LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I think that this is an important one to report on...
How to change:
Remove secondary clutch, remove clip holding bearing onto frame.
Disassemble CHAINCASE and remove upper sprocket.
Block of wood and a sledgehammer... POUND that sucker out. Pound against the chaincase side of the shaft. There may be an excess quantity of red loctite holding the bearing onto the shaft and collar.
Now your bearing and collar may be stuck to the shaft. Put it in a vise with the bearing above, close the vise until it is touching the shaft, but NOT TIGHT. POUND the bearing down off the collar.
If you've got an 03, you will want to take this opportunity to install the updated locking collar system... You need to buy the collar and bolt both separately from the bearing. If your Yamaha dealer has a hard time finding the bearing, its on the FRAME page, the collar and nut are on the SECONDARY clutch page.
What I found with mine: with 5k miles, the bearing was SHOT, it turned VERY ROUGH. Remember that if this bearing goes, you could loose your jackshaft, secondary clutch, primary clutch, and even your FRAME. It is a real PITA to change, but definitely worth it.
How to change:
Remove secondary clutch, remove clip holding bearing onto frame.
Disassemble CHAINCASE and remove upper sprocket.
Block of wood and a sledgehammer... POUND that sucker out. Pound against the chaincase side of the shaft. There may be an excess quantity of red loctite holding the bearing onto the shaft and collar.
Now your bearing and collar may be stuck to the shaft. Put it in a vise with the bearing above, close the vise until it is touching the shaft, but NOT TIGHT. POUND the bearing down off the collar.
If you've got an 03, you will want to take this opportunity to install the updated locking collar system... You need to buy the collar and bolt both separately from the bearing. If your Yamaha dealer has a hard time finding the bearing, its on the FRAME page, the collar and nut are on the SECONDARY clutch page.
What I found with mine: with 5k miles, the bearing was SHOT, it turned VERY ROUGH. Remember that if this bearing goes, you could loose your jackshaft, secondary clutch, primary clutch, and even your FRAME. It is a real PITA to change, but definitely worth it.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
jack shaft bearing
i would not be useing a 300 doller part as a bearing driver as you can cause small cracks and or cause as slite bend in this costly part just take the other three bolts out of the chain case and remove it and the jack shaft and use a scrap pipe as a bearing driver as for the coller i removed it with my fingers and yes go for the 04 set up the threded caller and nut with the ressed washer. note that the nut has to go on the shaft before the shaft goes back in to the new bearing.
i would not be useing a 300 doller part as a bearing driver as you can cause small cracks and or cause as slite bend in this costly part just take the other three bolts out of the chain case and remove it and the jack shaft and use a scrap pipe as a bearing driver as for the coller i removed it with my fingers and yes go for the 04 set up the threded caller and nut with the ressed washer. note that the nut has to go on the shaft before the shaft goes back in to the new bearing.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
More than likely, you're going to have to be smashing at the shaft to get the bearing out. It would take one HELL of a sumo wrestler (like the ones who tighten the oil filters) to bend that shaft. Also, there is no way to get the shaft out in the chaincase direction, even if you remove the rest of the chaincase - its stuck in the bearing good, and if its not, then you've already destroyed the shaft (since your collar came off in your hands, your shaft was grinding itself on the inside of the bearing). Its also impossible to "fracture" the shaft because the MATERIAL is SOFT, *and* the block of wood that you have between the shaft and the hammer will absorb the shock.
Do you have any idea how much pounding it would take to hurt that shaft? You couldn't hurt it with a 10 ton hydraulic press.
Do you have any idea how much pounding it would take to hurt that shaft? You couldn't hurt it with a 10 ton hydraulic press.
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
LB, maybe you should write this up with pictures and have Mr. Sled post in the tech tips section. I agree with you that this is a really important maintenance item that people need to look into.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
lol, can't write it up with pictures without taking it apart again. Not going to do that.
RX-1 Liter
Expert
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- 2017 RMK 155"
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Lazy Bastard,
Nice post. I plan on doing it later this summer and I would have gotten real frustrated trying to get that bearing off.
Nice post. I plan on doing it later this summer and I would have gotten real frustrated trying to get that bearing off.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
jack shsft
my shaft has no run out and all of the materal is intacked. and ive taken two of these out in this maner. as there is a shoulder on the chain case side. and if the sleve is installed in the correct maner all it takes is a lite tap with a punch and a hamer to back it off of the shaft before removeing it from the sled. the 04 set up is far superior. and yes i did run a dial indcater on the shaft to check run out. the only place that materal was missing was on the sleve it self and posably the inside race of the bearing
i sill stand by mt statment that useing a $300.00 shaft for a bearing driver and risking posable failer down the road is no a veary wise thing to do. that compared to the cost of an old pcs of pipe hell even a new pcs of pipe and posable what another few minutes of time that i takes remeber hast makes waste.
my shaft has no run out and all of the materal is intacked. and ive taken two of these out in this maner. as there is a shoulder on the chain case side. and if the sleve is installed in the correct maner all it takes is a lite tap with a punch and a hamer to back it off of the shaft before removeing it from the sled. the 04 set up is far superior. and yes i did run a dial indcater on the shaft to check run out. the only place that materal was missing was on the sleve it self and posably the inside race of the bearing
i sill stand by mt statment that useing a $300.00 shaft for a bearing driver and risking posable failer down the road is no a veary wise thing to do. that compared to the cost of an old pcs of pipe hell even a new pcs of pipe and posable what another few minutes of time that i takes remeber hast makes waste.rx1forever
Expert
:shock: Wow I was not aware of the bearing issue, is it a problem on the 04s as well? you guys say that the 04 has a different set up than the 03, but is there an issue with the 04s bearing as well that I should be looking for? thanks for the info on this I am glad there are people who know there YAMAHAS !!!!!
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
There is not and never was any issue with the bearing. Its a regular maintenance item that you change all your bearings every 2 years. 03, 04, and probably 05 as well, all have the *same* bearing there.
BJ: If you can tap them out that lightly, then they weren't in very good. Pounding it towards the secondary as I have mentioned will either pop the collar out, allowing the shaft and bearing to be removed with less pounding, or if its stuck real good, it'll drive the whole bearing out. If its stuck so good that it drives the bearing out, then what you say makes no sense since there is no choice but to pound it out. So step 1: Pound on it. If the collar comes out, then you can push it out by hand, if not, there is no choice but to continue to pound on it.
BTW: removal of the rest of the chaincase is redundant either way since if the collar will come out, you can just remove the clip from the shaft on the chaincase side and slide it all the way through the bearing.
BJ: If you can tap them out that lightly, then they weren't in very good. Pounding it towards the secondary as I have mentioned will either pop the collar out, allowing the shaft and bearing to be removed with less pounding, or if its stuck real good, it'll drive the whole bearing out. If its stuck so good that it drives the bearing out, then what you say makes no sense since there is no choice but to pound it out. So step 1: Pound on it. If the collar comes out, then you can push it out by hand, if not, there is no choice but to continue to pound on it.
BTW: removal of the rest of the chaincase is redundant either way since if the collar will come out, you can just remove the clip from the shaft on the chaincase side and slide it all the way through the bearing.
Ed L
Veteran
Hey LB or who ever has constructive input on this subject. I am putting 2 RX-1 motors with the driveline intact in my Dunebuggy, this includes the jackshaft alum. bulkhead right to the driveshaft, I already have the motors (sleds) one is a 2003 the other an 2004. The 03 has a different bearing setup that looks to be in good condition and the 04 has some play between the bearing inner race and the coller: this allows the shaft and coller to spin when i hold the inner race of the bearing. Both are wrecked sleds that had under 1000 miles. Now the questions
On the 03- Should I replace the bearing setup to the 04 setup or leave it alone as it seems good?
If I update to the 04 setup is the shaft the same for 03 and 04 do I just replace the collor, nut and bearing?
On the 04- If I tighten the nut does it expand the coller for a better fit to the inner race? the bearing again seems good Thanks for the advice -Ed
The car I am putting these into can be seen at http://www.geocities.com/fearless7and7 this will happen over the winter as I am driving the car as it is through the summer.
On the 03- Should I replace the bearing setup to the 04 setup or leave it alone as it seems good?
If I update to the 04 setup is the shaft the same for 03 and 04 do I just replace the collor, nut and bearing?
On the 04- If I tighten the nut does it expand the coller for a better fit to the inner race? the bearing again seems good Thanks for the advice -Ed
The car I am putting these into can be seen at http://www.geocities.com/fearless7and7 this will happen over the winter as I am driving the car as it is through the summer.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah, you definitely want to update the 03 side to 04. Tightening the nut on the 04 will bring it together nicely. The 03 and 04 bearing is exactly the same, the only difference is the collar and nut.
Eeh... your website has been deactivated due to inactivity.
Eeh... your website has been deactivated due to inactivity.
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