how do I hook up?

Well, if your current studs are worn, then yes, new studs would help. However just checking their respective websites, Roetin hornet studs are 70 degree carbide versus Mack studs 60 degrees, thus when new, Max studs are sharper and more effective. You could perhaps just add 48 or 96 studs on top of what you got.

Do the suspension adjustments first and see.

Maybe you could look into stretching out the suspension and going to a longer track to get a better holeshot.
 
i have the same problem with my rtx as the original poster, except i have a few mods (cr10ek's, pc III, ulmer intake and clutch) i have 192 signature series and wiegh 205lbs geared. when i race or radar, we set the floats at 52psi, pull the rear limiter strap all the way up, remove front idler wheels set the torsion springs to light and i spin like crazy, clutch engages around 3300 according to my factory tach and shift rpm is 8850all day. so removing these blocks will b the answer huh? do i set my springs back to medium or what?
 
#2gunsmoke said:
i have the same problem with my rtx as the original poster, except i have a few mods (cr10ek's, pc III, ulmer intake and clutch) i have 192 signature series and wiegh 205lbs geared. when i race or radar, we set the floats at 52psi, pull the rear limiter strap all the way up, remove front idler wheels set the torsion springs to light and i spin like crazy, clutch engages around 3300 according to my factory tach and shift rpm is 8850all day. so removing these blocks will b the answer huh? do i set my springs back to medium or what?

You tighten your front limiter strap all the way tight? Wouldn't that suck the front of your rear suspension off the ground, giving you less down pressure on the track and create lots of ski pressure? Same thing with the idler wheels...they help press the track into the ground and create less drag on the track also.

If you are talking about the rear limiter strap in the back of your suspension, I'm not exactly sure what that strap does. But I thought I heard it gave more ski pressure or helped cornering...would would probably not help straight line traction. Maybe someone else knows...

Maybe I'm not thinking correctly. But I would want as much track on the ground as possible. Try removing the coupler blocks, its super easy and only takes a minute.
 
the rear limitter strap tightened all the way puts more track on the ground, removing the wheels creates less drag, the ski's float a good 6" once she hooks up, but its all spinning the first 250-300ft on ice. my scratch pattern is amazing. i'll give it a whirl. gonna b running in a 500ft drag race with the trail 800s and "stock" 700's come sunday, if i can get a teather and figure out how to hook it up by then. :-o
 


Back
Top