bushings in weights and in movable sheave and cover ect.)I have seen many times a lazy primary spring cause this problem also. A lot of times its hard to respond to this type of post because of all the variables that could be causing such a problem.....Just for kicks, how many miles are on the clutches this kit is installed on?
 
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