JohnWI
Pro
I have a general concept for the ski alignment. But with the sleds 200mi north of me I checked the owner's manual for doing this. Unfortunately, all it says is "see dealer."
1: My Q? is whether or not I just need to loosen the locknut on the steering arm near the spindle and twist it to get into alignment and then lock in down again or do I need to disassemble stuff?
FYI I just did the triple points, shims and ski savers yet one sled still hunts. So now I need to go back and do some measuring, but I'm sure that the skis are towed waaaay out.
2: Also with my setup, should I set the toe out to zero? I'd think so as my thought was yami said the acceptable range was 0-15mm out. Or do you think that means to toe-out 7.5mm with a range of + or - the additional 7.5 to equal a 0 or 15mm max?
3: Common sense tells me this needs to be done with the sled on the ground so it's an accurate measurement. Right?
1: My Q? is whether or not I just need to loosen the locknut on the steering arm near the spindle and twist it to get into alignment and then lock in down again or do I need to disassemble stuff?
FYI I just did the triple points, shims and ski savers yet one sled still hunts. So now I need to go back and do some measuring, but I'm sure that the skis are towed waaaay out.
2: Also with my setup, should I set the toe out to zero? I'd think so as my thought was yami said the acceptable range was 0-15mm out. Or do you think that means to toe-out 7.5mm with a range of + or - the additional 7.5 to equal a 0 or 15mm max?
3: Common sense tells me this needs to be done with the sled on the ground so it's an accurate measurement. Right?
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
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There is a locknut on each side of the steering arm. You have to loosen each of these (one is a lefthand thread) and then you twist the steering arm to make your adjustments. After you are happy with the alignment, tighten the locknuts.
JDKRXW
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
JohnWI said:
You lost me with that question/description....
To set the ski alignment, put the sled on a flat level floor and set the handlebars so they are straight ahead. Then lay a long straight edge along one side of the track, and hold it there. It needs to be long enough so that it runs parallel with the skis to the front of the sled. Adjust the ski alignment off this straight edge, one side, then the other. Don't measure off the skis, until you're doing your final toe out check. You want a little toe out (1/4-1/2") or you will get darting on the trail.
JohnWI
Pro
JDKRXW said:JohnWI said:
You lost me with that question/description....
To set the ski alignment, put the sled on a flat level floor and set the handlebars so they are straight ahead. Then lay a long straight edge along one side of the track, and hold it there. It needs to be long enough so that it runs parallel with the skis to the front of the sled. Adjust the ski alignment off this straight edge, one side, then the other. Don't measure off the skis, until you're doing your final toe out check. You want a little toe out (1/4-1/2") or you will get darting on the trail.
If the TO was set to 7.5mm, if it fell to 0, that would fall between the acceptable range...so would 15mm. That would be 7.5mm + or - 7.5 eqalling 0-15mm.
I read elsewhere that some with dual runners (or perhaps different skis) prefer no TO. Since I'm using the triple points, I'd think that perhaps I'd also need no TO. But is the consensus that there needs to be some?
Just seems more logical that the least amount of TO would be the best, but maybe not?
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
the straight edge along the track described above works well, but is missing one step, attach a bungee cord between the ski loops to remove any slack in the steering. set toe out to 0 and remove cord, re-check measurements again. there is often enough play to give the 7-15mm toe out. excessive play could be worn or loose parts.
ecopter
TY 4 Stroke Guru
To answer your question above about loosening just the outer locknut, pulling the cotter pin and turning the outer tie rod end; yes, you can do that. It makes things much simpler for small adjustments. Just make sure you don't have too many threads showing as this means you're near the end of the threads. I believe there's a minimum measurement (like 10mm and no more showing).
Member Sinjin showed me this easy method out on the trail and it works much better/easier than trying to get to the inner tie rod locknuts under the battery tray.
Jon
Member Sinjin showed me this easy method out on the trail and it works much better/easier than trying to get to the inner tie rod locknuts under the battery tray.
Jon
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
If you turn the bars all the way to the left, and compress the boot on the right tie rod, you can get to both the the locknuts on the right rod.
Reverse proceedure to do the left, very very easy
Reverse proceedure to do the left, very very easy
rupprider
Expert
May I add, if you use a long straight-edge against the edge of the track, it may be best to make sure the track is running true to the suspension as the first step. That way the skis will be aligned with the track, and the track will be aligned with the sled. FYI I use an aluminum window sill bottom frame out of a take-out picture window, nice straight extrusion.
Another approach, if you have one, is using a laser against the track instead of a straight edge. Very easy if you have one lying on your tool bench.
JohnWI
Pro
Just got back from 'fiddling.' I was going to try doing the "undo the tie rod" as I couldn't see the inner nut. My dealer said you need to pull the airbox and do it from the inside. This wasn't a problem as I hadn't tightened everything down since installing the battery yet.
At least the clutch side of the sled is pretty easy to reach...I didn't check the other side if it's as accessible or not? I chose to do it the "right" way because it's easy to make the adjustment and re check the toe-out. If you had to take off the nuts, spin the tie rod, reassemble, etc., it would kind of suck. The "right" way also allows precise adjustments and both sides of the steering rod will utilize the same amount of threads.
Here're some tips (if memory still serves):
Pull the airbox
Loosen the outter locknut
Both locknuts turn in the same direction, so if you tighten or loosen the nut on the outter one, the inner one goes in the same direction (from the same stance or position facing the sled).
Loosen the inner one
Twist the steering rod, remeasure, twist the rod, remeasure, twist the rod, remeasure and tighten the locknuts. Remeasure
Anybody else find it absolutely insane the Yami couldn't put little "crosshares" on the front and back of the skis to indicate exactly what is true center? I probably am toed in right now because I used the handles on the front (which probably aren't dead center as the ski might have a little lilt to it). All I know is that I'm a lot better than I was. I still have some "hunting" but I'm not feeling violent darting anymore. I could only get up to 65 on one straitaway (since the lakes aren't verified as safe) and life was pretty good!
At least the clutch side of the sled is pretty easy to reach...I didn't check the other side if it's as accessible or not? I chose to do it the "right" way because it's easy to make the adjustment and re check the toe-out. If you had to take off the nuts, spin the tie rod, reassemble, etc., it would kind of suck. The "right" way also allows precise adjustments and both sides of the steering rod will utilize the same amount of threads.
Here're some tips (if memory still serves):
Pull the airbox
Loosen the outter locknut
Both locknuts turn in the same direction, so if you tighten or loosen the nut on the outter one, the inner one goes in the same direction (from the same stance or position facing the sled).
Loosen the inner one
Twist the steering rod, remeasure, twist the rod, remeasure, twist the rod, remeasure and tighten the locknuts. Remeasure
Anybody else find it absolutely insane the Yami couldn't put little "crosshares" on the front and back of the skis to indicate exactly what is true center? I probably am toed in right now because I used the handles on the front (which probably aren't dead center as the ski might have a little lilt to it). All I know is that I'm a lot better than I was. I still have some "hunting" but I'm not feeling violent darting anymore. I could only get up to 65 on one straitaway (since the lakes aren't verified as safe) and life was pretty good!
JohnWI
Pro
watersuper said:
My question is what good is that considering the skis are not parallel "planks?" i.e. they are contoured
Now if you put a 2x4 on the center of the ski, then put the laser on it and did the same with the other ski and both sides of the track, I guess I could see how it would work.
JohnWI
Pro
I just checked my ski T.O. with and without the bungee on the handles. I had the bungee on it and it was straight (no T.O.); without it, there was 1/2" T.O., does that seem in spec?
I didn't get a chance to ride it after the latest adjustment. Or do you think I should split the difference where I set it to toe in 1/4" on the bungee and then it will toe out 1/4" once it's removed?
I didn't get a chance to ride it after the latest adjustment. Or do you think I should split the difference where I set it to toe in 1/4" on the bungee and then it will toe out 1/4" once it's removed?
It sounds like you are right on the money with that set up.
