hayastusa
Pro
I hope this isn't considered high-jacking, but...you guys make it sound like removing the entire chainchase is no big deal. I've got the cover off and I have a 36mm box end wrench, but when I looked at the schematic with all those washers, spacers, springs, oil seals and bearings, It stopped me in my tracks. Do any of you guys know of a step by step for chain case removal/install (busted mine) on this site ? Did a search and found cover removal/install only...that's the easy part.
stealth800
Extreme
I understand your need to vent but don't expect everyone to agree with you. These new yammies are probobly one of the easiest sleds i've worked on, i've done a track and it was easier than many others i've done in the past on other stuff. The side panels come off so you have direct access to the chain case and drive shaft bearing, all the nuts are already in the tunnel so you need no back-up wrench, and what is wrong with the collar on the shaft, these sleds are built to last, You may think now one is listening to you but in realaity you are venting about a job that can be different the 1st time you do it but on this site there is endless tech. info for doing various jobs on these machines. You can take on of these sleds apart so quick, esp. all the plastics. I do not think anything on these sleds was and " afterthought" Yamaha does a dam good job of deigning their stuff right the 1st time. Are they perfect? No, But some of the things you see on Yamahas that you question are there for a reason and it is not to make your life difficult. Yes you are entitled to your opion but I don't think it is fair to judge how something is designed and put together when it may be your 1st time working on one.
stealth800
Extreme
Hayastusa, I went to the blow up pic. of the chaincase in the parts fishe off of the Port Yamaha site and printed it. It gives a detailed pic of where all those washers go and the order that all the componenets go together. You can also magnify the pic. to see more detail. Hope that helps.
hayastusa
Pro
Thanks stealth. Got the fiche. Sounds like you've been there. Any tips, tricks or surprises you guys could let me in on? Can i expect that compression spring to shoot the collar off and hit me in the head? Any special tools besides the 36mm socket? Any advice would be appreciated. I will need to swap all parts from the old case to the new. Can i salvage seals and bearings...Anyone?
87gtNOS
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2005
- Messages
- 1,892
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Toronto
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 12 Apex XTX MCX powered
hayastusa said:
It's actually pretty straight forward....first time I did mine I simply removed everything one at a time and placed it all on a piece of cardboard in the order it came out.
87gtNOS
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2005
- Messages
- 1,892
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Toronto
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 12 Apex XTX MCX powered
hayastusa said:
Go nice on the seals, you'll be fine. That spring won't shoot off!!!
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2003
- Messages
- 2,353
- Location
- Carlisle, NY .
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
thegrizzly1 said:
I used a big monkey wrench (not a pipe wrench), and tapped it a few times for the correct torque..lol. First one's been together for 4 years now.
I noticed the torque to remove it with the wrench, and after reassembly, tightened it and then loosened it to make sure I was getting it tight.
sobfrogg
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The hardest part with the 36mm nut is holding the other side so the shaft does not turn. Micro Belmont sells the tool. Takes the nut off and another to hold the other side of the jack shaft. Well worth the price.
-The little spring inbetween the reverse gears will not spring out. The spring may fall out
just keep an eye on it.
-If you can get a blow up of the parts it is rathe straight forward.
- The seals are cheep. If your dealer has them in stock use new ones along w/ the snap rings. If your bearings feel good(no rough spots) reuse them. Just be nice in taking them out. A bearing driver is a good tool to use. Or a large deepwell socket that will press on the outer edge of the bearing. I use a shop press on mine.
-If you have reverse, make sure the reverse arms come down from the top to engauge the lower gear. Do not play with the adjustments. If they were good before they should be close when you put it back together. A small adjust may be needed.
- If you have more questions pm me. I jsut had mine apart and back together last week. Oh and it WORKS..
I did drop my little spring. Ordered it and found it before the new one came in. So now I have extras
HAPPY NEW YEAR
HEY ITS SNOWING HERE
-The little spring inbetween the reverse gears will not spring out. The spring may fall out
just keep an eye on it.-If you can get a blow up of the parts it is rathe straight forward.
- The seals are cheep. If your dealer has them in stock use new ones along w/ the snap rings. If your bearings feel good(no rough spots) reuse them. Just be nice in taking them out. A bearing driver is a good tool to use. Or a large deepwell socket that will press on the outer edge of the bearing. I use a shop press on mine.
-If you have reverse, make sure the reverse arms come down from the top to engauge the lower gear. Do not play with the adjustments. If they were good before they should be close when you put it back together. A small adjust may be needed.
- If you have more questions pm me. I jsut had mine apart and back together last week. Oh and it WORKS
.. I did drop my little spring. Ordered it and found it before the new one came in. So now I have extras
HAPPY NEW YEAR
HEY ITS SNOWING HERE
hayastusa
Pro
How does that tiny spring go inbetween the reverse gear and the dog??? Does it have somewhere to seat/ How do I get the dowels out of the old case?
sobfrogg
TY 4 Stroke Guru
hayastusa said:
you have PM
How do you like the intense track?
freezie
Pro
yes, how is that track??
dlange
Extreme
track
I just ran my attak with the intense track 700 miles the last 4 days and I think the track rocked. I raced my buddies new attak with the ripsaw and at about 100 feet out on a railbed,I really pulled past him hard. Granted he has 500 miles and me 1000 so my motor may be more broke in, but the traction is way better I think on loose or hardpack without studs. They both spun on icy stuff. No difference there. I was still seeing 110 on wide open on straits, so I dont think it hurt the topend much at all. One hardpack rode I even seen 126. Nuff said. Hope this helps.-Dave
I just ran my attak with the intense track 700 miles the last 4 days and I think the track rocked. I raced my buddies new attak with the ripsaw and at about 100 feet out on a railbed,I really pulled past him hard. Granted he has 500 miles and me 1000 so my motor may be more broke in, but the traction is way better I think on loose or hardpack without studs. They both spun on icy stuff. No difference there. I was still seeing 110 on wide open on straits, so I dont think it hurt the topend much at all. One hardpack rode I even seen 126. Nuff said. Hope this helps.-Dave
DANX123
Expert
TRACK?
the new track is great. it achieved the desired affect. very much better in deep snow. doesnt trench as much. hooks up great
freezie said:
the new track is great. it achieved the desired affect. very much better in deep snow. doesnt trench as much. hooks up great
freezie
Pro
thanks dan, thats exactly what im looking for, i hate the trenching and the total speed loss when you hit even semi deep snow..thats when you see the other sled walk past.
