Any one have any good tricks for dealing with these springs on steroids?
1Gunner
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two pairs of hands is a must!!!!
RobX-1
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Spray25, I wish I could take credit for this but it was posted a while ago (not sure of the user name 
) and man did it make the job very very easy. Heck, I didn't even have to remove the primary off the shaft when installing the HC arms and spring. What I did was go out buy the same diameter bolt but in longer increments. Not sure of the diameter but if I had to guess, maybe a fine 10mm thread? Just take one of the factory bolts off and run up to your local hardware store. I bought 6 bolts total of the same diameter; 3 @ 2.5" long and 3 @ 2.0" long. I removed three of the 6 factory bolts from the primary and re-installed the three 2.5" long bolts. Tigthen enough so that they won't come out when they are under pressure. Once you have those bolts in, remove the remaining 3 factory bolts. At this point, you can simply loosen each one of the 2.5" bolts in equal increments until there is no pressure on the spring. You will have enough length on those bolts to loosen the primary cap and release spring pressure and still have threads into the primary. The reason I mention to get 2.0" bolts is for the install process. The 2.5" bolts will not tight the primary cap enough to get the factory bolts started. So, what I did was to first use the 2.5" bolts and tighten, in equal increments, until you can get the 2.0" bolts installed. Remove the three 2.5" bolts. Tighten the 2.0" bolts until you are able to get the factory bolts installed. Once you have the primary spring compressed enough, you can remove the 2.0" bolts and install the remaining 3 factory bolts and then tighten to spec. The torque is 43 ft/lb on the primary bolt and 10 ft/lb on the primary cap screws. I too installed the white HC spring and man all I can say is thank you to the person that posted those instructions. It made the job a breeze. 8)
) and man did it make the job very very easy. Heck, I didn't even have to remove the primary off the shaft when installing the HC arms and spring. What I did was go out buy the same diameter bolt but in longer increments. Not sure of the diameter but if I had to guess, maybe a fine 10mm thread? Just take one of the factory bolts off and run up to your local hardware store. I bought 6 bolts total of the same diameter; 3 @ 2.5" long and 3 @ 2.0" long. I removed three of the 6 factory bolts from the primary and re-installed the three 2.5" long bolts. Tigthen enough so that they won't come out when they are under pressure. Once you have those bolts in, remove the remaining 3 factory bolts. At this point, you can simply loosen each one of the 2.5" bolts in equal increments until there is no pressure on the spring. You will have enough length on those bolts to loosen the primary cap and release spring pressure and still have threads into the primary. The reason I mention to get 2.0" bolts is for the install process. The 2.5" bolts will not tight the primary cap enough to get the factory bolts started. So, what I did was to first use the 2.5" bolts and tighten, in equal increments, until you can get the 2.0" bolts installed. Remove the three 2.5" bolts. Tighten the 2.0" bolts until you are able to get the factory bolts installed. Once you have the primary spring compressed enough, you can remove the 2.0" bolts and install the remaining 3 factory bolts and then tighten to spec. The torque is 43 ft/lb on the primary bolt and 10 ft/lb on the primary cap screws. I too installed the white HC spring and man all I can say is thank you to the person that posted those instructions. It made the job a breeze. 8)
Thanks for the tip Rob. I just switched to the red spring, if you think the white is a pain you should try the red one.
Another easy way to deal with stiff springs is to make yourself a spring removal tool. Go to the local hardware store and buy a long threaded rod with a large head on one end. Shove the rod in the primary hole from the back side and it will stick out the clutch cover side. You then get some washers big enough to come in contact with the cover and screw a nut onto the threaded rod until its tight. You can now remove all 6 bolts on the primary, then you just loosen up the nut on the threaded rod and the spring comes off with ease. You just reverse the process to re-install. If you need pics of the one I built let me know. I think I have a whole $3.50 into it. Cheap tool that makes the job a hell of alot easier...BBY
Otis RX
Expert
Chuck the HC springs.
Go find a yamaha chart and pick out a couple.
HC springs run too hot and have too high an engagement.
You get better hook up with lighter preload, as this beast (rx-1) makes good torque down stairs.
OTIS
Go find a yamaha chart and pick out a couple.
HC springs run too hot and have too high an engagement.
You get better hook up with lighter preload, as this beast (rx-1) makes good torque down stairs.
OTIS
Otis RX said:
I am told that heavy springs seem to work better in the mountains and with the HC's in a turbo application. I am a little concerned about how high my engagement is going to be with this new, stiffer Red spring. So far I have not been happy with the HC setups I have tried.
Silver
Expert
I have a set up just like BlueBy You and it is cheap and very easy to do and you don't have to ask the wife to help you.
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Hey Spray, there is a new HC spring that is more aimed at the RX-1, it has the same preload as the white HC spring, but a higher end load. I believe it's a 140-400 spring. compared to the red of 230-360 and the gray 230-330 with the white being 170-300.
The Black spring sounds interesting. Might work for my application.
To be honest I'm thinking about $hit canning the HC's and going to heavy hitters just because of the hassle with installing these springs. The ideas listed here are good ones, but the only one that is very feasable in the field in Wildbills. That one unfortunately takes to long and is stilla PITA.
BBY's idea is great, but if I am understanding him correctly it requires removal of the primary. Not something that I want to do in the field.
To be honest I'm thinking about $hit canning the HC's and going to heavy hitters just because of the hassle with installing these springs. The ideas listed here are good ones, but the only one that is very feasable in the field in Wildbills. That one unfortunately takes to long and is stilla PITA.
BBY's idea is great, but if I am understanding him correctly it requires removal of the primary. Not something that I want to do in the field.
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Spray, I make a tool that consists of a bolt & a plastic "hub" that you can use to remove the heel clicker weights easily while out in the field and still leave the clutch on the sled. I simply just remove the clutch bolt & then screw this in and it closes the sheaves allowing me to take the weights out and adjust them. PM if you're interested.
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