how hard to change the front heat exchanger?

[mmmkokanee]

how hard is to change the front heat exchanger? It has a tiny pinhole in it and it only leaks when its shut off and pressure builds up. I was thinking of JB Weld until summer maybe?

 

[kkraus]

Have someone aluminum weld it, way easier.

 

[mmmkokanee]

sure, but i think it still needs to come out, or at least the driveshaft and drain the coolant? not sure if it could be welded otherwise?

 

[RX-1MAN]

I'd try some Bar's leaks before pulling it.

 

[mmmkokanee]

i was thinking that as its literally a pinhole...didn't leak until i got home from 75 miles today...sprung a leak right in front of the garage!

 

[scotstr]

I also vote for having it welded with it on the sled. I had to change mine when a connecting rod broke,smashed thru the engine block and punctured the exchanger. I think it would be hard, but not impossible to change it with the engine in place. There are about 18 rivets to drill or grind, plus a few extras that get in the way when you pull it down and back into the tunnel. The chaincase has to come off to remove the drive axle. The long rear motor mount bolt has to come out because the exchanger has 2 "ears" on the sides at the top that the bolt passes thru. The hoses are a real tight fit, especially the short one on the right. That's only half the battle. It takes alot of prying, tapping and cussing to get it back in and all hooked up. It's not fun.

 

[mmmkokanee]

thats what i thought...i had it stripped right down to install the turbo a few months ago and don't really want to do it again!

 

[sostarn]

I just finished repairing my heat exchanger because of stud that put five holes in it. It is quite the teardown job and many rivets to drill out and reinstall. I had it tig welded and it turns out i could have left it in the sled and the guy could have welded it for me on the sled. Just drop the skid and track out of it and have it welded on the sled.

 

[RTX]

JB Weld it!!
I have 3 seasons and over 6000 miles on a heat exchanger i patched with jb weld. 2 big holes!!
It's quick easy and cheap.
drain the system. clean with a wire wheel. spray with brake cleaner. apply jb weld. refill system & ride sled.
if you can find a small enough wire wheel to fit in the area you can do it with the track and suspension in place.

 

[BURMAD69]

The first time I got a hole in mine i took it out to have it welded. what a PITA the second time I was changing the track so I just welded it in place myself and then put a little JB over it for xtra protection.

 

[scott boddie]

hear exchanger

just jb weld 3 big rips from studs 5000 miles later still no leaks only took ten minutes

 

[Yamadog]

Yeah mine has 5 holes plugged with short screw & JB weld then put several apps of JB over top for good measure. 10,000 plus miules and 2 blown motors later and it's still holding.

 

[mmmkokanee]

i put in stop leak for now and its holding, but it'll be jb welded soon. I'm the foreman of a production welding shop but we don't weld aluminum!
thanks
chris

 

[Rockmeister]

If you want something quick and easy, for small leaks use Alumna-seal, it is very fine aluminum shavings. They wont plug your cooling system like the big chunks in bars leak will!
(The chunks in bars leak are larger than the vanes in your water pump, so they will plug the water pump, and possibly your thermostat.)

Have used Alumna-seal many times in many different vehicles, if Alumna-seal doesn't fix the leak, a more major mechanical procedure is in order like JB Weld, tig welding etc.

Hope this helps!

 

[mmmkokanee]

never heard of alumna-seal? Not sure if we can get it in Canada? I used Wynns, not Bars...no big chuncks.