chrishall
Pro
Having problems with my idle in my 2005 RX1-ER. I suspect it is the old gas in it. Could someone please post the steps on what I should do to clean them?
I have the Air Box off, so you can skip that step.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
I have the Air Box off, so you can skip that step.
Thanks in advance,
Chris
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
If the 05 is the same as the 03,
Unplug the TORS wires on the right side of the carb rack.
Then take the choke cable off by just loosening the bracke screw at the end of the cable, then just slide the tip up and back to get it out of the choke linkage slot.
You loosen the clamps on the boots on the intake side and pull them off.
Then you can unplug the electric carb heater (I believe) which is a white two wire plug under the right hand side of the carb rack.
I also remove the fuel lines, both coming up underneath inbetween the end carbs.
Put a rag under the carb rack if you don't want fuel all over the place.
You can also remove the antifreeze lines but not really necessary as this can may a real mess unless you drain most of the coolant first.
Now you should be able to tilt the carb rack up from the right hand side enough to work on them.
Drain the fuel bowls using the drain plugs on the front of the bowls.
Remove the bowls, 4 phillips screws, you will have to use a long handle screwdriver or even an impact screwdriver if this is the first time they are being taken off if you don't want to strip them. Having a buddy hold the carb rack here helps. This will probably be the most difficult part.
Once these are off, take the pilot, power and main jets out and soak them in carb cleaner. Maybe spray some in the carb bodies too.
Blow the jets dry and make sure there is nothing plugging them up. Don't mix up the power and main jets putting these back.
Also remove the fuel adjustment screws at the just behind the bowls carefully as they have a spring, washer and an O ring on them, and soak that too and wipe down.
Put everything back together, and double check that you plugged everything back in and start it up.
You may want to do one carb at a time so there is less chance of mixing things up. Now did I forget something?
There is also a couple of posts that you can check out if you search carb or idle or sync and words like that, there are quite a few posts on this.
Unplug the TORS wires on the right side of the carb rack.
Then take the choke cable off by just loosening the bracke screw at the end of the cable, then just slide the tip up and back to get it out of the choke linkage slot.
You loosen the clamps on the boots on the intake side and pull them off.
Then you can unplug the electric carb heater (I believe) which is a white two wire plug under the right hand side of the carb rack.
I also remove the fuel lines, both coming up underneath inbetween the end carbs.
Put a rag under the carb rack if you don't want fuel all over the place.
You can also remove the antifreeze lines but not really necessary as this can may a real mess unless you drain most of the coolant first.
Now you should be able to tilt the carb rack up from the right hand side enough to work on them.
Drain the fuel bowls using the drain plugs on the front of the bowls.
Remove the bowls, 4 phillips screws, you will have to use a long handle screwdriver or even an impact screwdriver if this is the first time they are being taken off if you don't want to strip them. Having a buddy hold the carb rack here helps. This will probably be the most difficult part.
Once these are off, take the pilot, power and main jets out and soak them in carb cleaner. Maybe spray some in the carb bodies too.
Blow the jets dry and make sure there is nothing plugging them up. Don't mix up the power and main jets putting these back.
Also remove the fuel adjustment screws at the just behind the bowls carefully as they have a spring, washer and an O ring on them, and soak that too and wipe down.
Put everything back together, and double check that you plugged everything back in and start it up.
You may want to do one carb at a time so there is less chance of mixing things up. Now did I forget something?
There is also a couple of posts that you can check out if you search carb or idle or sync and words like that, there are quite a few posts on this.
DaveyBoy
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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U will need to sync them in supertuner has manometers for sale i believe this is a must when u take carbs apart and change jets 

rhoag
Expert
Be very careful when removing the bowls. There are some rubber O-rings that can tear if you don't remove them square (not on an angle to the carb). I tore one last year and the dealer was unable to find one for me so I went to the local auto parts and bought a bunch of O-rings and got lucky, found one that was close. Some where on here there are directions for installing the ECP kit and it has good directions on how to remove the carbs and disassemble/reassemble them. Good luck. If you were near me I would volinteer to synch your carbs. If you don't have a manometer do a google search for carb tuner II It cost about 80 bucks and works great. There are alot of posts on here someplace about how to synch the carbs too. Just have to remember to plug the fuel pumps back in every now and then.
Good Luck!!!
Good Luck!!!
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Unless you are REAL comfortable working on carbs I wouldn't do it. DaveyBoy is right....get them sync'd. I tried to do it myself and gave up. But I am not comfortable with carbs.
Take to a bike shop that knows the R1 motor and have them clean and sync the carbs. I have had this done on both Rx1's and IMHO, it's worth the $$.
Take to a bike shop that knows the R1 motor and have them clean and sync the carbs. I have had this done on both Rx1's and IMHO, it's worth the $$.
chrishall
Pro
Thank you all very much for your help.
I read up on a product thats called The "Flow Commander". With it, it syncs the carbs through out the whole power range. Not just at idle. What do you think of this product?
Thanks,
Chris
I read up on a product thats called The "Flow Commander". With it, it syncs the carbs through out the whole power range. Not just at idle. What do you think of this product?
Thanks,
Chris
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