M-20 with 9 tooth extrovert driver problem

bigreis

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2007 Apex RTX
2009 Nytro XTX
I just finished installing my new track drive with 9 tooth extrovert drivers (purchased from Ulmer Racing) and after bolting the M-20 back in, I was shocked to find that the teeth on the drivers are hitting the front suspension torque arm! Has anyone run into this problem before?

The only solution I can see is to drill some new mounting holes for the front arm to move it back about 3/8 of an inch. Do you think that doing this will screw up the suspension geometry too much?
 
i think when the suspension compresses far enough they will hit the rails too, probably a lost cause.
 
bigreis, I had the same problem with my warrior. I cut the drivers down to get about an 1/8th inch of clearance to the cross shaft. Irun my track with about an 1 1/2 of free play with no issues. elton
 
I cut my drivers enough for clearence as well. This was the suggestion from Fast and no issues so far.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. For the guys that have cut the drivers down, how much did you end up cutting off and what did you use to cut teeth off with? Finally, have you run into any clearance issues with the rails and the drivers?
 
bigreis, I didn't want to pull the drive axle again , so i used a screwdriver type gasket scraper . I would heat the scaper and it would go right through the nobes . you can take off enough for the axel to spin without hitting and maybe a 1/16th or so extra and you will be good to go. I have not had any problems with the rails hitting the drivers, and i did this mod. three years ago .Elton
 
In the instructions that came with my new m20 it said move the mounts back for exrovets.
 
I used a multi tool with a 1/2 round blade and took off only enough to clear the shaft by 1/2". Not perfect or pretty but it works and no ratcheting so far.

I bought my M-20 used and the online instructions make no mention of moving the mounting locations for extrovert drivers. Wish I knew that before I installed and cut the drivers
 
Yamahatd they tell you to move the front mount back. .95 when you mounted your did you use the stock front mount bolt hole?
 
SnowBandit -

Did you move just the front mounting holes back, or did the rear mounts get moved back too? Any chance you could post or email me pictures of where your mounting locations are?
 
Well I am having issues with mine right now. According to the instructions you move the front bolt back .950 inches. Then you have to do some work with the rails. If I can get mine in I will scan the new instructions in and email them to you if you want. Which I did and now I can not get the rear bolts to line up. I have a hard time getting the rear mount to fit inside the brackets on the sled. Very tight.
 
SnowBandit -

I would greatly appreciate any information that you can provide! I hope the install goes OK for you...
 
bigreis said:
SnowBandit -

Did you move just the front mounting holes back, or did the rear mounts get moved back too? Any chance you could post or email me pictures of where your mounting locations are?

I just purchased a new M20. My sled has 9T extrovert's and I'm reading the directions wondering the same thing. Did you guys move both front and rear swing arm locations back .95" or just the front? If you only move the front, that puts the mounting locations at roughly 24.5" apart. The print shows them needing to be 25.5" apart. Am I reading this correctly?

Fast is on off-season hours now and they were closed on Friday when I tried to call.

Any help is appreciated,

Joe
 
I have run m10 with 9 tooths. we had the same problem with pro actions as they have the same geometry. The larger bar on the upper mount requires a bit more to be removed than the pro action.

remove 1/4 from the tips on the lathe when you true the drivers, you did true the drivers, I have never found a set to be round I did the sheet rock knife trick on my first set. Dont worry about cutting the tips. The track is never that high on the drivers.
 


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