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How exactly do you measure 1/8" toe out?

Your all right but the video made by factory engineer from Arttic cat was best in my humble opinion…He used long straight bars butted to edge of track, straps to hold handle bar straight, then lifted and set sled on ground before taking measurements and showed how to make adjustments….
Please provide link if you can, it would be great to see
 

Please provide link if you can, it would be great to see
I wish I could remember the exact title but no blano…. It was on you tube so type in Arctic Cat factory service and you will find hundreds of videos done by them on just about everything you care to learn about…As I recall it was Brain their race manager who did that video…..
 


Here's a pretty good link. It looks like this guy does this a lot.
He is doing it right but there are 2 improvements you may want to consider and they are , strap the handlebars to rear bumper to keep them dead straight during adjustments, and clamp you long straight edge to the edge of the track so you don’t move it during measurements and or adjustments…. Also lift the sled straight up in front and set back down to vertify your final adjustment is correct…
 
Pull the nose cone plastic off on the sidewinder.
On the bottom near the nut for the bellcrank their is a hole. Put a #3 Phillips screwdriver in that hole up thru the bellcrank. Aligns the handlebars straight.
Some day I'll measure the hole size...

Here is a picture of the alignment hole from the inside of the chassis with bellcrank removed.

Screenshot_20240108-120448_Gallery.jpg
 
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Dang, I just did my 2024, and both nuts under the rubber flaps were loose.
Skis were not toed right either.
Going to Canada on Sunday....hope they didn't forget anything else.
 
Where are you riding in Canada? I don't see anything open?
We are going to the Delta in Jonquiere quebec.
They are expecting 10-16" tomorrow and Wednesday. Then maybe 4-8" on Saturday.
Should be good to ride to the Mountain by Monday.

:sled2:
 
He is doing it right but there are 2 improvements you may want to consider and they are , strap the handlebars to rear bumper to keep them dead straight during adjustments, and clamp you long straight edge to the edge of the track so you don’t move it during measurements and or adjustments…. Also lift the sled straight up in front and set back down to vertify your final adjustment is correct…
IMO, not the best to use the mass produced molded plastic skis to align. They are not exact enough for me. And, as many of us have seen, often the edge(s) of the skis are worn/gouged/scraped/damaged/etc so they are not necessarily straight. I always only use the part of the ski that actually steers the sled, which is the carbide runner. Only it determines where the ski and sled go. I've seen skis where the holes to mount the carbides weren't even in the same place as the other ski.
 
IMO, not the best to use the mass produced molded plastic skis to align. They are not exact enough for me. And, as many of us have seen, often the edge(s) of the skis are worn/gouged/scraped/damaged/etc so they are not necessarily straight. I always only use the part of the ski that actually steers the sled, which is the carbide runner. Only it determines where the ski and sled go. I've seen skis where the holes to mount the carbides weren't even in the same place as the other ski.
I completely agree , using a straight carbide there certainly no problem with your method and like you quoted more exact….. I will add that the 1/8” toe out is max amount you want and any more than that it can and will effect speed and steering…
 
And also the reason why you lift the sled from front bumper and set back on ground is its the true relax position of ski’s . You do this before and after adjustments to get a true reading on your toe out or toe in … You can take your measurements from where ever you think is best…. When you adjust your radius rods its best to adjust both ends in small amounts, it don’t take much to get where you want it …
 


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