I posted last season about the studded track on my '19 SRX chewing up idlers and thought I had a cure with a rubber tired Kimpex wheel,but by the end of the season at least one of them had been destroyed as well. I can't be the only one with this issue, surely. What are guys using for idlers with studded tracks? The stock wheels didn't last 100 miles and they were junk, and after replacing them 3 or 4 times I gave up on them. I have the studs as tight as I dare take the aluminum nuts. I don't pound the trails with this sled or ride as aggressively as some do either.The studs are SnowStuds, formerly Saber, and are maybe too long for the stock 1" track, 1.325" if I remember right. I am on the verge of replacing the track with one that doesn't have those goofy pads where the idlers run, which I believe may be causing the majority of my problem. Anyone have thoughts?
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
I run 1.450' Woodys and no issues with the wheels except the 2 inner forward wheels. Put Ski doo wheels in that spot 503 191 316 and never a problem since. Over 10,000kms with those wheels All the other wheels are stock with over 13,000kms.
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twyztid
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I have had zero issues with the stock Cat wheels (with rubber) on my 17 LTX SE. I have 192 Woody's Gold Digger studs down the middle in double backers.
Turboflash
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Maybe post a few close-up pics showing your install?
markt111
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When I bought my sled the idler wheels were chewed up pretty bad, the prior owner had the track studded by the dealer and never checked tightness... needless to say many loose studs and chewed wheels at 1000 miles. all were replaced and now I'm at 8000 miles with no further issues!!
ALEXR
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Over 3yrs on my '21 SW LTX LE, all six factory/OEM idlers went. Replaced beginning of last season (Dec 2023) with the BRP 141mm PPD/Kimpex idlers from Royal Distributing. Longevity? Can't say yet from the dismal season we just had. I do like they are slightly larger than factory & along with my JT 8.2's out back, should help with slidder wear. Also put on 144 new Extreme Max 1.52" studs with Stud Boy Super Lite Pro backers up the middle on my factory Ripsaw II 1.25" with quiet pads. Contributing factors I feel....1) proper stud installation.....2) quiet pads....3) track alignment/tension.....4) possibly spun drive shaft. If we have decent snow this season, hopefully can report back. Cheers, Alex.
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max rolph
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soo ive had this issue for years... this year i also put the ski doo wheels in, but i studded mine with no studs going under any idler wheel or even a drive cog.... now you wont get alot of scratch marks...only 8... but OMG what a FN diff in track noise!!! and NO rolling resistance..... you can literally push sled and there is no noise from track whatsoever!!plus ! never lost a wheel or rubber... i used a little dremmel tool and sliced off a bit of the quiet pad to make stud ride flat.
STAIN
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I would like to see a picture of that pattern.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
Me too
Bigblue1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Buy J&T idlers wheels and never worry again. I have 4 years on my RTX LE
STAIN
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I want to see the pattern for the lack of rolling resistance.
max rolph
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sorry just got to get to sled to take pic.s, i tried the JT wheels before i changed my track and pattern and they turned into stop signs... junk in my opinion cant use hard plastic over studs., 400.00 wasted...,, the rubber kimpex or skidoo were awesome.... not fancy but lasted, also the tricked out toy billot aluminum with rubber inserts lasted.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
My 1st set of J&T wheels on my 17 went like that, I returned them and he gave me a set of new design at no cost.
Simplespeed
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Woodys for years and very little issues with wheels once I changed to a small oversize Ski Doo rubber wheel, believe they were rubber on plastic and 1/8 “ larger than stock yamaha Apex wheels.. No issue with sidewinders wheels with 128 studs ….
Trick is to the get the stud heads flush. In my opinion there's no way you can over tighten the tall nuts enough to strip them. Just don't over tighten them to over-compress the track. Even using the plastic backers you should have no trouble getting the stud heads flush even if you start with the tall nuts and change them out after the rubber has compressed when studding through the quiet pads on the track.
