i'm hoping to see 130+mph this yr

kuvasz said:
i've made my own ram air lid, polar attac clutch, 1" track with 189 gold diggers and a 8" billet wheel kit. i lowered the front suspension and pulled the front limiter strap all the way up. i tried chaining the rear but i picked up 4mph by taking the chain off. that was with 24/38 gears.

i take the sled radar running and trail riding all the time.

this yr i've installed a 3/4" track with 243 hand sharpened studs, changed the brake rototr and changed bearings that were seized.

i've got different top gears (20,21,22,23,24) that i'm going to fool around with to see what works the best. i'll post all my results.

Did you happen to read the article in supertrax about finger walking? It was all about friction and balancing rotating mass. Do you think the wind resistance of the 3/4 over 1 in track will overcome the rotating mass weight of those extra studs? When I changed my gears to 22/38 from 23/38 I had to drop a chain size. Pretty sure I went from a 70 pin to a 68 pin chain. The Team Hyvo chains are Borg Warner made. Same as yamaha chains minus the yamaha price. Here's to the 130mph goal :drink:
 
i did read the article on finger walking. i already knew with less resistants and the quicker you can go. that's why i installed a 8" billet wheel kit.

the amount of rubber weight i shaved off the track will be offset by the extra studs. a couple of times last yr when i'd nail the gas it'd spin bad, i'd usually have to roll on the throttle. that's why i installed studs on the outside of the windows hoping to get better traction off the line.

so far i have $1000 invested in extra's. that's not bad for a sled that already runs 128mph and i know we'll see more this yr. what would a yama charger cost ya, $2500 and what kind of speeds could you get from it?
 
good luck :Rockon: :Rockon:
best i've seen on my 121 is 117mph that was with a ice ripper track back to 1.25 with 144 studs no idea of top anymore
 
kuvasz said:
i did read the article on finger walking. i already knew with less resistants and the quicker you can go. that's why i installed a 8" billet wheel kit.

the amount of rubber weight i shaved off the track will be offset by the extra studs. a couple of times last yr when i'd nail the gas it'd spin bad, i'd usually have to roll on the throttle. that's why i installed studs on the outside of the windows hoping to get better traction off the line.

so far i have $1000 invested in extra's. that's not bad for a sled that already runs 128mph and i know we'll see more this yr. what would a yama charger cost ya, $2500 and what kind of speeds could you get from it?


Traction off the line has nothing to do with top speed. You just slowed the sled down by adding studs. Speed runners pull studs from the track and baby it off the line!

I ran only 70 something small headed studs in the belting of my track and 48 hooker studs on plates welded on the clips when I ran 150 HP 1000 foot speed runs. And that was alot of studs for speed. The longer the track surface (like say 2000 feet) you run the less studs you'll need. It takes power to push in and pull out those stud!
 
That was kinda my thinking mike. Lessening wind resistance with a shorter track profile is good but adding studs is not only weight but rotating mass weight. What was the rule of thumb? 1 lb of rotating weight equals 7 lbs of stationary weight?
 
copo427ss said:
That was kinda my thinking mike. Lessening wind resistance with a shorter track profile is good but adding studs is not only weight but rotating mass weight. What was the rule of thumb? 1 lb of rotating weight equals 7 lbs of stationary weight?

True, that's what they say, but I rook 8 lbs of rotating weight off my V-Max once using titanium cleats and titanium studs and it did not pick up even a hundredth of a second, so I throw that misnomer right out the window. It just takes power to push in and pull out studs, also adding studs makes the track less flexible. Part of the power loss can be seen on a track dyno. More studs = more power loss thru flexibility and weight, and this does not show the power it takes to drive them in and pull them out of the ice.
 


Back
Top