how to i identify the studs ?

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Don't take the title wrong, bought a 08 nytro rtx, has the stock ripsaw 1.25" track, I'll probably have to get a pic up here, but the track has 4 or 5 studs that have pulled out, not ripped, but pull through. I'm first going to 're torque all the remaining studs, as I've noticed some of the heads are not sitting flush with the track, which is probably why the 5 came out, I'll torque them. To 15 lbs not knowing the make I guess ?
I wanted to replace the missing ones, is this a bad idea if the track is not ripped ?
Also a few of the carbide tips are broken off, so was gonna replace these as well, but first I need to figure out what is in there, the guy I bought it from didn't have a clue...
it has the round plastic backers.
just got it. So haven't been able to look to closely in the dark to help identify them yet.
 
Don't mess around with broken ones. Get them out, if they are bent, and the nut wont thread off, get a side-grinder and cut them out, and replace with new. Every spring I rotate my track and visually inspect each stud, any that are bent, broken get changed before they start to hurt the track.
MS
 
It sounds like you need a track. You're lucky if those pull through didn't take out your heat exchanger. Don't press your luck any further.
 
Well I've identified the backers, they are fast Trac backers, round ones. Who ever put them in looks like they didnt torque them or maintain them properly. I see a lot of the stud heads are not level with the track, so I think they all need to be tighten with a torque wrench. I'm pretty sure that is why the ones are missing..
 
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Those are just broken off studs from abuse. Fast -Trac studs use nylocks nuts so in order for the wafer head to be missing without tearouts it would halfta break the stud below the nut.
 
Those are just broken off studs from abuse. Fast -Trac studs use nylocks nuts so in order for the wafer head to be missing without tearouts it would halfta break the stud below the nut.
So does that mean these can be safely replaced with new studs and backers ?
Anybody know the torque specs on these ?
 
I've always snugged them till the're just flush with the track face. Seems the manu's torques never seem to be flush with the track for me... I'm not tearing up the wheels that ride over the studs or breaking studs off so it works for me... :)
 


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