machining question for skidoo wheels 503190802

[justinator]

I know .060 needs to be taken off for correct alignment of the wheels between the lugs. On the skid of a 07rtx, is it the piece thats part of my lower shock mount on the inside wheels that needs to be cut to push the wheels towards the shock to keep it away from the inner lugs. Just wanted to be sure, I never took that part of my skid apart and wasnt sure what it was going to look like. TIA!!

 

[yamadog1]

wheels

i took 060 thou off but i think you could take .070 and it would be better,
as far as the bracket i machined the back side to match front wheel, don't
know if anyone else has done that so not sure if the guys would approve.

 

[ReX]

You might want to take a look at the new 08 Yamaha idler wheels also.

Machining the skid for 6205 bearings is the ultimate solution (for durability), but the 08 idlers might work almost as well, keep the weight down, and be simpler & cheaper.

The correct amount to remove per side is 1/2 of 3mm (6205 bearings are 15mm wide, 6005 bearings are 12mm wide). This works out to 0.060" per side.

Keep in mind with the 07/08 RTX you also need to add custom spacers to one side of the front idlers to make it work.

 

[justinator]

You might want to take a look at the new 08 Yamaha idler wheels also.

Machining the skid for 6205 bearings is the ultimate solution (for durability), but the 08 idlers might work almost as well, keep the weight down, and be simpler & cheaper.

The correct amount to remove per side is 1/2 of 3mm (6205 bearings are 15mm wide, 6005 bearings are 12mm wide). This works out to 0.060" per side.

Keep in mind with the 07/08 RTX you also need to add custom spacers to one side of the front idlers to make it work.

The custom spacers your talking about, do they go between the wheel and the locking collar with the set screw or somewhere else?? Does only the shock mount need to be cut or do I need to cut the collar too?? I didnt know a spacer was needed, thanks

 

[ReX]

Have a look at the attached PDF written by garserio. It explains most of the options.

I went with a slightly different approach that allowed me to use standard spacers ordered from McMaster Carr instead of custom machining them.

Have a look at his document and then imagine the following:

• As he does, remove 0.060" from each side of the pivot arm bracket.
• Then, in a lathe, remove 0.120" from each collar. This 0.120" is removed so that it increases the length of the section that sits inside the bearing.
• Then when installing the shaft assembly, complete with idlers and the modified parts, install spacers on the very outside that are 0.120" thick to push the collars towards the center.
• Now when everything is tightened up, there is a metal to metal load clamping the bearing in place as well as a full support piece inside each bearing. The only challenge is getting the 0.120" spacers installed. In reality, since I was looking for a quick solution, I used spacers that has the right ID and an acceptable OD, but were only 0.040" (I think) thick. This meant that I used 3 spacers on each side and this does make it a little more difficult to assemble (since they want to fall off). Once it is assembled it doesn't matter if you use a single custom 0.120" spacer or 3 standard 0.040" spacers.