greenmntpass
Expert
I've got an RTX and wife has Vector. She is learning how to stand and ride but bars are too low for her. What are you guys using for risers for Vectors. Probably looking 2 to 3 inch riser.
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
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- 1,151
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- 54
- Location
- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
i am using the ROX pivoting risers. They offer more adjustablility than standard risers. Tehy also make some anti-vibrating ones too but they are pricey. Here's a link to the ones I am using. http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/ ... cat_id=268
By the way a 2" riser is the max I believe you can go without changing your cables.
By the way a 2" riser is the max I believe you can go without changing your cables.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
I had small offset motorcycle risers on mine that put the bars about 1 1/2" forward and 2" up. I switched over to the Nytro bar and riser setup. That puts the grips 42mm forward and 88 mm up from the Vector position. (about 1 3/4" forward and 3 1/4" up.) You need longer cables to use the Nytro stuff but not with a 2" riser.
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YamahaTom
Newbie
2 in riser
I did a 2 in riser on my 05 vector and no problems with cables.
Only one thing is now your hands get cold from the wind.
I need to add hand guards.
Anyone have suggestions?
Thanks
I did a 2 in riser on my 05 vector and no problems with cables.
Only one thing is now your hands get cold from the wind.
I need to add hand guards.
Anyone have suggestions?
Thanks
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,151
- Age
- 54
- Location
- Chassell Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
I added the powermadd guards with the extensions and mirrors on mine. You need to run a low windshield or else the handguards hit the windshield on extreme turns. I hardly ever use the handwarmers anymore with this setup.
pro116
Lifetime Member
How tall is she I had two different riser on my sled the first one was a 2" block riser I'm 5' 10" and it was too low plus when you put block riser in the handle bars keep moving farther back over the seat depending on how high you go so than you have to sit back farther and you can't corner as good.The second one I put on was a 4" pivot riser and that one was perfect It moved mmy handle bars about 10" farther forward than when I had the block riser on so you could still hug the tank for sharp corners.I would go with a 2" pivot riser if she is under 5' 8".As far as cable clearance I had no problem with the 4" pivot riser beacuse you get alittle more slack when you move them forwar but a s far as a block riser I think you could go about 2" beacause of the clearence.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
I agree with pro116 about the block risers. The Vector bars are almost too far back as it is and straight block risers bring them even farther back, although they are higher. A 2" block is actually less than 2" rise due to the steering shaft angle. Offset or pivoting risers are a big help.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
RSVECTORFREAK said:i am using the ROX pivoting risers. They offer more adjustablility than standard risers. Tehy also make some anti-vibrating ones too but they are pricey. Here's a link to the ones I am using. http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/ ... cat_id=268
By the way a 2" riser is the max I believe you can go without changing your cables.
Same setup here and love them!
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
twomorestrokes said:I had small offset motorcycle risers on mine that put the bars about 1 1/2" forward and 2" up. I switched over to the Nytro bar and riser setup. That puts the grips 42mm forward and 88 mm up from the Vector position. (about 1 3/4" forward and 3 1/4" up.) You need longer cables to use the Nytro stuff but not with a 2" riser.
Did you have to go with a different cable/wiring setup with the Nytro bars and riser?
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
Tfin said:Did you have to go with a different cable/wiring setup with the Nytro bars and riser?
Yes. The Nytro wiring harness plugs are down by the valve cover instead of up by the bars so I had to cut all of the wires and solder in extentions to get all of the plugs out of sight. The alternative would be to buy the Nytro control blocks that have longer harnesses, but I saved a couple hundred by what I did. The wires are run inside conduit anyway so heat shrink should protect the splices. The Vector cables are still on at this point, but they are tight on tight turns, especially the e brake cable, so I am going to change those with the right cables. The brake hose could probably work as is but the Nytro hose is slightly longer. The cables are cheap compared to the rest of the cost at under $20 each. Luckily I found a couple pieces from another member, (as well as a lot of information) or I'd be at close to $500 at retail even with not purchasing the control blocks. Factory stuff is crazy so search for used bars or something if you are going to do the swap. Just the grips and hooks retail at $250. Same bars as the Apex, etc.
Tfin
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks for the info, and I'll keep my eyes open over the summer since its a change I'd like to make as well.
When you get a chance, would you mind posting some pics of your setup?
When you get a chance, would you mind posting some pics of your setup?
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
Sure. When I have a camera available I'll get some. It's a cool setup if the bar end up where you want it, as it is not adjustable. Below is a photo that the member I bought the riser base from emailed to me of the wire connections under the hood after his swap. I made mine look the same. The plastic cover is a Nytro piece as well.
Attachments
vector_1
Extreme
twomorestrokes said:Tfin said:Did you have to go with a different cable/wiring setup with the Nytro bars and riser?
Luckily I found a couple pieces from another member, (as well as a lot of information) or I'd be at close to $500 at retail even with not purchasing the control blocks.
That would be me
I did want the OE setup, but after doing so decided to use a PowerMadd riser(4") + the articulating riser(2") with the NYTRO bars and ends. Using this setup, I was able to retain the stock bar cover for an almost OE look.
I have some pics at home that I sent to VECTOR when I was advising him on his project. If you wanted to go ALL NYTRO parts(wiring blocks, bars, riser, cables, brake line, etc) the tally is over $1000, but this can be done for much less as others here have demonstrated.
PM me if you want me to email you the pics of my setup
vector_1
Extreme
twomorestrokes said:Sure. When I have a camera available I'll get some. It's a cool setup if the bar end up where you want it, as it is not adjustable. Below is a photo that the member I bought the riser base from emailed to me of the wire connections under the hood after his swap. I made mine look the same. The plastic cover is a Nytro piece as well.
Hey I recognize that sled!!! lol.
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