Loud bang/clunk when using the brake

[kkokko]

Hey gents, looking for some advice. I have a 2017 Sidewinder with 9000 miles on it. On my last ride I noticed when I hit the brake hard at above 50MPH I felt and heard a loud bang or a clunk. I also feel some vibration in the chassis when applying the brake. This is something new and wondering if i should bring it in to have it looked at (I have the extended 5 year warranty) or if it is just the tensioner screw problem/chain slap that is making the noise. ANy easy way to check/test this without tearing the sled apart?

Also wondering if I need to do a total drive bearing overhaul for the 2021 riding season? Your help and expertise is appreciated and thanks for your time.

 

[Alsim]

Hey gents, looking for some advice. I have a 2017 Sidewinder with 9000 miles on it. On my last ride I noticed when I hit the brake hard at above 50MPH I felt and heard a loud bang or a clunk. I also feel some vibration in the chassis when applying the brake. This is something new and wondering if i should bring it in to have it looked at (I have the extended 5 year warranty) or if it is just the tensioner screw problem/chain slap that is making the noise. ANy easy way to check/test this without tearing the sled apart?

Also wondering if I need to do a total drive bearing overhaul for the 2021 riding season? Your help and expertise is appreciated and thanks for your time.

Sounds like drive shaft bearing in your galiper

 

[Turboflash]

Agree. Sounds like the bearing on brake side has failed completely. Track shaft is banging back and forth which is what you are hearing. Need major rebuild. Better get it checked out before riding anymore.

 

[Motorhead]

Multiple possibilities, but if you heard that, it is probably screwed.
Could be most of what you assume.
When that caliper bearing fails or wears into the shaft too much, many other components could also receive some damage. Many have reported needing much more then just the bearing and shaft replacement if not caught early during a maintenance check.

Quick checks, well not really.
Hang sled, loosen track, check for ANY play on caliper side of cog shaft.

Chain tension check. Remove muffler and loosen tensioner lock nut without turning the bolt.
See how many turns it takes to bottom it out hand tight. Should be no more then 1.5. My chain has stretched 3 times in 6300 miles, but that did not make any noise on mine because it does have spring tension on chain even after stretch, but you are correct about chain slap during braking with too loose tension bolt. It will damage internal case by allowing the chain to rub where it shouldn’t.

If you have time and spot, have at it!

If not, dealer should check it out.

I would take 10 minutes and at least put my hands and eyes on the belt and clutches to make sure nothing is unusual there first.

 

[Sledroll]

Multiple possibilities, but if you heard that, it is probably screwed.
Could be most of what you assume.
When that caliper bearing fails or wears into the shaft too much, many other components could also receive some damage. Many have reported needing much more then just the bearing and shaft replacement if not caught early during a maintenance check.

Quick checks, well not really.
Hang sled, loosen track, check for ANY play on caliper side of cog shaft.

Chain tension check. Remove muffler and loosen tensioner lock nut without turning the bolt.
See how many turns it takes to bottom it out hand tight. Should be no more then 1.5. My chain has stretched 3 times in 6300 miles, but that did not make any noise on mine because it does have spring tension on chain even after stretch, but you are correct about chain slap during braking with too loose tension bolt. It will damage internal case by allowing the chain to rub where it shouldn’t.

If you have time and spot, have at it!

If not, dealer should check it out.

I would take 10 minutes and at least put my hands and eyes on the belt and clutches to make sure nothing is unusual there first.

If the track is toooo loose could it be the slotted front axle ?
I had a similar clunking on braking and tightened my track , and it disappeared .
This happened right after I had the drive axle replaced with new bearings.
This sled likes a tight track !

 

[Fleecer]

Imo, at 9k miles you should put all 4 new bearings. The upper and lower chaincase as well as driveshaft and jackshaft.

 

[Turboflash]

Agree w Fleecer but don't use the cheap China ones the factory puts in. Best ball bearings come from Japan, Germany, France. NOT China.
Use NTN, NSK, SKF, Koyo, Nachi, FAG, etc. Not Peer (China).

 

[Sevey]

Hard to know the “clunk” sound you describe - but like the earlier comment, if the center shock is gone, and / or the track is too loose the front skid frame arms can bang against the cross shaft

keep us posted
Ms

 

[kkokko]

Thanks to you all, sorry for the delay in my response. I have tore apart the chain case side and the chain is not totally tight with the adjuster bolt bottomed out, so i am guessing that i need a new chain and sprockets since it has stretched that far. I guess that is what you get when you tune it to 270 HP and have 200 picks in it so it pulls like a mother!! I will most likely buy all new bearings and change them all out, not sure this is within my capability....Appreciate the help gentlemen. Not sure i understand the shock on the front of the skid comment? How would this make the noise? I will take off the secondary now and see what it looks like behind there.

 

[Sevey]

Because of the slide action skid, the front arm is not anchored to the front of the tunnel. The arm is suspended on the cross shaft. If the front shock is gone, there is no pressure to keep the front arm tight on the cross shaft and it will clunk when hitting bumps.

May not be applicable in your case
Ms