How to remove remove mono shock from skid?

[Irv]

I just finished removing the rear skid out of my 08 Vector (mono) to do some mtce, (change sliders, bearings, wheels, paint etc) but I am not sure how to disconnect the shock adjuster from the shock or dial?

I noticed it is secured on the skid with a bracket so simply taking the shock off will not allow it to be completely free from the skid.

It looks like it "may" disconnect from the adjuster end but I am not sure if this is the route to go nor am I sure if, once apart it will require a recalibration/mtce on the shock or dial at all?

 

[Crewchief47]

Here: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... ervice.pdf

That was found in TY Tech under chassis/rear suspension which is here: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... Index.html

 

[Irv]

Here: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... ervice.pdf

That was found in TY Tech under chassis/rear suspension which is here: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... Index.html

Thanks Crewchief but unfortunately I can't open PDF files on my computer for some reason

Is there anyway you could copy and paste the info or explain to me how to do it?

Also, in order for me to remove the shock from the skid will I need to compress the spring or will it come out as a whole unit?
(I have no plans to remove the spring from the shock at this point if I don't have to)

 

[Irv]

In this link it is recommended that the shock ride level be cranked to full hard, I take it this is the way to go still?

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm

I also had another look and it looks like the cable disconnects from the front of the shock, it just looks like a regular cable connection, do I just undo that and it will come right out?

Sorry for all the newb questions, this is my first Yamaha sled and the first time I have ever removed a rear Yamaha skid.

 

[Irv]

Got it figured out, disconnected the cable at the shock after cranking the dial to full hard.

Skid is out, sanded and repainted, just have to replace about 9 wheels with replacable bearings as all are either siezed or spin rough

 

[Crewchief47]

Glad you got it sorted out. We grease the bearings in our wheels annually by removing the little rubber seal. I like to use a 'dentist pick' to get the seal out. You'll have some used bearings to practice that little maneuver with. Just be gentle and try not to ruin the seal. I use an infant medicine dosing 'syringe' to get some new grease in all sorts of sled bearings. Most guys use a needle tip for their grease gun.

 

[Irv]

Glad you got it sorted out. We grease the bearings in our wheels annually by removing the little rubber seal. I like to use a 'dentist pick' to get the seal out. You'll have some used bearings to practice that little maneuver with. Just be gentle and try not to ruin the seal. I use an infant medicine dosing 'syringe' to get some new grease in all sorts of sled bearings. Most guys use a needle tip for their grease gun.

Thanks Crewchief, I assume your talking about wheels that have the replaceable bearings?
I have done my other sled's wheels in the past, not too hard of a job but on these Yamaha wheels without replaceable bearings, can you still get at the bearings?

As far as replacing the wheels with replaceable bearings, which way would you go?
Yamaha ones, Kimpex, Polaris or Ski-Doo wheels?

I also want to add the marginal snow kit but have heard to mount them to the outside rails? Plus I would like to add a 4th wheel to the very back as well.
Of all my wheels, the top big idlers are the only ones that I can't feel any resistance or grinding in, the rest are real bad or close to it.
My sled only has 3400 km's on it too.

(P.S. what is the best slider, I am replacing mine while I have the skid out)
Thanks

 

[Crewchief47]

I'm certain you can get at the seal on the small wheels, not sure on the large.

Dad put the replaceable bearing Yamaha small wheels on his Vector. The bearing is wider so we had to machine the inner mounts to bring the wheel back to the center of the drive lugs. You'll find that the Yamaha accessory wheels are the same price as all the others over here. We also stayed with the stock diameter because he's only on his second set of hyfax in 10,000 KM's.....

We've also used the large wheels with replaceable bearings from the accessory catalog for the same reason (price is the same).

Poke around the the forum or Port's online accessory catalog for the part number's.

We don't have any marginal snow wheels in our group save for an 03 RX-1.

Added a fourth wheel to my MTX this season. Used the lathe and modified the stock spacers.

As a general rule, I no longer replace the 'sloppy' bearings in small idler wheels, just re-grease and leave em (with-in reason). They get sloppy after one season no matter what you do and 99.9% of the time they'll just screw off without ending your day. This is especially true of the non-replaceable bearings. drive em till they're gone or delaminated.

I generally stick with the HP Yamaha slides (bunch of spares in the trailer) but I think the MTX currently has some Gamma's on it that have lasted 1.5 seasons.

 

[Irv]

I'm certain you can get at the seal on the small wheels, not sure on the large.

Dad put the replaceable bearing Yamaha small wheels on his Vector. The bearing is wider so we had to machine the inner mounts to bring the wheel back to the center of the drive lugs. You'll find that the Yamaha accessory wheels are the same price as all the others over here. We also stayed with the stock diameter because he's only on his second set of hyfax in 10,000 KM's.....

We've also used the large wheels with replaceable bearings from the accessory catalog for the same reason (price is the same).

Poke around the the forum or Port's online accessory catalog for the part number's.

We don't have any marginal snow wheels in our group save for an 03 RX-1.

Added a fourth wheel to my MTX this season. Used the lathe and modified the stock spacers.

As a general rule, I no longer replace the 'sloppy' bearings in small idler wheels, just re-grease and leave em (with-in reason). They get sloppy after one season no matter what you do and 99.9% of the time they'll just screw off without ending your day. This is especially true of the non-replaceable bearings. drive em till they're gone or delaminated.

I generally stick with the HP Yamaha slides (bunch of spares in the trailer) but I think the MTX currently has some Gamma's on it that have lasted 1.5 seasons.

Thanks for the info Crewchief, I pried the seals off one small wheel last night but I wasn't successful keeping the seals mint, they slightly bent
I will try some others tonight and hopefully I have better luck with those?

I am surprised to hear that some machineing is req'd even with the stock Yamaha wheels, I figured they would be a direct bolt on?

Your dad has had good luck with his runners, only 2 pair in 10,000 klicks is great. Any tips on how he made them last so long?
Thanks again

 

[Riceburner]

The seals will bend back flat again.
You shouls be good as long as you did not tear the rubber around the edges.

Only some Yamaha wheels need machining. The spoked accesory wheels are a direct fit.

Re, Carbides, buy good ones, like Bergstroms, Stud boy etc. The yamaha ones are as durable as licorice strips.

 

[Irv]

The seals will bend back flat again.
You shouls be good as long as you did not tear the rubber around the edges.

Only some Yamaha wheels need machining. The spoked accesory wheels are a direct fit.

Re, Carbides, buy good ones, like Bergstroms, Stud boy etc. The yamaha ones are as durable as licorice strips.

Thanks for the info, if the other wheels are a bugger to get the seals out of then I think I will just replace them with the newer updated wheels with replaceable bearings?
I plan on keeping the sled for many years so it is probably the best thing to do at this point?
Just have to make up my mind whether to go with Yamaha's own wheels or aftermarket ones?

 

[jat59]

I only have the stock wheels on my skid. I just had it out to grease them. you CAN grease every one of the stock wheels. Only ones that I had a little harder time with is the ones which are bolted to the tunnels to hold the track above the skid near the rear. Those I had to grease while still mounted as they did not seem to want to slide off. Just remove the snap ring and the seal and you can get to them.

 

[Irv]

I only have the stock wheels on my skid. I just had it out to grease them. you CAN grease every one of the stock wheels. Only ones that I had a little harder time with is the ones which are bolted to the tunnels to hold the track above the skid near the rear. Those I had to grease while still mounted as they did not seem to want to slide off. Just remove the snap ring and the seal and you can get to them.

I did manage to get a few greased but some were just too far gone and not worth the chance imo so I replaced them all with updated Yamaha wheels with replacable bearings.

I also added a marginal snow kit, a 4th wheel kit, track rub eliminator kit, and hyfax's.