Installing rear skid...Question

tapp1

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I had bushing break/nut fall off on the right front rear skid mount. Replaced bushing and sleeve. Now I am having a problem getting the skid to line up with the mounting holes. I had to take the two front bolts out to do the work. Any thoughts?
 
I have had my skid out a couple times and it never seems to line up easily. I usually have to use a punch or screw driver to line up the holes. I usually get the front bolts started a few threads and leave them loose. Makes it easier to jockey the skid around to line up the rear holes. Once i get all the bolts started then i will tighten the front first then the rear. Once shes all tightend i like to start it up and run the track around a few times then check alignment. Hope this helps.
 
Raise the rear of your sled high enough to rotate the rear torsion springs out of the guides to relieve the tension. You then should be able to get the bolts in.
 
Thanks guys. I've had the skid out before, just wast trying to install again without taking it completely apart. Just unhooked the torsion springs and started with the front bolts first. Used a jack/chainfall to position the rear
 
yamariv said:
Are the torsion springs hard to put back in place once everythings bolted up?
Really easy to do, just lift them up and over and set back into place. Just make sure you rotate the guide clip back so it holds the spring.
 
xrrider said:
yamariv said:
Are the torsion springs hard to put back in place once everythings bolted up?
Really easy to do, just lift them up and over and set back into place. Just make sure you rotate the guide clip back so it holds the spring.

Thx!
 
You shouldn't have to undo the torsion springs that's way too much unnecessary work!

With the arse end of the sled jacked up (I use a chain hoist) after you have the front bolts in put a block under the skid about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way back and lower the rear end. It is usually very close to lined up. If you need to compress the suspension just throw a ratchet strap over the torsion springs and crank it down. If it needs to go back shove a pry bar near the transfer blocks and give her a push.
 
Unhooking the torsion spring requiers removing 1 bolt. No work at all. I put the 2 front bolts in and used 1 arm to line up the rear bolt holes. No wood blocks, prybars or ratchet straps required
 
SteelerJim said:
Unhooking the torsion spring requiers removing 1 bolt. No work at all. I put the 2 front bolts in and used 1 arm to line up the rear bolt holes. No wood blocks, prybars or ratchet straps required

You don't have to remove anything to unhook the torsion springs. Rotate the tension adjuster to low, rotate the plastic clip (which is behind the idler wheel) forward, then just lift the spring over the idler wheel and let it hang beside the track.
 
SteelerJim said:
Unhooking the torsion spring requiers removing 1 bolt. No work at all. I put the 2 front bolts in and used 1 arm to line up the rear bolt holes. No wood blocks, prybars or ratchet straps required

You have an extra bolt per side removing and replacing and that isn't extra work? You are twisting 4 bolts that I'm not.

I use to remove the tension from the torsion springs till I discovered this method. It's faster and way less of a pain in the arse.

But hey I was just posting my method as another alternative that requires removing and replacing less parts. If you have a method that you are happy with stick with it.
 
Sound like everyone has there own trick here. For me a bumper hoist on the back and a "atv" jack under the track and it gos in.
 
The secret is to do one side at a time, rather than the two front and then the two back. I remove the two bolts from one side, turn the sled on it's side, remove the other two, and then pull out the skid.

Putting everything back together is the reverse. With the sled on it's side, put the skid in the track, blot in the front bolt, then the rear. Flip the sled over and do the front and rear bolts. Put it flat and tighter all four. Raise the rear to do the track alignment. Easy-peasy.
 


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