Jackshaft and Driveshaft bearing re-grease

[Alatalo]

I have my sled up on the lift without a belt on it. I noticed that I can turn the secondary 3" (measured on outer diameter to fixed point) before it starts to turn the driveshaft. Then if I turn it backward same thing. I don't recall there being this much play between the two. Seems excessive to me. Normal?

That sounds like the normal reverse gear free play.

 

[revster]

I have my sled up on the lift without a belt on it. I noticed that I can turn the secondary 3" (measured on outer diameter to fixed point) before it starts to turn the driveshaft. Then if I turn it backward same thing. I don't recall there being this much play between the two. Seems excessive to me. Normal?

That sounds like the normal reverse gear free play.

Great! Thanks man.

 

[TOMBOB]

a

great write up---this is a must every year

i've done this on all my sleds, now the seals are getting bad.

it been ask before how DO you get replacement ones?

buy new bearing and use the seals?

TOMBOB

 

[sorenson1610]

Re: a

great write up---this is a must every year

i've done this on all my sleds, now the seals are getting bad.

it been ask before how DO you get replacement ones?

buy new bearing and use the seals?

TOMBOB

If your going that far you might as well just put new bearings in. Don't think you can get just seals?

 

[dburrowes]

i just pulled my primary and for te first time looked at that bearing. some signs of what used to be grease in there. took quite some time to free up the bearing before i was getting it to turn. looks like im going to need a new bearing however i took the bolts out of what looks like the bearing capture plate however i cant seem to get this apart from the block. Possibly due to the heat of the dry running bearing, lol.

has anyone ever replaced this bearing and if so how do you get that plate off?

 

[Super Sled]

Re: a

great write up---this is a must every year

i've done this on all my sleds, now the seals are getting bad.

it been ask before how DO you get replacement ones?

buy new bearing and use the seals?

TOMBOB

Me too, Tom. After a few years of popping the seals on and off they get bent up/ warped and don't seal we'll anymore.

Just a week ago I replaced my drive/ speedo bearing. That one is easy. Next summer will be the jackshaft bearing, or else I'll have me dealer do it, as its pressed on....

 

[TOMBOB]

greasing bearings

SUPER SLED is this a good idea

jack shaft bearing removal "let's put this to bed"

I have been studying everything on this subject as of late.
I have a 2006 vector and have done bearing grease procedure for years(jack shaft ands drive shaft
bearings) I have not had any bearing failure on any my sleds when you do this every year.
Vector,Nytro,Apex's thru 2009 used a collar under the jack shaft bearing, poor design but they change this 2010
They removed collar and added a c-clip plus bearing housing re-design and this made this bearing change much easier

So at sometime this bearing will need to be replaced. I have notice under the tech section "ENGINE"
RX/RSAPEX EXHAUST GASKET REPALCEMENT BY MR. SLED if you notice when you remove access plate over exhaust donuts on the left hand side the locking nut for jack shaft is in plain site. To remove the collar under the bearing, heat the bearing and tap the collar and bearing out, when you change the exhaust donuts . Have bearing and collar on hand before changing your donuts.

RXRIDER does a great write up on this same subject in 4-stroke sled garage RXRIDER TURBO GARAGE-PAGE #5 JACK SHAFTBEARING REMOVAL. He does a great job on this write up,
I hope he reads this,. this guy has a lot of talent. If you research the item he covers you will be amazed the information he provides. The problem I had with this information was tapping the bearing to loosing the collar did not work for me.

TECH SECTION TRACK RX/RS APEX SHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENT done by LAKERCR covers the same procedure by removing the jack shaft by removal of chain case housing, this seems like a lot of unnecessary work to change this bearing.

So what do you guys think, does this make sense to replace j/s bearing this way

If you think this dumb I apologize.

TOMBOB

 

[YammyRX1]

I've changed the Jackshaft bearing both ways. It is very difficult to get it out without taking the chaincase apart but if you can do it and you are confident that the right side bearings and seals are good then that is the way to go. I seem to remember cutting a piece of 1" pipe in half so that it would rest over the jasckshaft like a saddle then I could use a pry bar against the frame to force it out from behind. The trick is that it takes a lot of heat on the aluminum collar around the bearing and it is best if one person can apply the heat while the other works on the bearing. Start soaking it with penetrating oil a few days before the job too. Don't be afraid to do the chaincase though- the hardest part is pressing the bearings but I used some 2" ABS drain pipe and a Black & Decker Workmate to slide them in. It doesn't take alot of force but you have to make sure they go in straight.

 

[dutchie]

A little tool that works great for me in getting that old hard grease out , toothbrush

Spray WD 40 into the bearing and then scrub with a old tooth brush , gets in all them tight spots and just wipe on a rag , cleans em like spanking new

I think any bearing grease will pretty well do if you change and clean once a year , I just use standard high heat truck bearing grease

 

[DelgatyXTX]

Not to hijack the thread but while we are on this topic have you guys noticed how much play you have between the jackshaft and driveshaft?

I have my sled up on the lift without a belt on it. I noticed that I can turn the secondary 3" (measured on outer diameter to fixed point) before it starts to turn the driveshaft. Then if I turn it backward same thing. I don't recall there being this much play between the two. Seems excessive to me. Normal?

[chain tension is set properly and secondary is solid on shaft]

Hi Mike,

If I recall correctly mine only rotates 1/2", maybe a full inch, but I could be wrong! I know I've had other sleds that had more play though. On my XP you could turn it, then you'd hear the chain tighten up and start to rotate. Also, are you sure it's not turning and not engaging the track for those few inches? The primary is bigger than the drivers by quite a bit so factoring in gear ratio in the chaincase and so on, 3" of circumerencial rotation might only be an inch on the drivers, and there should be some slop between the extro teeth and the windows.

I'll check tonight and let you know though just to be sure.

 

[dburrowes]

I noticed when i had my tank off that there was access to the brake side jackshaft bearing from the inside. has anyone tried to perform the bearing maintenance from this side.

 

[Woodrow]

I do this annually to prevent the need to replace the bearings. Did not see any pictures in the "sticky" so decided to add these below.... Need a dental tool and small/thin screwdriver to pry the seal off the bearing. Thouroughly clean the bearing with spraying WD-40 generously getting all the old grease and crap out of the bearing. Freshly pack the bearings with new bearing grease and replace the seals and re=assemble. Takes about 45 minutes to an hour to do the full job. I have seen some dirty and rusty bearings that need to be replaced, especially the driveshaft bearing. If you do this annually, you will never need to replace them.
First pics are the Jackshaft, and the second set of pics are the Driveshaft......

Could you show better pictures of the tools you used to get bearing seal out ??? I have removed the seals on my Rage jackshaft bearing, but my 2011 Vector has the same seal as at the top here. I am struggling getting behind the seal because of the angle, so want to see the "tools used"

 

[NS FX NYTRO]

A small flat screwdriver, like the ones used for sunglasses, work good. I have access to dental picks, they work good too.

 

[YammieMan]

I do this annually to prevent the need to replace the bearings. Did not see any pictures in the "sticky" so decided to add these below.... Need a dental tool and small/thin screwdriver to pry the seal off the bearing. Thouroughly clean the bearing with spraying WD-40 generously getting all the old grease and crap out of the bearing. Freshly pack the bearings with new bearing grease and replace the seals and re=assemble. Takes about 45 minutes to an hour to do the full job. I have seen some dirty and rusty bearings that need to be replaced, especially the driveshaft bearing. If you do this annually, you will never need to replace them.
First pics are the Jackshaft, and the second set of pics are the Driveshaft......

Great pics! I have an 06 apex, would like to do the same to mine. What kind if grease? Brand? Do you use and how do you apply it? Special grease gun? Thanks for the help

 

[mp5]

Great pics! I have an 06 apex, would like to do the same to mine. What kind if grease? Brand? Do you use and how do you apply it? Special grease gun? Thanks for the help

I use BelRay waterproof grease. Very tacky grease. Just don't over do it w new grease...too much is not good.