TurboTime
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I have post this topic before but I have yet to have anyone provide a valid fix to the problem.
My steering column is loose (right & left not back and forth) which is a big nuisance on the trails. I have everything striped from the sled as I am doing PM work on other items, i.e. exhaust, suspension, drive shaft, etc.
Any ideas on potential fixes is much appreciated. I have attached a schem of the steering column. My guess is that parts 26-30 have the most impact to the sloppy steering but not sure. Do I need a special tool to remove the universal joints?
Thanks,
KI
My steering column is loose (right & left not back and forth) which is a big nuisance on the trails. I have everything striped from the sled as I am doing PM work on other items, i.e. exhaust, suspension, drive shaft, etc.
Any ideas on potential fixes is much appreciated. I have attached a schem of the steering column. My guess is that parts 26-30 have the most impact to the sloppy steering but not sure. Do I need a special tool to remove the universal joints?
Thanks,
KI
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170plus
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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mine is loose at bushings 18 on top and 18 on bottom(bottom worse) and 27 on the side by the chaincase,18 bushings are actually starting to squeek with every move of handlebars(06 rtx 9000 miles)

turbine man
VIP Member
My bushings are loose also, found the bottom steering post woren also the all squeek badly found the grease in them to almost dry turned to power. Changing all of them, going to try never-seize.
I drilled an taped all steering arm bushing an put in grease fittings. Now I grease them all time.

kinger
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When I did my RX1 90% of my slop was not the column but the spindle bushings in the spindles. I repalced with nylatron and it eliminated almost all of it. There is still about a 1/4" but I think that is inhearent in the system.

KnappAttack
24X ISR World Drag Racing Champion
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
I tighten all my sleds up. Pull the seat, tank and get at the bushings. I take the steel bushing spacers and remove .015 off them. Then I take the plastic bushing and set them on a flat surface and use emery cloth on a flat surface to remove .0075 per bushing, two plastic bushings together add up to the .015 that you have taken off the steel bushing, and you now have tight steering. It makes them much nicer to ride. Don't take off anymore than that or the bars get hard to turn with stiction. It looks like part 18 and 23 on the steering column.

kinger
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How does that do anything? Asssuming you take off the proper amounts what the difference? It will still clamp on to the post. I dont get it.

turbine man
VIP Member
Mike this is a little of the subject.,i am stretching my 07 gt to a 136 are you still liking the 137 xt and did you see any speed pickup, are the studs enough to ride hard thru icey corners, safely, also looking foward to getting rid of the normal studs we use, iknow i need to change drivers also. Also may consider a 136 corba studded of course. thanks Jeff
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
Turbine man, I think your on the wrong thread? this thread is about loose stearing.
Anyway: How many miles on these sleds with slopy steering? Thanks
Anyway: How many miles on these sleds with slopy steering? Thanks

KnappAttack
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kinger, It takes the play and slop from the steering column and bushings. It only takes 500 miles or so for them to loosen (wear). Once I do that, it seems to be good for quite some time. Once you take it apart and look at it, it will make sense.
turbine man, I love the 137" iceripper XT sharp stud. I bought another one for my other sled. It is no faster than a stock unstudded track, but it is 5 MPH faster than a track with 144 conventional studs in it. The lightened, holed clips hold snow and greatly reduce the slide wear. Much nicer than the solid clips I ran last year. I would assume you saw the pictures I posted on it. If not do a search for Iceripper XT with KnappAttack as the author, you'll see what I mean. 1200 miles and very pleased. I'll never stud my trail sled again, but use this style track. Perfect for my style of riding.
turbine man, I love the 137" iceripper XT sharp stud. I bought another one for my other sled. It is no faster than a stock unstudded track, but it is 5 MPH faster than a track with 144 conventional studs in it. The lightened, holed clips hold snow and greatly reduce the slide wear. Much nicer than the solid clips I ran last year. I would assume you saw the pictures I posted on it. If not do a search for Iceripper XT with KnappAttack as the author, you'll see what I mean. 1200 miles and very pleased. I'll never stud my trail sled again, but use this style track. Perfect for my style of riding.
DC5
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
KnappAttack said:turbine man, I love the 137" iceripper XT sharp stud. I bought another one for my other sled. It is no faster than a stock unstudded track, but it is 5 MPH faster than a track with 144 conventional studs in it.
My Attack has gone 117.5mph on Radar with 144 studs. So will yours do 122.5mph?
TurboTime
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KnappAttack said:I tighten all my sleds up. Pull the seat, tank and get at the bushings. I take the steel bushing spacers and remove .015 off them. Then I take the plastic bushing and set them on a flat surface and use emery cloth on a flat surface to remove .0075 per bushing, two plastic bushings together add up to the .015 that you have taken off the steel bushing, and you now have tight steering. It makes them much nicer to ride. Don't take off anymore than that or the bars get hard to turn with stiction. It looks like part 18 and 23 on the steering column.
Thanks for the input, will work on it this weekend.
Much appreciated
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