Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
The "Signal" circuit feeds power to the Brake Light, Tail Light, Reverse Beeper on (ER model), the Display Unit, the Speed Sensor, Oil Level Switch, Fuel Sender and ultimately into the CDI module. The fuse is right downstream from, the primary relay. If the fuse blew, it was overloaded downstream, so that rules out the primary relay.
Did you check the wires to the tail light? That often gets rubbed in between the seat and tunnel. Same for Brake light wire (most-likely in the same cable/harness)
Is it possible that you tapped into the "Signal" wire for an accessory (e.g. heated face shield?) That could blow the fuse or cause other circuits to work incorrectly. A lot of people do not realize how much the face shield load throws these other critical engine function circuits off let alone what happens if the accessory shorts.
Did you check the wires to the tail light? That often gets rubbed in between the seat and tunnel. Same for Brake light wire (most-likely in the same cable/harness)
Is it possible that you tapped into the "Signal" wire for an accessory (e.g. heated face shield?) That could blow the fuse or cause other circuits to work incorrectly. A lot of people do not realize how much the face shield load throws these other critical engine function circuits off let alone what happens if the accessory shorts.
apriliarxv450
Newbie
I dont have any accesories on the sled. I looked at the taillight wiring and all looked fine, the lights still work fine and the sled seems to be running fine again...would a bad hand warmer blow this fuse some how? Hopefully the computer is not harmed. i dont really trust the sled until I figure it out, I dont want to have to get pulled home. Anyone have a ECU for sale??? or know were I can get one, ebay is clean out of them...
I never looked myself but can the warmers be unplugged if they can do that and see what you got. Your going to have to use a process of elimination here.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
If it is fine now, maybe you moved a wire away from the point it was shorting. With all the components operating correctly, that tells me that it was most-likely not a component failure. That only leaves the wires, which you apparently have repositioned in your search. The grip warmers are fed from the CDI unit. If they are working now, I suspect they again were not the problem. Did you inspect the wiring at the fuel sender unit? This was one other person's problem. The mice got at the wires. If it happens again, you may want to consider reinspecting all wires that are near a metal component.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
I think like Len, something in a wiring harness. Especially now that it is working again
I know you checked, but I can tell you these wiring issues are difficult to see. Use a very bright light some 1.5 reading glasses, and roll and twist the harness moving along as you inspect evey inch. See something that looks fishy, peel off the black tape and take a closer look. You can always retape it.
I know you checked, but I can tell you these wiring issues are difficult to see. Use a very bright light some 1.5 reading glasses, and roll and twist the harness moving along as you inspect evey inch. See something that looks fishy, peel off the black tape and take a closer look. You can always retape it.
I thought he said the grips were not working. Now they are working????? If the warning light for the warmer was coming on then I would say it has to be that circuit. Take a really good look by the steering post again.
apriliarxv450
Newbie
No, sorry I mean the snowmobile runs and the guages work and lights, the warning light is still on and the warmers still dont work, I will check out what you guys have suggested, thanks again.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
You may want to do a resistance check on the grips. I do not recall seeing the result of that. An open or a zero ohm reading is a problem. Depending where you read them and the type you have, a 1.5 to 8 ohms could be o.k. Given the fuse holding now, I suspect that you would not see zero ohms. However you could see an open. If they read o.k., then your back to looking for a short in the wire; which you currently do not have (i.e. not blowing fuses.). But the prevoius short could have caused an open in the wire or close connector. If the grip heaters check o.k. and the connections and wires are good, then you are down to the CDI Unit. I suspect you could ckeck that by looking for voltage at the grip heater's harness connector (CDI side). with the grips set to high and engine running. Before I put in a new CDI, I would either find the cause of the short or verify there was no problem in the grip circuit. A long with a good wire inpection from the CDI to the grips, above is how I woiuld do that. anything less and you could damage a new CDI unit.
apriliarxv450
Newbie
ok so I checked some things over tonight. I've literally checked every wire on the sled and have found nothing rubbed or broken, I replaced the relays, one at a time, hooked the hand warmers up one at a time, unpluged them all together, and checked for voltage when the sled was running(no volts----- when the engine would crank there would be around 8-10volts when the sled starts drops to nothing??? odd) and still the same check engine light.... It has to be the cdi unit!!!! Its blown the sig fuse, lost all throttle response, lost the guages, lost the lights and have all since come back but not the hand warmers, I know I'll get out on the trails and it will die on me so I'm going to find a used cdi and see how that goes....What do you guys think??
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Given the conditions you currently have (good resistance at the grips warmers, no apparent damage to wires and no voltage to the grip warmers from the CDI unit) I too would suspect the CDI unit. Did you do a resistance check on the Grip Warmers at the CDI unit's connector. This would check to see if you had an open in a wire, just for a double check on the grip warmer circuits collectively. When you replace the CDI unit, please let us know how you make out. Maybe you can try a buddy's? Given that the circuits have been all checked, I would be willing to try it with mine.
apriliarxv450
Newbie
Can anyone tell me how to check the resistance on the hand grips. I have a multi meter and checked them how I thought you should and got 0 resistance or ohms. Thanks
rxsteve
Newbie
If you got 0 ohms of resistance (and you checked them correctly), your hand warmers are shorted, and could be the cause of your problems...
To check the resistance, turn the DVOM (multi meter) to ohms, on a 200 ohm scale. make sure you have your leads in the right holes in the DVOM, and touch them together to make sure you get 0. Then go to the connector for the grips, and touch one lead on each wire. If they are too close together, push a paper clip or pin into the connector and touch the leads to them. And as Len Todd sayed, 1.5 to 8 ohms is good.
To check the resistance, turn the DVOM (multi meter) to ohms, on a 200 ohm scale. make sure you have your leads in the right holes in the DVOM, and touch them together to make sure you get 0. Then go to the connector for the grips, and touch one lead on each wire. If they are too close together, push a paper clip or pin into the connector and touch the leads to them. And as Len Todd sayed, 1.5 to 8 ohms is good.
rxsteve
Newbie
If you're still thinking a cdi, there's one here...
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=429617#429617
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=429617#429617
apriliarxv450
Newbie
okay guys got rid of the check engine engine light!!!! I figured out (with your guys help) that the left hand hand warmer was fried, okay not a big deal I just hooked up the other and will get a new one asap. Now my problem is I have no throttle. I revs fine to about 6,000 then just completely dies out and if you keep feathering the throttle it will back fire and gradually build up speed. This problem started the same time that the handwarmer blew the "sig" fuse. Its not giving me any engine warning lights... I unhooked the TORS and didnt make any difference. Any more Ideas??????? This thing is just falling apart on me
apriliarxv450
Newbie
Oh yeah and I even replace the CDI box and still the same thing....
