loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Here is some information that I use when setting up my ATV's suspension. I spend a lot of time with my suspension on my ATV so I can drive it as fast as I can safely and gives it the best characteristics.
I think a lot of people are confused as to how to properly set up there suspension for them and what each setting does for them. I have yet to set up my suspension on my Nytro as I am learning its characteristics and trying to find out what I like and do not like.
Remember only to make one change at a time. Changing a setting to the rear has effects on the front as well even though you have not touched anything. A common theme I see on here is to adjust the limiter straps for ride height. These sleds are ride height adjustable through the suspension. We assume that adjusting the preload does just that. Actually this is false. The preload should be used for ride height and the rebound and compression should be used to dial in the performance. Preload should not be used to compensate for anything. This is a cheap way to do things and in the past was the only adjustments shocks had. These suspensions are way beyond this.
So... here is some information to help us out.
ADJUSTABLE RIDE HEIGHT AND PRELOAD
Most shock absorbers come standard with a threaded preload adjustment that allows you to fine-tune the initial force applied on the springs. This adjustment is required to set up the ride height (ground or chassis clearance) and to lower or raise the vehicle. You can easily adjust the preload by turning the ring located on top of the springs using the provided tool. Although the preload adjustment procedure is easier to achieve when the vehicle is lifted on a stand, it can also be done on the trail.
WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOU
Customized spring rates and set-ups combined with the preload adjustment provide the optimal spring rate and ride height for your riding style and type of terrain while allowing you to adapt to various situations or to suit your personal preferences. You can make your vehicle higher or lower as you like while still getting the benefits from a progressive suspension and smooth absorption.
BENEFITS FOR THE RIDER
*
Allows you to lower or raise the vehicle
*
Allows you to adjust your ride height for optimal handling
*
Allows you to precisely balance the weight distribution across the front and rear
*
Enables more precise fine-tuning of the spring rate
OFTEN OVERLOOKED, THE PRELOAD IS THE FIRST ADJUSTMENT YOU’LL USE TO SET YOUR VEHICLE AT THE PROPER RIDE HEIGHT AND TO BALANCE THE FRONT AND REAR WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION.
FINE-TUNE THE DAMPING RESISTANCE
On top of the customized valving, the compression adjustment can provide further fine-tuning of the hydraulic damping by controlling an additional restriction of the oil flow. Adjustments of the compression are quick, and easily made by turning a conveniently located knob that has positive detented clicks.
WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOU
The compression adjustment allows riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preference and make it softer or stiffer by simply turning a knob. This can be done quickly and easily on the side of the trail or track to adapt to various riding situations or track conditions. The compression adjustment is highly beneficial for riders who need more versatility from their shock absorbers.
BENEFITS FOR THE RIDER
*
Makes the suspension softer or stiffer on the fly
*
Lets the rider adapt to different conditions or racetrack
*
Does not affect the rebound
*
Helps reduce bottoming-out when needed
PREVENT BOTTOMING-OUT
To benefit from a smooth ride and plush suspension over small obstacles like roots, rocks or choppy terrain, the rider might want to run a softer suspension setting that could render the vehicle more prone to bottoming out. The combination or appropriate customized valving and compression adjustment can help prevent this.
THE COMPRESSION ADJUSTMENT ALLOWS YOU TO MAKE THE SUSPENSION SOFTER OR STIFFER BY THE SIMPLE TWIST OF A KNOB.
KEEP THE SKIS ON THE GROUND
The rebound adjustment controls the speed at which the shock absorbers return to their fully extended position after being compressed from an impact. Although the rebound valving is customized for your riding type, sometimes you might need to further adjust the rebound. Since not all riding conditions or tracks are the same, the rider will want to adapt the rebound damping to match them.
By adjusting the rebound properly, the skis can stay on the ground as much as possible to get maximum traction and reduce the bucking effect of the spring pressure pushing back after an impact. Rebound is controlled by the twist knob on the lower end of most suspension.
WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOU
Riders looking for more versatile suspension will greatly benefit from the rebound adjustment as it allows optimal performance, comfort and traction by helping to keep the wheels on the ground. Racers, on the other hand, really need this adjustment to be able to adapt to different tracks.
BENEFITS FOR THE RIDER
* Provides maximum traction for all track conditions
* Reduces the bouncing effect over undulations
or whoops
* Prevents the rider from being catapulted from the vehicle over whoops and when landing big jumps
* Is a required adjustment for slowing down the rebound after increasing the preload when charging heavy loads
THE REBOUND ADJUSTMENT IS A REQUIRED FEATURE FOR THOSE WHO RIDE ON VARIED KINDS OF TERRAIN OR IN DIVERSE CONDITIONS OR WHO OFTEN CARRY ADDITIONAL PAYLOADS.
Hope this helps some people.
I think a lot of people are confused as to how to properly set up there suspension for them and what each setting does for them. I have yet to set up my suspension on my Nytro as I am learning its characteristics and trying to find out what I like and do not like.
Remember only to make one change at a time. Changing a setting to the rear has effects on the front as well even though you have not touched anything. A common theme I see on here is to adjust the limiter straps for ride height. These sleds are ride height adjustable through the suspension. We assume that adjusting the preload does just that. Actually this is false. The preload should be used for ride height and the rebound and compression should be used to dial in the performance. Preload should not be used to compensate for anything. This is a cheap way to do things and in the past was the only adjustments shocks had. These suspensions are way beyond this.
So... here is some information to help us out.
ADJUSTABLE RIDE HEIGHT AND PRELOAD
Most shock absorbers come standard with a threaded preload adjustment that allows you to fine-tune the initial force applied on the springs. This adjustment is required to set up the ride height (ground or chassis clearance) and to lower or raise the vehicle. You can easily adjust the preload by turning the ring located on top of the springs using the provided tool. Although the preload adjustment procedure is easier to achieve when the vehicle is lifted on a stand, it can also be done on the trail.
WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOU
Customized spring rates and set-ups combined with the preload adjustment provide the optimal spring rate and ride height for your riding style and type of terrain while allowing you to adapt to various situations or to suit your personal preferences. You can make your vehicle higher or lower as you like while still getting the benefits from a progressive suspension and smooth absorption.
BENEFITS FOR THE RIDER
*
Allows you to lower or raise the vehicle
*
Allows you to adjust your ride height for optimal handling
*
Allows you to precisely balance the weight distribution across the front and rear
*
Enables more precise fine-tuning of the spring rate
OFTEN OVERLOOKED, THE PRELOAD IS THE FIRST ADJUSTMENT YOU’LL USE TO SET YOUR VEHICLE AT THE PROPER RIDE HEIGHT AND TO BALANCE THE FRONT AND REAR WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION.
FINE-TUNE THE DAMPING RESISTANCE
On top of the customized valving, the compression adjustment can provide further fine-tuning of the hydraulic damping by controlling an additional restriction of the oil flow. Adjustments of the compression are quick, and easily made by turning a conveniently located knob that has positive detented clicks.
WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOU
The compression adjustment allows riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preference and make it softer or stiffer by simply turning a knob. This can be done quickly and easily on the side of the trail or track to adapt to various riding situations or track conditions. The compression adjustment is highly beneficial for riders who need more versatility from their shock absorbers.
BENEFITS FOR THE RIDER
*
Makes the suspension softer or stiffer on the fly
*
Lets the rider adapt to different conditions or racetrack
*
Does not affect the rebound
*
Helps reduce bottoming-out when needed
PREVENT BOTTOMING-OUT
To benefit from a smooth ride and plush suspension over small obstacles like roots, rocks or choppy terrain, the rider might want to run a softer suspension setting that could render the vehicle more prone to bottoming out. The combination or appropriate customized valving and compression adjustment can help prevent this.
THE COMPRESSION ADJUSTMENT ALLOWS YOU TO MAKE THE SUSPENSION SOFTER OR STIFFER BY THE SIMPLE TWIST OF A KNOB.
KEEP THE SKIS ON THE GROUND
The rebound adjustment controls the speed at which the shock absorbers return to their fully extended position after being compressed from an impact. Although the rebound valving is customized for your riding type, sometimes you might need to further adjust the rebound. Since not all riding conditions or tracks are the same, the rider will want to adapt the rebound damping to match them.
By adjusting the rebound properly, the skis can stay on the ground as much as possible to get maximum traction and reduce the bucking effect of the spring pressure pushing back after an impact. Rebound is controlled by the twist knob on the lower end of most suspension.
WHAT IT MEANS FOR YOU
Riders looking for more versatile suspension will greatly benefit from the rebound adjustment as it allows optimal performance, comfort and traction by helping to keep the wheels on the ground. Racers, on the other hand, really need this adjustment to be able to adapt to different tracks.
BENEFITS FOR THE RIDER
* Provides maximum traction for all track conditions
* Reduces the bouncing effect over undulations
or whoops
* Prevents the rider from being catapulted from the vehicle over whoops and when landing big jumps
* Is a required adjustment for slowing down the rebound after increasing the preload when charging heavy loads
THE REBOUND ADJUSTMENT IS A REQUIRED FEATURE FOR THOSE WHO RIDE ON VARIED KINDS OF TERRAIN OR IN DIVERSE CONDITIONS OR WHO OFTEN CARRY ADDITIONAL PAYLOADS.
Hope this helps some people.
Arnold08
Expert
Great post.... My only problem is i have a hard time hearing the clicks on the suspension Im i aso assume the clicker adjustments at gold Nobs????? and where are the letters S M H.... I havent made ne adjustmenst except the limiter strap for fear of screwing somethign up i would like to make the suspension as stiff as possible...
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
These instructions are for suspensions that have ride height, compression and rebound. I actually got this off of Elka's site (suspension I use on my grizzly) as the same info applies to our sleds. Obviously our knobs only have H and S.
Do not be affraid of screwing anything up. Jot down your settings right now so you know what your baseline is at. One click is a huge adjustment on these things. Try putting your strap back to stock and then start with the preload. Lower the machine using this method, then work with your compression and rebound. Get the machine at a comfortable height for riding and find out if you are bottoming. If you are bottoming then increase compression and so on. I am sure it may be a bit different fox up front but the rears will work on this concept.
Do not be affraid of screwing anything up. Jot down your settings right now so you know what your baseline is at. One click is a huge adjustment on these things. Try putting your strap back to stock and then start with the preload. Lower the machine using this method, then work with your compression and rebound. Get the machine at a comfortable height for riding and find out if you are bottoming. If you are bottoming then increase compression and so on. I am sure it may be a bit different fox up front but the rears will work on this concept.
Daranello
Suspended
whats the correct "sag" for the XTX's rear suspention?
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Correct sag is set by the rider. For instance, on my grizzly baseline was 12" but for cross country racing I ran 3" of sag so a total of 9" of clearance. The suspension needs to be set so that you do bottom out at least once a ride. No more then twice though. If not then you are not getting the proper performance from your suspension.
For me, I am going to drop the front and rear for starters and go from there.
For me, I am going to drop the front and rear for starters and go from there.
Measurements I was given.Daranello said:
"with weight of rider control rod gap should be 16-22mm, to adjust this simply move the 3 position cam adjuter (s,m,h) "
Arnold08
Expert
I Know about that feel thing it just feels weird ill turn the Clicker and it will just break free and seem like it is unscrewing am i turning the rong Nob maybe idk ive never fiddled with this stuff before... Is there a Gold clicker that face towards the top of the sled and then one that faces the back ?????
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Disregard the the gold knob. This is only on the elkas. The gold knob on ours is the black knob on the rear shock. I believe yours is on the top between the two springs.
Arnold08
Expert
Thanks For everyone who responded to this post ill ahve to reference it when i get my sled back from the crash repair haha.
Blue 4's Rule
Expert
Yes, this is a good post loudelectronics! Sometimes it's just nice to have all of the different suspension characteristics and terminology in one spot! 
Longnecker
Newbie
This is not a set up for ditch banging. Just a nice ride with good handling for the XTX.
A few settings to start with......good luck dialing in your ride.
Should work for a 220 pound rider, if the ride is too soft and cushy, turn the dampening adjustments in a click or two. If too hard, turn them out a click.
Ski spring as stock setting
Ski dampening, open 2 or 3 clicks from stock
Ski rebound, open 2 clicks from stock
Pull limiter up one hole
Middle shock, stock spring setting
Rear shock, open 3 to 4 clicks from stock
Set spring on medium
Transfer rods stock
Stock = settings as stated in the manual. If there is a 12 turn adjustment, the stock is 6 turns out from all the way in.
Turning the adjustment in CW will make it ride harder and stiffer.
Thre is sure to be better set ups, but this one seems to be the best so far for me.
Longnecker
A few settings to start with......good luck dialing in your ride.
Should work for a 220 pound rider, if the ride is too soft and cushy, turn the dampening adjustments in a click or two. If too hard, turn them out a click.
Ski spring as stock setting
Ski dampening, open 2 or 3 clicks from stock
Ski rebound, open 2 clicks from stock
Pull limiter up one hole
Middle shock, stock spring setting
Rear shock, open 3 to 4 clicks from stock
Set spring on medium
Transfer rods stock
Stock = settings as stated in the manual. If there is a 12 turn adjustment, the stock is 6 turns out from all the way in.
Turning the adjustment in CW will make it ride harder and stiffer.
Thre is sure to be better set ups, but this one seems to be the best so far for me.
Longnecker
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Just made some changes to my suspension today. Wow what a difference. I do not completly agree with adjusting the limiter straps so I am trying things first.
I lowered the ride height on the front suspension by .5"s on each shock. I then lowered the ride height on the center shock by a .25". I also adjusted the torsion spring to H from M. In the rear I reduced the compression by one click. I weigh 185 pounds. I no longer bottom out in the places I was, and I have no more inside ski lift around corners.
I lowered the ride height on the front suspension by .5"s on each shock. I then lowered the ride height on the center shock by a .25". I also adjusted the torsion spring to H from M. In the rear I reduced the compression by one click. I weigh 185 pounds. I no longer bottom out in the places I was, and I have no more inside ski lift around corners.
loudelectronics
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Forgot to mention less steering effort as well.
fatboy
Newbie
loking for a ball park setting 300lbs on a xtx trail / rough trail ridding
