banjo04414
Pro
Need some help! I installed 120 Woody Signature 1.325 studs in the center of the track. I used a universal trail template for the pattern. Now the big problem, The backplates of the studs that are in the middle of the track are hitting the top of the shock and it sounds like I have a bucket of bolts rattling around down there. Just sitting there the track does not have alot of clearance between itself and the shock. With a riders weigh it must cause the track to become touching or almost touching the shock. You can tell this is the problem as some of the plates in the middle have a scraping mark on them. I rechecked the torque on all the middle studs and they are as recommended. As it is they are quite recessed. The track has 1 1/4" deflection, within limits. I am afraid to remove the studs from the middle as this will probably weaken the track with nothing in the holes. Has anyone had this problem or know of a solution!!!!!
I can't believe that the shock doesn't give more room between itself and the track. Maybe it is something else I'm missing??? Any help will be appreciated. :?
I can't believe that the shock doesn't give more room between itself and the track. Maybe it is something else I'm missing??? Any help will be appreciated. :?LooseCannon
Expert
Banjo-
You can remove the studs that are in the middle and not have any problems. I talked with Camoplast about this similiar problem, I was ordering a track that was pre-drilled but would not have the studs in time to install before my trip and they said it would be no problem to run without the holes filled. With not having a stud in the hole there is no pull or stain which should cause no problems.

You can remove the studs that are in the middle and not have any problems. I talked with Camoplast about this similiar problem, I was ordering a track that was pre-drilled but would not have the studs in time to install before my trip and they said it would be no problem to run without the holes filled. With not having a stud in the hole there is no pull or stain which should cause no problems.

banjo04414
Pro
Thanks loose cannon. Have you ever heard of this happening? All the sleds I ever owned and studded I never had a problem like this!!!! I wonder if eventually they would wear in without alot of damage to the shock.
banjo04414
Pro
I was trying to show a the pattern I used but can't get it to come out right. 

banjo04414
Pro
OOOPS! Didn't show up right. Disregard the dot's.
LooseCannon
Expert
In some cases while trying to get the highest number of scratch lines you may end up putting the stud down the middle. My track does occasionally rub the shock mount. Not sure how to fix the rubbing but nothing major to this point. With the predrilled track from Camoplast the patteren is down the center (inside the windows) but not in the very middle of the track. 144 pattern using double backers.
banjo04414
Pro
I guess I could remove the middle ones and try and space them elsewhere. Boy, I hope I haven't weakened my track too much exspecially after I remove the studs. I wonder if they would wear in and the noise would stop?
banjo04414
Pro
Anyone else have this problem and any other fixes????
RX-Dave
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I would tighten the track to the snug side. I am running 144 in my 05 RX1 with no issues, even with Woodys studs.
Riceburner
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I was told not to stud the middle of the Ripsaw track.
I think that was on this site.
Something about the Ripsaw not being suitable for studs exactly in the middle.
You might try taking out the middle ones and see what you get.
I think that was on this site.
Something about the Ripsaw not being suitable for studs exactly in the middle.
You might try taking out the middle ones and see what you get.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah like these guys say, take the ones out of the middle. They do the least good anyway because they have the least force to push them down because they are not close to the hyfax or any wheels. Those little holes are not going to hurt your track at all. Guys I rode with run 96 on 05 RX 1s and it works fine.
Hill riders are cutting three 1&1/4 holes in their tracks in each flat with no problems. This is done to save weight, decrease rolling resistance and to let snow in/out.
Hill riders are cutting three 1&1/4 holes in their tracks in each flat with no problems. This is done to save weight, decrease rolling resistance and to let snow in/out.
banjo04414
Pro
Hear you guy's. Removed the studs in the middle. Checked track tightness. Now at 1" 2/8ths. Spring preload at 6. Preload moved one mark towards the min off standard. Took it for a run down the lake. Heavey chatter is gone but still hear a rubbing noise. Had the wife sit on the sled and checked underneath. The track actually touches the top of the shock with weigh on, and she weighs 55 lbs less then me[185 lb]. You can see a light rubbing mark in the middle of the track. Either something's not right or Yamaha didn't engineer this very well. It almost looks like they need bigger wheels on top to move the track up and away from the shock. Anyone with an 05 please check yours with weigh on and LMK if yours is like this also. What's up with this? 
GreenMtnRx1
Extreme
I studded mine had no problems. Then I went to a radar run and I turned my weight transfer all the way up to max and the shock started to rub on the inside of the track just like you said. I turned it back down to were I had it two lines from the min. It seems to be fine now but have not taken it down the trail. So banjo04414 where is your weight transfer setting?
banjo04414
Pro
One line from standard towards min. I think the same as yours. I'm having the dealer look into bigger idlier wheels. It's B$ that it should touch.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
My 05 shock spring touches the track a little too.
It doesn't seem to be a big problem though. After 5300 kms I can clearly see where the track has worn some, but it doesn't "look" like it is going to cause the track to fail prematurely.
I think the track will wear out at the usual places first (lugs, splits along the stiffeners, etc.) and probably at more than 10,000 kms.
The other area I can see some wear on the track is by the RA adjuster. The track is held up by a plastic part of the adjuster. The wear is very minor here.
It doesn't seem to be a big problem though. After 5300 kms I can clearly see where the track has worn some, but it doesn't "look" like it is going to cause the track to fail prematurely.
I think the track will wear out at the usual places first (lugs, splits along the stiffeners, etc.) and probably at more than 10,000 kms.
The other area I can see some wear on the track is by the RA adjuster. The track is held up by a plastic part of the adjuster. The wear is very minor here.
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